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The restoration/modification of Daisy.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
i want mine driving by the end of this year. maiden voyage is planned to be mojave rd in april next year. then hopefully blazer bash next year.
that axle will work great under my truck.
thanks Muddysub.
i'll get it cleaned up some tomorrow, ive got the hub socket for it too.
thought i'd give you guys a little update on Daisy, its been a while.
this weekend I'll be working on my dana 60. cutting off the old shock mounts, maybe welding on new ones and i'll at least get the hubs off to get them machined. after its bolted onto the truck, i'll worry about steering.
my Trail Tech Fab transfer case adapter showed up today! that won't get installed/welded for a while yet, gotta get the engine/trans/t-case up into the truck first to figure out where to clock i and how to build a crossmember.
it wouldn't be a project if everything was done right the first time. i've changed my mind too many times already on a few things and made some decisions i wish i hadn't. so i decided to put one issue to bed for good, the engine. i ordered a 5.3L from BD Turnkey engines up in Reno. it'll be ready to ship in october and installed ASAP. looking at the engine torn apart in my garage and the mountain of wiring i'd have to sort through to make it work, was keeping me up at night. so at this point i'm only keeping the transmission from that C2500 i tore apart. shameful, i know. that truck has served as one hell of a learning experience for me. it all seemed like a good idea at the time and turned out not to be. a 5.3l is a permanent solution where the '99 vortec engine was always planned to be a temporary solution until i could do something better.
so with that said, Daisy will soon have a 5.3/4l80e/np241 drivetrain.
this weekend I'll be working on my dana 60. cutting off the old shock mounts, maybe welding on new ones and i'll at least get the hubs off to get them machined. after its bolted onto the truck, i'll worry about steering.
my Trail Tech Fab transfer case adapter showed up today! that won't get installed/welded for a while yet, gotta get the engine/trans/t-case up into the truck first to figure out where to clock i and how to build a crossmember.
it wouldn't be a project if everything was done right the first time. i've changed my mind too many times already on a few things and made some decisions i wish i hadn't. so i decided to put one issue to bed for good, the engine. i ordered a 5.3L from BD Turnkey engines up in Reno. it'll be ready to ship in october and installed ASAP. looking at the engine torn apart in my garage and the mountain of wiring i'd have to sort through to make it work, was keeping me up at night. so at this point i'm only keeping the transmission from that C2500 i tore apart. shameful, i know. that truck has served as one hell of a learning experience for me. it all seemed like a good idea at the time and turned out not to be. a 5.3l is a permanent solution where the '99 vortec engine was always planned to be a temporary solution until i could do something better.
so with that said, Daisy will soon have a 5.3/4l80e/np241 drivetrain.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
You'll be happy.
i spent the day in the garage, didn't necessarily make any progress on Daisy but i did get some **** done. i put a bunch of tools away, swept the floor, sold my quad, my old 10bolt front axle and my Vortec heads along with all the EFI **** from the old engine. i also test fit my Trail-tech adapter onto the 4l80e and np241, so sexy. i pulled the hubs off my dana 60 and took the old rotors off, tomorrow morning i'll hit O'Reilly auto parts and get new wheel studs, calipers & pads and have the rotors re-surfaced. here pretty soon i'll get the hubs machined and install the 60. 
goodbye 10 bolt...
fits beautifully! now i need an SYE kit for the 241 so when my 5.3l shows up i can get everything mocked up and welded, then measure for drivelines.
goodbye quad...
goodbye 10 bolt...
fits beautifully! now i need an SYE kit for the 241 so when my 5.3l shows up i can get everything mocked up and welded, then measure for drivelines.
goodbye quad...
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I made three trips to O'Reilly auto parts today, new steering box, front calipers, pads, wheel studs and had my rotors turned. Still need lug nuts, banjo fittings, hub seals, spring center pins, a sector shaft nut and of course, to have the hubs machined.
also learned tonight that my ORD motor mounts aren't going to work with the adapter plates i'll need for my 5.3l engine. i guess i'll have to figure something else out...
also learned tonight that my ORD motor mounts aren't going to work with the adapter plates i'll need for my 5.3l engine. i guess i'll have to figure something else out...
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KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
did you just the 10b or sell it whole? Progress is looking good!
sold it whole. thanks man, sometimes it feels like i'm moving backwards.
The restoration/modification of Daisy...
I went to a local hydraulic shop today and picked up banjo fittings for my dana 60 calipers I am one step closer to installing this thing.
I went to a local hydraulic shop today and picked up banjo fittings for my dana 60 calipers I am one step closer to installing this thing.
The restoration/modification of Daisy...
So if you haven't seen my thread in the lounge, I got a code violation notice for the suburban being torn down like it is. So now I've got two weeks to make it look operational and turn it around in my driveway so that the rear license plate can't be seen from the street. fortunately that's all they really care is that if it isn't registered at least you can't see that from the road so I need to make this thing look operational again and I'm on a deadline to do it. So today I am putting the steering on the truck and this weekend I will probably have the Dana 60 installed and the wheels and tires back on and the fenders back on as well. On the bright side with it turned around I can install the rear shackle flip and get rid of those nasty lift blocks.
I got my XJ steering shaft and 2wd box installed today. One of the threaded holes on my steering box had boogered up threads in it so I actually have to take it back off and tap the whole out but oh well no big deal. (That was probably my fault, being impatient.) I am however missing this sector shaft nut to hold the Pitman arm on which kind of sucks. When I removed the old 4wd steering box I just threw it away so I'm stuck paying the core charge on the 2wd box and I'm missing the sector shaft nut, story of my life.
So if you haven't seen my thread in the lounge, I got a code violation notice for the suburban being torn down like it is. So now I've got two weeks to make it look operational and turn it around in my driveway so that the rear license plate can't be seen from the street. fortunately that's all they really care is that if it isn't registered at least you can't see that from the road so I need to make this thing look operational again and I'm on a deadline to do it. So today I am putting the steering on the truck and this weekend I will probably have the Dana 60 installed and the wheels and tires back on and the fenders back on as well. On the bright side with it turned around I can install the rear shackle flip and get rid of those nasty lift blocks.
I got my XJ steering shaft and 2wd box installed today. One of the threaded holes on my steering box had boogered up threads in it so I actually have to take it back off and tap the whole out but oh well no big deal. (That was probably my fault, being impatient.) I am however missing this sector shaft nut to hold the Pitman arm on which kind of sucks. When I removed the old 4wd steering box I just threw it away so I'm stuck paying the core charge on the 2wd box and I'm missing the sector shaft nut, story of my life.
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so my DRW hubs are now ready to be thrown on the lathe, a year after purchasing the axle...
ive read several threads on pirate about the "wrong" and "right" ways to cut off the WMS flange and what kind of metal they are. (cast chromoly is what i kept finding.) i decided to go my own way. after talking to our fabricator at work and doing some research on the hubs, i decided o torch cut the flanges about 1/2" out from the body of the hub and grind the rest off to get them lathe ready. i put the hubs in a barrel full of wet sand, filling the inside of the hub as well. and cut from one wheel stud hole to another, alternating from one side to another. i'd cut 2-3 of them and wait 15min, then cut another 2-3. it took a while, about 45min per hub. the body of the hubs never got over 300* throughout the process. most of the time the body of the hubs stayed in the 230-260* range. then after the entire flange was cut off, i let the hubs cool to under 150* before taking them out of the sand. the idea is that the body of the hub wont be as quick to heat up or cool down this way. after cutting one hub from start to finish, the outside of the barrel was 110* so i guess it did what i was hoping it would do. i'm sure there are guys who will tell me i did it wrong and i'll die a fiery vehicular death upside down on the side of the highway because of it but i feel ok about it.
in the sand box
ready to start grinding
part way through
grinding done!
didn't go through half as much grinding wheel as i expected. i bought two 7" wheels thinking i'd kill at least one of them but it only took 1.5" off of one wheel. my hands and elbows are killing me.
tomorrow i'll drop them off at my friend's house to have them cut on the lathe and hopefully have them done in a day or two. (he works in his garage a few hrs a day between his full time job and wife & kids)
[EDIT] my new iPhone5 takes much better photos than my old iPhone
ive read several threads on pirate about the "wrong" and "right" ways to cut off the WMS flange and what kind of metal they are. (cast chromoly is what i kept finding.) i decided to go my own way. after talking to our fabricator at work and doing some research on the hubs, i decided o torch cut the flanges about 1/2" out from the body of the hub and grind the rest off to get them lathe ready. i put the hubs in a barrel full of wet sand, filling the inside of the hub as well. and cut from one wheel stud hole to another, alternating from one side to another. i'd cut 2-3 of them and wait 15min, then cut another 2-3. it took a while, about 45min per hub. the body of the hubs never got over 300* throughout the process. most of the time the body of the hubs stayed in the 230-260* range. then after the entire flange was cut off, i let the hubs cool to under 150* before taking them out of the sand. the idea is that the body of the hub wont be as quick to heat up or cool down this way. after cutting one hub from start to finish, the outside of the barrel was 110* so i guess it did what i was hoping it would do. i'm sure there are guys who will tell me i did it wrong and i'll die a fiery vehicular death upside down on the side of the highway because of it but i feel ok about it.
in the sand box
ready to start grinding
part way through
grinding done!
didn't go through half as much grinding wheel as i expected. i bought two 7" wheels thinking i'd kill at least one of them but it only took 1.5" off of one wheel. my hands and elbows are killing me.
tomorrow i'll drop them off at my friend's house to have them cut on the lathe and hopefully have them done in a day or two. (he works in his garage a few hrs a day between his full time job and wife & kids)
[EDIT] my new iPhone5 takes much better photos than my old iPhone
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Today I got my 60 and TNA engine crossmember installed. Also got my brake lines all put back in place and measured for tie rod and drag link lengths. Tomorrow ill drop my hubs, rotors, tie rod ends and steering box off at a friend's house. He'll be machining the hubs, building the steering links and tapping one of the mounting holes on the box that I ****ed up being impatient.
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I've spent the last two days after work at my friend's house where we're building **** for daisy. The machine work on the hubs is done and we tapped out one of the mounting holes on the steering box that i ****ed up. Today I'll drill out the rotors and hubs for the new wheel studs while he starts building the steering links. I should have a package from WFO today or tomorrow that will complete my steering now all I need is lug nuts.
Its being done on a 75yr old Craftsman 12x36" hobby lathe. No power feed, all by hand.
Its being done on a 75yr old Craftsman 12x36" hobby lathe. No power feed, all by hand.
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my latest WFO package showed up today, all i need now is lug nuts and hub seals. the hubs/rotors are done being drilled/machined. i bought a couple drill bits today, drilled the rotors and reamed them another .002" to make the studs a clean fit, the hubs are .010" under the spline diameter on the studs so they'll be a nice press fit. tomorrow i'll assemble them and get them cleaned up. friday we're making the steering links and this weekend it'll all get installed.
The restoration/modification of Daisy...
well, **** me to tears...
i installed my zero rate today and realized that to relocate the axle forward, i need new spring plates too. so i bought some from DIY, if they had any other shipping options i'd have rushed them in, oh well.
i assembled my hubs/rotors. that went well, everything fit perfectly. tomorrow i'll take them to work and wash them so i can get the hubs/brakes installed this weekend.
then my friend called to let me know that the tube adapters for my steering links were done. and tapped wrong. my TREs are 7/8-18 and he tapped them to 7/8-14 because he thought they were the same as 7/8" heim joints. he doesn't have 7/8-18 taps to make the inserts. so now i'm trying to find some inserts that will work and having no luck. (i need 7/8-18 for a 1.5" tube ID, i'm using 1 3/4" .120 wall DOM because theres a ton of it laying around) I might just buy him the taps tomorrow and start over on the tube inserts. taps are $100 for the two of them, inserts would be $50+ shipping or so and i'd have to wait for them.
there's always something...
well, **** me to tears...
i installed my zero rate today and realized that to relocate the axle forward, i need new spring plates too. so i bought some from DIY, if they had any other shipping options i'd have rushed them in, oh well.
i assembled my hubs/rotors. that went well, everything fit perfectly. tomorrow i'll take them to work and wash them so i can get the hubs/brakes installed this weekend.
then my friend called to let me know that the tube adapters for my steering links were done. and tapped wrong. my TREs are 7/8-18 and he tapped them to 7/8-14 because he thought they were the same as 7/8" heim joints. he doesn't have 7/8-18 taps to make the inserts. so now i'm trying to find some inserts that will work and having no luck. (i need 7/8-18 for a 1.5" tube ID, i'm using 1 3/4" .120 wall DOM because theres a ton of it laying around) I might just buy him the taps tomorrow and start over on the tube inserts. taps are $100 for the two of them, inserts would be $50+ shipping or so and i'd have to wait for them.
there's always something...
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Well at least your making progress!
The restoration/modification of Daisy...
I'm ****ing myself every chance I get here guys...
I'm on a deadline, by sep 10th I've gotta have this ****in truck looking operational and turned around in my driveway to keep the city off my ass. I've got to get the brakes and steering assembled then put the fenders and hood back on and then turn it around. I'm waiting on parts from ballistic fabrication, DIY4X, pep boys and Napa now.
I didn't realize there was a difference between the front brake calipers for a 1978 Dana 60 and a 1985 to 87 Dana 60 and of course I ordered the wrong ****ing ones. What makes it even better is that no one in town has 1978 Dana 60 calipers in stock and with this god damn holiday I'm a day late on all my shipments. Labor Day can kiss my ass!
And before you ask, no I do not have the old calipers.
I'm ****ing myself every chance I get here guys...
I'm on a deadline, by sep 10th I've gotta have this ****in truck looking operational and turned around in my driveway to keep the city off my ass. I've got to get the brakes and steering assembled then put the fenders and hood back on and then turn it around. I'm waiting on parts from ballistic fabrication, DIY4X, pep boys and Napa now.
I didn't realize there was a difference between the front brake calipers for a 1978 Dana 60 and a 1985 to 87 Dana 60 and of course I ordered the wrong ****ing ones. What makes it even better is that no one in town has 1978 Dana 60 calipers in stock and with this god damn holiday I'm a day late on all my shipments. Labor Day can kiss my ass!
And before you ask, no I do not have the old calipers.
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The restoration/modification of Daisy...
so pep boys screwed up. ordered one caliper for a 1/2 ton truck instead of two calipers for a 1 ton truck... i went across the road to napa and had the right calipers a few hours later, turns out the only difference was the banjo fitting holes. anyway, the brakes are on and bled. only took an entire 3 day weekend o do it...
I'm eventually going to have to re-route the hard lines on the frame but this will do for now. I used a tubing bender to put that last 90* bend in there so it wouldn't kink. With the banjo fitting angle on the 60 calipers my lines are a little short. Ideally I'd like to have the lines drop down off the engine crossmember and have hard lines run out to flex lines at the knuckles. But that'll come in time.
damn those springs look like ****, i should have painted them.
so pep boys screwed up. ordered one caliper for a 1/2 ton truck instead of two calipers for a 1 ton truck... i went across the road to napa and had the right calipers a few hours later, turns out the only difference was the banjo fitting holes. anyway, the brakes are on and bled. only took an entire 3 day weekend o do it...
I'm eventually going to have to re-route the hard lines on the frame but this will do for now. I used a tubing bender to put that last 90* bend in there so it wouldn't kink. With the banjo fitting angle on the 60 calipers my lines are a little short. Ideally I'd like to have the lines drop down off the engine crossmember and have hard lines run out to flex lines at the knuckles. But that'll come in time.
damn those springs look like ****, i should have painted them.
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BerettaMato
Registered Member
Wish you were closer I would help the best I could. Good luck still think you can do it.
colorado huh? i wish i was closer too, haha! its beautiful up there. i'm getting along alright on the build, i'm just stressed out because i'm on a deadline right now. as soon as the truck is looking presentable and turned around i can relax and slow down again.
