CK5
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Well I didn't see that while I was was scraping and wire brushing the age old caked grease. I will certainly go look for that this morning.
Thanks for heads up
 
Yesterday I got the front output housing seal and gasket replaced, driveshaft in perm, cross member installed. Today I dug out the skid plate, and second cross member, that have been off for 20 years. Need to make spacers to bolt 2nd cross member on. Filled t case, replaced both diffs breather hoses since both where way to short. Drove races into front hubs. then had lunch, after will pack wheel bearing and hubs, get them on and new front brakes. Then put the front on stands so I can choose the drag link set up I need to use.
Waiting on parts for Daughter's Element, I think I can have the burb off the rack so I can use for Honda
 
After lunch, got bearings and hubs lubed up and installed, locking cap on. Axles lock and unlock.
Found a piece of 3/4 .120 wall tube I can chop up to make the spacers for the 2nd cross member.
Set it down on body stands to check drag link angle. With raise steering arm and stock pitman arm it is almost level. I noticed it is bent to, I think that happened while I was out with Zoo. Steering wheel was straight going wheeling Zoo and not straight.
I have a new arm end, may plop down $$$ for ORD coupler.
edit: forgot picture, I was in pool while I posted above
IMG_20230703_170600.jpg
 
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Burb is back together, on the ground full of eng oil, trans fld is ? I ran out, though I had 5 quarts turns out 2 were 30w compressor oil and 1 bottle was half full.
New front brake pads and caliper pin kits, Only had the short non bent side of drag link so I just buttoned that up, used the raised steering arm and stock pitman pictured above. Same as before all the work and I had no complaints. If I don't like it's not hard to change. Mian battery was dead I thought I disconnected but guess not :doah:
Tomorrow I will swap the burb for the Honda and get started on that. Fingers crossed the 77 a/c still works since the 01 quit, will run errands in the 77 till I have time to redo the 01 which is looking like maybe early Aug.
Still need to
Put ARB compressor in
cargo tie down tracks in rear
Baja Design lights
redo battery solenoid with 4 or 6ga cable and wire in a momentary switch in cab so if needed I can link 2 batteries together for cranking.
Oil leaks I didn't get to those
Front crank seal
left valve cover
oil pan one piece gasket ready
New Dampener is on the list.
Need a new trans temp gauge
 
After lunch, got bearings and hubs lubed up and installed, locking cap on. Axles lock and unlock.
Found a piece of 3/4 .120 wall tube I can chop up to make the spacers for the 2nd cross member.
Set it down on body stands to check drag link angle. With raise steering arm and stock pitman arm it is almost level. I noticed it is bent to, I think that happened while I was out with Zoo. Steering wheel was straight going wheeling Zoo and not straight.
I have a new arm end, may plop down $$$ for ORD coupler.
edit: forgot picture, I was in pool while I posted above
View attachment 451361
Don’t put that sh*t on me Ricky Bobby! Nobody told you to drive down that dry wash in the dark!:haha:

Shoot the next day we were pretty much putting down some crappy dirt roads to that gold mine. All 2wd stuff.

But you did a good job getting that burb dug into that sandy wash in the dark. That’s probably where it happened. That looks pretty easy to tweak back straight.
 
Not saying it was you, I am say I went wheeling with you, and bent my stuff, been that for a year, I noticed the wheel center change right away. At first I was worried frame was cracked, frame is good, so it has to be the bent end. I have a coupler and long end otw and got a short side on closeout from RA awhile back. Yeah I did drive down some rough trails in the dark trying to find you guys. That deep sandy ass wash was to soft to bend stuff.
Once again I shoulda bought light bars instead of winch. Now I have a real drive shaft, can't wait to test it, fingers crossed have enough clearance on that trans pan.
Is all good on my end Rob no blaming here
 
Not saying it was you, I am say I went wheeling with you, and bent my stuff, been that for a year, I noticed the wheel center change right away. At first I was worried frame was cracked, frame is good, so it has to be the bent end. I have a coupler and long end otw and got a short side on closeout from RA awhile back. Yeah I did drive down some rough trails in the dark trying to find you guys. That deep sandy ass wash was to soft to bend stuff.
Once again I shoulda bought light bars instead of winch. Now I have a real drive shaft, can't wait to test it, fingers crossed have enough clearance on that trans pan.
Is all good on my end Rob no blaming here
I was just messing with you. It’s all good. If you aren’t using it stuff can’t get tweaked. I was happy to see you out with it for sure. Plus the search and rescue mission in the dark was a bonus. If you didn’t have that million candle power spot light I don’t think we would have found you so quickly. Bill and I got a kick out of heading out in the dark looking for you.

More adventures to come for sure!
 
After charging the battery over night, burb cranked right over and lit off, but was running stupid rich, I fiddled with the choke and tapped lightly on the bowl while running but just wouldn't clean up and stalled. Well there was fuel coming out of the accelerator pump stem, off came the air horn, I didn't see any reason for the flooding. Float hadn't sunk, needle and seat looked clean. I went ahead and changed the float I had ordered a nitrophyl (alcohol resistant) float.
Set at 15/32nd. Change the primary metering jet rod spring to next stronger. Think I have a lean condition at cruise, this might help lift the rods a little earlier under medium vacuum.
fire her up again choke works perfect, no soot out the tail pipe, idle is low when off the choke. Swap cars around get Honda on lift, and go to parts store in 77. Runs well no stumble at stops from low idle, charging voltage is low in gear at idle, 2 a/c hi blowers, condenser fan, trans cooler fan, fuel pump, and center consul cooler all running. 14.3v main,13.8v aux, idle in park, no a/c. A/c works but not well, probably low again. It has been months, maybe a year, since I touched it. It did cool, After my lunch stop inside truck was 110, short drive to parts store, down to 90, 6ish mile home got to 80. 105 by my weather app at the time. Engine temp under mid point on gauge, trans temp 185ish, oil pressure 5/8th on gauge. All good, trans fill was tad low still need another quart.

Am chomping at the bit to get her out in the soft stuff and engage the front diff, with the new driveshaft. hopefully in next couple days I will be able to get to it.
So any opinions on how to break in new gears in a front part time axle ??? Same type heat cycles ?
 
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After charging the battery over night, burb cranked right over and lit off, but was running stupid rich, I fiddled with the choke and tapped lightly on the bowl while running but just wouldn't clean up and stalled. Well there was fuel coming out of the accelerator pump stem, off came the air horn, I didn't see any reason for the flooding. Float hadn't sunk, needle and seat looked clean. I went ahead and changed the float I had ordered a nitrophyl (alcohol resistant) float.
Set at 15/32nd. Change the primary metering jet rod spring to next strong. Think I have a lean condition at cruise, this might help lift the rods a little earlier under medium vacuum.
fire her up again choke works perfect, no soot out the tail pipe, idle is low when off the choke. Swap cars around get Honda on lift, and go to parts store in 77. Runs well no stumble at stops from low idle, charging volt is low at in gear idle, 2 a/c hi blowers, condenser fan, trans cooler fan, fuel pump, and center consul cooler all running. 14.3v main,13.8v aux, idle in park, no a/c. A/c works but not well, probably low again. It has been months, maybe a year, since I touched it. It did cool, After my lunch stop inside truck was 110, short drive to parts store, down to 90, 6ish mile home got to 80. 105 by my weather at at the time. Engine temp under mid point on gauge, trans temp 185ish, oil pressure 5/8th on gauge. All good, trans fill was tad low still need another quart.

Am chomping at the bit to get her out in the soft stuff and engage the front diff, with the driveshaft. hopefully in next couple days I will be able to get to it.
So any onions on how to break in new gears in a front part time axle ??? Same type heat cycles ?
That’s gotta feel good. Other than the hot air haha.
I’ve never done anything specific on front gears other than what you’re doing to do.
Engage it and go cruise around, make sure everything sounds happy.
 
If possible actually drive it for about 30 minutes in four wheel drive on an easy dirt road and let her out of 4WD to cool off ( about 3 or 4 hours each time ) . Doing this will cause more resistance on the R/P and let it heat up properly to go through effective heat cycling - repeat this about four times and change the gear oil and let it ride.
 
This morning I put the ac gauges on, low side was down to 20psi at high idle. I popped another 12oz in, last can of r12 My brother found in a pile of garage stuff a Daughter of old car guy thought was junk. Sat right 34psi after that, same idle, was 85ish in garage at the time. I adjusted the curb idle and ac stepper motor idle, locked the hubs and went to part store. Still acquiring parts for my daughters car. Took a rad hose back to autozone, they have started pushing continental brand hoses, man are they crap. Wrong shape, paper thin, total garbage.
Got 20 miles on the axle with just hubs locked, was 105-106 ambient. A/c worked great on way to parts store 55 at center vent, took awhile to cool off the cab after a few stops, on way home center vent was 68ish.
I can defiantly do some mild 4w in soft stuff, wash is just around the corner.
 
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