CK5
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1966 Chevy C20
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
I think my multimeter will do dwell.
Here's what I found out on the ignition wiring. The resistance wire on some of the trucks is between the firewall and the starter. Then a standard wire runs from the starter to the coil. There is a small jumper wire right at the starter to get the full 12V on cranking only.
Apparently a multimeter often won't read a reduced voltage because there needs to be a load on the wire before you'll see the voltage drop. Likely the triggering the relay isn't even enough load.
Apparently a multimeter often won't read a reduced voltage because there needs to be a load on the wire before you'll see the voltage drop. Likely the triggering the relay isn't even enough load.
I put a phone charger in the cigarette lighter socket. I like to think about how the people building the truck in 66 never would have imagined it being used to charge a tiny computer that is also a mobile phone.
Finally did some work on the 66.
It hasn't been running the best so I thought maybe the fuel filter needed changing. It's located in an odd place.
I don't think that's factory. This is the new one; the previous filter was clear plastic which I didn't think was a good idea under the truck. I think there's supposed to be a canister filter between the pump and carb but it's all hard line now so I'm not sure.
I thought the idle mixture screws probably needed some adjusting after the ignition tuneup. The suggestion I read was to turn the mixture screws out until the RPM stopped increasing. All I did was barely open one up and instantly the idle came up a few hundred RPM. I turned the idle back down to 600 RPM and now it's running great. I'm seriously amazed at the improvement. I moved the mixture screw so little I'm thinking maybe I knocked debris loose more so than fixed a tuning issue.
It idles so smooth and quiet now I keep thinking the motor has died at stoplights.
I also removed these overload springs.
These had u-bolts around the frame with the rubber bumper against the trailing arms. The previous owner used the truck to haul a slide in camper. It also has air shocks, but I doubt they still work. Rides better now.
It hasn't been running the best so I thought maybe the fuel filter needed changing. It's located in an odd place.
I don't think that's factory. This is the new one; the previous filter was clear plastic which I didn't think was a good idea under the truck. I think there's supposed to be a canister filter between the pump and carb but it's all hard line now so I'm not sure.
I thought the idle mixture screws probably needed some adjusting after the ignition tuneup. The suggestion I read was to turn the mixture screws out until the RPM stopped increasing. All I did was barely open one up and instantly the idle came up a few hundred RPM. I turned the idle back down to 600 RPM and now it's running great. I'm seriously amazed at the improvement. I moved the mixture screw so little I'm thinking maybe I knocked debris loose more so than fixed a tuning issue.
It idles so smooth and quiet now I keep thinking the motor has died at stoplights.
I also removed these overload springs.
These had u-bolts around the frame with the rubber bumper against the trailing arms. The previous owner used the truck to haul a slide in camper. It also has air shocks, but I doubt they still work. Rides better now.
The front suspension from a 73-87 3/4 ton is a bolt on deal on the 2wd. You can get disc brakes from a junkyard donor for dirt cheap.
Cool, good info.
Removed the big elephant ear mirrors today. Unfortunately it looks like these weren't the first add- on mirrors, or even just the second. A few existing holes.
In the future I'll weld them up but I did this at home where I don't have a welder. It started to rain so I improvised something to cover the holes.
Looks a lot better without them in my opinion.
In the future I'll weld them up but I did this at home where I don't have a welder. It started to rain so I improvised something to cover the holes.
Looks a lot better without them in my opinion.
So good I mentioned it twice apparently.
Haha, no worries
Not bad at all. But easier out of the truck.
If you pull the tranny I can swap it out if you need help
Real question is are you sure it's the input bearing (AKA clutch gear bearing) and not the throwout bearing?
I'm basing prognosis from what I was reading on the all wise interwebs. It doesn't make noise when the clutch is depressed. It's very pronounced idling in neutral. I haven't noticed it moving in gear. I was figuring on pulling the trans to do it. The output seal needs replaced as well but I figure that's no biggy.
Sounds like a throwout bearing to me. Every one I've had go bad before would quiet down with a little pressure on the clutch. Sounds like what you are describing.
Just pull the dust cover off and spray it or is more disassembly required?
The only catch is he had the clutch replaced not much more than a year ago. Seems like every vehicle I get these days exhibits shoddy shop work.
At least spraying it might help eliminate the cause.
At least spraying it might help eliminate the cause.
