that sucks. now you need a new condenser to boot...
CK5
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The restoration/modification of Daisy.
- Thread starter muddysub
- Start date
Damn.
Nasty
The restoration/modification of Daisy… [Blazer Bash is getting closer]
On my way home yesterday I stopped at a local air-conditioning shop. They've been in business a long time and have a good reputation here in town. We talked for a while about the AC system on my truck and they gave me some good ideas and advice. Made me realize that we've probably not been adding enough oil to the system and we discussed R12 vs R134a. A few of the guys all agreed that an older system like this, switched over to R134a here in the desert really won't last that long anyway. They say 2 to 4 years is average before something goes wrong. Apparently it'll last a lot longer on R12 because it runs at a lower pressure. I should have paid more attention to AC class back in college. So here in my garage I've got a new compressor, condenser, accumulator and orifice tube. I've got a rear expansion valve and front evaporator ordered... Once all my parts are in, I'll flush the lines and rear evaporator (round tubes) assemble everything with new o-rings and take it to them. They'll leak check, vacuum and charge it for me. I'm done guessing and screwing it up, I can do the labor, the technical stuff is their job now.
This weekend we're wiring up the rear blower, sanding and priming the rest of the body (I want her to be all one color for Moab) and replacing the fuel pump. The following weekend I HAVE TO build the rear tire carrier. The latch showed up so I don't have any excuses...
On my way home yesterday I stopped at a local air-conditioning shop. They've been in business a long time and have a good reputation here in town. We talked for a while about the AC system on my truck and they gave me some good ideas and advice. Made me realize that we've probably not been adding enough oil to the system and we discussed R12 vs R134a. A few of the guys all agreed that an older system like this, switched over to R134a here in the desert really won't last that long anyway. They say 2 to 4 years is average before something goes wrong. Apparently it'll last a lot longer on R12 because it runs at a lower pressure. I should have paid more attention to AC class back in college. So here in my garage I've got a new compressor, condenser, accumulator and orifice tube. I've got a rear expansion valve and front evaporator ordered... Once all my parts are in, I'll flush the lines and rear evaporator (round tubes) assemble everything with new o-rings and take it to them. They'll leak check, vacuum and charge it for me. I'm done guessing and screwing it up, I can do the labor, the technical stuff is their job now.
This weekend we're wiring up the rear blower, sanding and priming the rest of the body (I want her to be all one color for Moab) and replacing the fuel pump. The following weekend I HAVE TO build the rear tire carrier. The latch showed up so I don't have any excuses...
Sounds like a great plan.
And stop posting those dang count down timers.
your going to give me a massive anxiety attack.
And stop posting those dang count down timers.
your going to give me a massive anxiety attack.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
That's a trip.
Sounds like a great plan.
And stop posting those dang count down timers.
You know it's coming, it's best to stay aware!
And stop posting those dang count down timers.
I concur. Saw that "19 days" and my heart fluttered.....
We can all laugh about this when we see each other's trucks.
Or cry...
I was bummed last year my truck didn't make it. This year I will have nothing to be ashamed about.
Are you running that new spectra cross flow condensor? 7-3642. Pretty interested in that critter. Dropping heat better makes a huge difference!
Also you might all ready know brother but i thought i'd let a few years of a/c knowledge fall out of my head...lol. Back in the day with burbs gm ran 2 different condensors. One for front air only and one for w/rear air. The diff of course was in the fin count per inch to disapate the heat. The newer cross flow units do an amazing job of doing just that.
Wrapping the accumulator with the neoprene boot found on G vans and some burbs helps shield the cold refrigerant that is in a low psi gas state at that point from warming up. That being said wrap the suction line with a thermal barrier of some sort. Apply a thermal barrier to the evap case as well. Ask uncle nick.
Install ball valves in your heater core. You can get fancy and use a vacum operated valve but the desert southwest is extreme so skip the vacum and physically stop the flow!
Picture is of my a/c drawer in my tool box. Hasn't been touched since the summer of 09 when i was back in phx running a mobile service truck. I gave my 134A robin air machine and nitrogen tank to my buddy since i kinda don't use it anymore. Hear that uncle nick...its down at Pats shop should you need it.
Oil in the system is rather important so make sure she has plenty. They make a dipstick for sanden compressors. I'll have to go thru my drawer as i remember something about two different ones. Been to long to remember why. Also it would take some work but adding a high psi cutout switch to the stock ccot system which only has a low psi switch to protect the compressor. 134a runs higher head pressures. I forget how high since its been 10 years since i last wrenched on a daily basis for 11 years with frieghtliner but i do remember it cost me good money to get a 400 psi gauge set for the nitrogen tank for leak checking.
Well...off to the garage i go. I officially have no wheels but a bicycle to get around on till the Jimmy is up. My fan shroud showed up today. I'll try to make my unemployed arse make a post soon...
DW
Also you might all ready know brother but i thought i'd let a few years of a/c knowledge fall out of my head...lol. Back in the day with burbs gm ran 2 different condensors. One for front air only and one for w/rear air. The diff of course was in the fin count per inch to disapate the heat. The newer cross flow units do an amazing job of doing just that.
Wrapping the accumulator with the neoprene boot found on G vans and some burbs helps shield the cold refrigerant that is in a low psi gas state at that point from warming up. That being said wrap the suction line with a thermal barrier of some sort. Apply a thermal barrier to the evap case as well. Ask uncle nick.
Install ball valves in your heater core. You can get fancy and use a vacum operated valve but the desert southwest is extreme so skip the vacum and physically stop the flow!
Picture is of my a/c drawer in my tool box. Hasn't been touched since the summer of 09 when i was back in phx running a mobile service truck. I gave my 134A robin air machine and nitrogen tank to my buddy since i kinda don't use it anymore. Hear that uncle nick...its down at Pats shop should you need it.
Oil in the system is rather important so make sure she has plenty. They make a dipstick for sanden compressors. I'll have to go thru my drawer as i remember something about two different ones. Been to long to remember why. Also it would take some work but adding a high psi cutout switch to the stock ccot system which only has a low psi switch to protect the compressor. 134a runs higher head pressures. I forget how high since its been 10 years since i last wrenched on a daily basis for 11 years with frieghtliner but i do remember it cost me good money to get a 400 psi gauge set for the nitrogen tank for leak checking.
Well...off to the garage i go. I officially have no wheels but a bicycle to get around on till the Jimmy is up. My fan shroud showed up today. I'll try to make my unemployed arse make a post soon...
DW
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We had a long, busy day today. The rear blower is wired, rear lights are wired, fuel pump replaced, diff covers and pinion guard installed and the whole body is sanded and primed. We're all exhausted... And now my fuel gauge is inop. The needle is buried past full, I must have damaged the sending unit.
Aeromotive pump, plenty of power on the top end now.
The new diff covers look great.
. I didn't get any photos of the truck after all the primer was sprayed.
Aeromotive pump, plenty of power on the top end now.
The new diff covers look great.
The fuel gauge is more of an annoyance than anything. You can worry about that later.
Martin
Martin
Agreed. Just keep a jerry can handy and take lots of pictures in Moab
Yeah I guess I'll be ok without it. One less thing I need to do before I leave.
I'm really happy to have it all one color. It needs a lot of work before it's ready for paint but this is a big step.
The Diy4X pinion guard is ****in stout!
454Sub
5/8 ton status
Maybe its just me, but it seems like the pinion is a few degrees higher than I imagine the t case is. Does it vibrate? Or do you perhaps have a cv rear shaft?
Lookin' good! 
