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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

I plan on deadening the roof under the headliner.

fwiw, I read a tech article recently on sound deadening, the gist of which suggested deadening about 25% of a given panel as 100% "locks" everything together noise wise and makes it worse.

article

Wait...what? Maybe I read that wrong, but I'm not sure what it means to "deaden 25% of a panel as 100%." :confused:
 
He's saying complete coverage with deadner will turn it into more of a drum surface.
I don't agree completely, as I've found the 50 to 75% coverage works with older vehicles nicely without adding a huge amount of weight. The chief thing is any large open panel area, outer door skins for example make the biggest improvement.
Going between ridges and bracing, slightly covering the brace, will also help without adding thickness to the floor covering.
On our trucks, I think the best method for the floor is urethane bed liner and use the adhesive deadner on the firewall, doors, and side panel.
They make some light weight stuff that works well on the roof. Also the foil bubble insulator attached to the roof with 3M contact cement works very well on the roof and provides pretty decent heat rejection.
 
He's saying complete coverage with deadner will turn it into more of a drum surface.
I don't agree completely, as I've found the 50 to 75% coverage works with older vehicles nicely without adding a huge amount of weight. The chief thing is any large open panel area, outer door skins for example make the biggest improvement.
Going between ridges and bracing, slightly covering the brace, will also help without adding thickness to the floor covering.
On our trucks, I think the best method for the floor is urethane bed liner and use the adhesive deadner on the firewall, doors, and side panel.
They make some light weight stuff that works well on the roof. Also the foil bubble insulator attached to the roof with 3M contact cement works very well on the roof and provides pretty decent heat rejection.

Thanks for clarifying. I had read it wrong.
 
I plan on deadening the roof under the headliner.

fwiw, I read a tech article recently on sound deadening, the gist of which suggested deadening about 25% of a given panel as 100% "locks" everything together noise wise and makes it worse.

article
Oooh thanks for that link! I still have my rear floor and headliner to do and I'd like to replace the original insulation under the carpet.
 
Oh yeah, here's my breakage from Dixie national forest last weekend. Last night I took off to walgreens and the tire carrier swung open while I was driving. I saw it in my mirror, pulled over and tied it shut with some paracord.

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The wife approved a new set of tires for Daisy. With winter coming and trips up to the snowy mountains planned, the grabbers have got to go. Last year we slid off a road and were stopped from sliding down a 30' bank by a VW sized boulder. The grabbers are in worse shape now than they were last year so I'm getting serious about a set of 37" all terrains. If I ditch the grabbers right now I can sell them and recoup some of the cost. I've got 6 of them, i could get a few hundred bucks for them. They're getting louder all the time and a 37" A/T would probably be really nice on the highway. A set of 37s is looking like it'll cost $1600-1800 so that should help.

I've been looking at BFGoodrich KO2s and Cooper ST Maxxs mostly. The coopers are a couple hundred bucks cheaper for a set, otherwise they fairly similar. I think the cooper looks a little more aggressive, I've read that it actually handles mud pretty well. I'm digging some of these new hybrid off road tires lately like the nitro ridge grappler, cooper St Maxxs, toyo r/t and Goodyear duratracs. A lot of them seem like a more versatile tire than I'm running now, and versatility has been kind of a theme here. If anyone has any input I'd gladly listen.

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A few of my buds run the bfg and they like em. I run the grabber at2 but I don't think those come that big.. I love em though, best tires ive used thus far.
 
I will never buy another set of BFG tires for a full-size truck again. I put E rated A/T's on mine and within a couple years they were low enough I chose to replace them. I would look at the Coopers long before the BFG's. Granted mine weighs a bit more than yours, but we run similar trails of loose, sharp rocks and that chewed the hell out of the A/T's. I would highly recommend the M55's for durability, traction, handling characteristics, but the price has gone from crazy to ridiculous/stupid since I bought mine. Lance just put a set of Cooper ST Maxx's on his Suburban to replace some not-so-old, junked-out, E-rated BFG KM2's. He loves them so far. Didn't take a bunch of weight to balance either.
 
I love the duratracs. Bought three separate sets fer different trucks. I know the set I out on my 2500 burb is still going with plenty of traction and those have bout 20-25k on them. At this rate will probably see 35-40 before they need replaced. Granted this is a highway hauler not a crawler.
 
I hate to say this but I have had a set of Bfg long trails on my DD frontier and have over 60000 miles on them and they still have a ways to go. I doubt they would do well off-road and they are not available in plus sizes but I've only broken them loose twice and once I was trying. If I needed a good all around tire and the came in 33's id be tempted. For now I just had to buy a tire to move the Jimmy and the cheapest I could find at the time was a grabber at2. The rest of what are on it are duratrac and I like the look of those but they look like leather now and are expensive to replace for not having a mileage warranty. Just curious what the average life span/miles someone can expect out of them.
 
I vote either way. I have ran both. both have good qualities. I liked the Cooper's a little more for any mud. BFG's did better in the snow.
 

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