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Wes's Burb build/update/maintance

JoshHefnerX said:
Silicone does seem to last longer here in AZ. 3-4xs for me. So maybe a year, year and a half... AZ is tough on blades.
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I bet the blade material comes on a roll. Would be kind of cool to get the right design silicone, in a bulk roll. Cut your own to fit.

Problem with blades that languish in harsh conditions is that you don't need them often. But when you do, they fail. They look fine sitting there doing nothing. Lol

Compared to their lack of complexity, hey are really kind of a pain to change too. If the arms went vertical and stayed there like most modern designs, it wouldn't be much of a chore. The driver one is JUST far enough away to be a irritating.
 
I always get upset when I have to buy new blades because I remember buying the trico refills for a few bucks that easily clipped into the old style articulating arms.
Now everything is beam style which may well be better at its job, but it's more expensive, more wasteful, and they don't last any longer than the old refills did.
I've tried expensive silicon blades, they still only last me six months or so. In the summer it's lots of dust and dirt from backcountry roads that kills them. In the winter the snow and ice eats them like sandpaper.
If i'm lucky I catch the costco sale on the goodyear blades and I stock up on 22" blades before they sell out.
 
anytime I order from RockAuto I will usually order wiper blades; cheaper there than anywhere I have seen.
 
I looked,wasn't able yo find refills. Neither the trico or the anco numbers came up
 
Polymath said:
I always get upset when I have to buy new blades because I remember buying the trico refills for a few bucks that easily clipped into the old style articulating arms.
Now everything is beam style which may well be better at its job, but it's more expensive, more wasteful, and they don't last any longer than the old refills did.
I've tried expensive silicon blades, they still only last me six months or so. In the summer it's lots of dust and dirt from backcountry roads that kills them. In the winter the snow and ice eats them like sandpaper.
If i'm lucky I catch the costco sale on the goodyear blades and I stock up on 22" blades before they sell out.
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They were pure silicone? When I was looking I noticed a bunch of them were something like a silicone blend. But much cheaper than the ones that were pure silicone.

For the price of them, I'd be pissed if they didn't last any longer.
 
Reading these replies makes me glad I haven't cared to put wipers on mine. :haha:



Part of the issue is I need to figure out how to wire the motor and switch. the EZ harness didn't have those plugs. Although it wouldn't be hard to figure out I just flat out don't really care.
 
Made some changes to Qjet. Was starting to fowl plugs, rich run. Out with the 75 Jets in with 73s. I also changed the power spring to 4in Hg from 5. Cruise was nice plugs and misfire seemed to clean up, but it flooded out while driving up hill once, very nice to be able to switch off the electric pump and clear flood. I really had to boot in the ass to get the power circuit kick.
Then decided to go back to the 5in Hg power spring, and I swapped in a new needle for the inlet, float level checked at 11/32". Test drive, flooded out at very same spot on up hill. Started me thinking maybe the fuel is running over the bowl lip into the secondaries, I have reused the gasket maybe a dozen times. Today I lowered the float level to 15/32", Edelbrock's 1902 spec, new bowl gasket, and switched the power spring to 7in Hg.

Road test up date latter, am still tearing into the 8.1l
 
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Wes Harden said:
Made some changes to Qjet. Was starting to fowl plugs, rich run. Out with the 75 Jets in with 73s. I also changed the power spring to 4in Hg from 5. Cruise was nice plugs and misfire seemed to clean up, but it flooded out while driving up hill once, very nice to be able to switch off the electric pump and clear flood. I really had to boot in the ass to get the power circuit kick.
Then decided to go back to the 5in Hg power spring, and I swapped in a new needle for the inlet, float level checked at 11/32". Test drive, flooded out at very same spot on up hill. Started me thinking maybe the fuel is running over the bowl lip into the secondaries, I have reused the gasket maybe a dozen times. Today I lowered the float level to 15/32", Edelbrock's 1902 spec, new bowl gasket, and switched the power spring to 7in Hg.

Road test up date latter, am still tearing into the 8.1l
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Dude you got bucketloads more patience than I ever had over making such small adjustments to the qjet. It’s awesome. I think I would have thrown efi on it long ago if it was mine.

Way to go! Totally impressed.
 
Ran some erands today. Made a right turn on the highway kicked it in the pants,ran pretty good. Got @ a mile down the road pulled into a left turn lane and it flooded out. Almost couldn't get it restarted. Got it home by switching the fuel pump off and on 10 seconds at a time.
So new needle and seat, plus a new float. Short road test was good. May need new plugs.
 
Have @ 50 miles since last carb change. Everything seems good no flooding. I think 1 or 2 plugs got fouled.
With the new vacuum switch in the TCC circuit finding the sweet spot setting has been a challenge. Right now that spot is 9in Hg. Only issue that is just under cruise vacuum of 10-11in Hg, if light accel is needed this right at 9in Hg and TCC flutters.
waiting on a vacuum delay valve to see if this will help
 
I was going to say you just need lower gears to get more vacuum, but your signature says you have plenty

Any idea what the stock vacuum switches are set to?
 
No idea what gm had theirs set to. Been running around with a vacuum guage tee'd into the switch. Most acceleration is @5in or lower. Flat level crusie is 11ish, slight down grade is 17,slight up grade is 9 right on the switch. Mine is adjustable, lowest claimed is 6in Hg. I have the screw at lowest setting limit which seems to be 9.
 
added a vac delay valve before the tcc vac switch, it works as advertised, vacuum reading is smooth, slow to change. Moves past the cut in/out point and no flutter. One issue I hadn't counted on the valve reduces overall vacuum at the switch by @ 2in Hg. My rig barely made 12in at 60 flat and level so I still spend more time unlocked than locked.

Going to try a restrictor like https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB2618, results to forth coming.
 
The restrictor is a winner. Doesn't cut down the vacuum seen by switch, cut in/out moved lower by 1-1.5 in Hg. No tcc flutter when close to cut in/out.
TCC unlocks @ 7in Hg right where I have the main metering rods lifting for the power circuit. Should be good to good.
Big test this weekend will be towing the buggy to AVI resort and casino, Laughlin adjacent, for a Manx Club event. Will be an excellent test of all my changes.

One thing i need to get on is sliders. Gonna have to play footman all weekend sovthe little woman can get in and out of the truck:doah:

Also considering an add an easy inch for front axle.
 
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