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The restoration/modification of Daisy.

yeah but... if you take the weight off of it, it is hitting the ground.

It's 42" long, it'll hit something and stop the truck. And it took another truck pushing it up hill to take the weight off the chocks. It'll be fine.
 
Looking great!

You could put a zip-tie on the pry bar to keep it in place, but it does not sound like you are too worried about it.
 
Looking great!

You could put a zip-tie on the pry bar to keep it in place, but it does not sound like you are too worried about it.

it ain't moving, i actually tried moving it by hand and can't.

so while the rear suspension is under the knife i plan on swapping to disc brakes. i'l probably pick up DIY's plates and have some lines made at a local hose shop. according to DIY's website i just get some 3/4 ton front calipers & pads and slap em on, so i might as well while i'm back there.

does anyone know what i could use to clean out the fuel lines? one of them at the back has some varnish looking **** dripping out of it. not sure if carb cleaner shot through them will be enough but that's where i'll start. i'd rather not replace them all if i don't have to.

aso, the front end is too damn tall. i know it'll come down a bit when the engine/trans/case and all that **** gets installed but its still tall. so i'm going to ditch the Hill4WD 6" shackles and get some 4.5" shackles, maybe even some grease-able bolts. of course then it'd bother me that ive only got those ones and i'd have to buy them for all the suspension bolts... dammit. either way, the truck's too damn tall, the body lift and front shackles are going bye-bye.
 
i got a call from City of Henderson today, they came by and checked it out. case closed, i'm free and clear. and because i was cooperative, if anyone does complain (not likely) he said he'd call me first rather than leave a notice on my door.

Pull the body lift then see what it does

carb cleaner and compressed air works rather well for the lines.

pulling the body lift will bring the front end down to 6", swapping shackles will set it at 5". the shackle flip and 6" shackles out back should set it around 5" as well. if that doesn't sit level, i'll throw an EZ inch in the back, i'd like to end up around 5".
i'll clean out the fuel lines this weekend while i'm under there.
 
i spent a couple hours out in the garage tonight, removing **** from the rear end of the frame. old bump stop mounts, shock mounts, exhaust hangers, etc... nothing too exciting, just cutting and punching a bunch of rivets. maybe tomorrow i'll do something worth taking photos of.
 
Whats with the trac bar mount (panhard) Why did you install one? Typically that's for coil sprung axles.

It's built into the TNA engine crossmember. I didn't see the need to cut it off, if I ever 3 link the truck the upper mount is already done for me.
 
I spent all morning in the garage again, got some much needed cleaning done and did some work on daisy. All the extra **** is removed from the frame now. E-brake cable guides, exhaust hangers, upper shock mounts, bump stops, etc. The fuel lines are cleaned out. I also removed my upper shock mount and stripped the orange paint/exhaust grime off of it, it's primed now awaiting paint.

Scrap metal
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Upper mount before
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After, drilled some more holes too.
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Got all my tools put away and organized.
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Also updated my current project board. I've got a bigger board with an overview on it and I put the current projects on this smaller board. Helps me stay on track.
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i got some parts ordered today, should be able to move forward with the rear suspension/brakes this weekend.

i ordered a rear disc kit with steel braided lines from this guy on pirate. his name is shawn, real nice guy, easy to deal with. i originally wanted DIY4X disc adapter plates but this being a complete kit is too easy to pass up. and i'm sill supporting an american businessman.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axle...t-disc-brake-kit-315-shipped.html#post9210075

Ive also got some bitchin lower shock mounts coming from Totally Naked Automotive. i'm thoroughly impressed with his engine crossmember, so i figured the rear shock mounts would be equally impressive.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3329309&postcount=254

i'm gonna try to get my rear shackles cross-tied this weekend and hopefully get the shackle flip installed.
 
The restoration/modification of Daisy...

my disc brake kit and TNA shock mounts showed up today. i put Dasiy back on the wheel chocks so i can pull the rear axle this weekend.

These things are pretty, made to the angle I wanted, which happened to be vertical. TNA can build these with just about any angle you need for your build. His products are top notch, check him out!
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upedygyp.jpg


The brake kit is nice too. I'll probably bend up new hard lines for the axle and have a steel braided line for the center made. while on the topic of brakes, ive got a couple questions. with swapping to a D60 and rear discs, is my oem master cylinder going to be enough or should i swap in a 1 ton MC? also has anyone eliminated the load sensing proportioning valve on the rear brakes? i'm wondering what the rear brakes would do without it. Too strong, too weak? i dunno. i guess i could just make a new arm for it and hook it back up.
e5ubydyd.jpg
 
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my disc brake kit and TNA shock mounts showed up today. i put Dasiy back on the wheel chocks so i can pull the rear axle this weekend.

These things are pretty, made to the angle I wanted, which happened to be vertical. TNA can build these with just about any angle you need for your build. His products are top notch, check him out!
merygy5u.jpg


upedygyp.jpg


The brake kit is nice too. I'll probably bend up new hard lines for the axle and have a steel braided line for the center made. while on the topic of brakes, ive got a couple questions. with swapping to a D60 and rear discs, is my oem master cylinder going to be enough or should i swap in a 1 ton MC? also has anyone eliminated the load sensing proportioning valve on the rear brakes? i'm wondering what the rear brakes would do without it. Too strong, too weak? i dunno. i guess i could just make a new arm for it and hook it back up.
e5ubydyd.jpg

Definitely move up to 1ton mc as for the rear brake adjuster it will become full pressure and work as if it's loaded all time.
So if you are empty and slam on the brakes it will lock up the rear.
I have deleted some.
 
Definitely move up to 1ton mc as for the rear brake adjuster it will become full pressure and work as if it's loaded all time.
So if you are empty and slam on the brakes it will lock up the rear.
I have deleted some.

thats kinda what i was expecting to hear. ok.
 
today i took the rear axle out, trashed all the drum brake junk, cut the old shock mounts off the axle, shaved the diff a little more and cleaned the axle up to be painted.

is it just me or does the drum brake mechanism look like something designed in cold war era russia? i pulled the drums and stared at it for a second, then i figured out how to remove it all. a grinder.
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got the hubs off and all cleaned up, gotta get some new wheel studs, which no one stocks. i'll order some from rock auto or somewhere.
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after installing DIY4X spring plates up front, i can't possibly put these things back on the rear end. i cut the u-bolts off too.
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cutting/grinding off the old shock mounts, cleaning the whole axle and shaving the diff made quite a mess.
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not really shaved compared to some, but its better than stock and i can't feel my hands, i'm done for the day.
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i need to tap out that top hole, the threads are ****ed up.
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My 1988 V10 Suburban has rear discs on a 14bff and a Dana 60 front. I am still running the factory half ton master cylinder with zero problems. Leave it alone.

Martin
 
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