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1968 C10 DD, project "New Tricks"

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*whistles* $129 - $139.....

and I don't even know if they'll fit. Well, it's been done before but I don't know how much of a PITA job its going to be. Rather attempt using some (hard to say) cheap originals

Got my ECE front 1" drop springs in the mail today. Damn that was fast, I think ordered yesterday! Now when they do that alignment I'll have them switch out the 2" springs under the truck now.
 
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OMG what a huge let down tonight

Got to the shop after the alignment to drive it home. The new 1" drop springs sit LOWER than the previous 2" drop springs. Good amount of wheel well rub on the drive home. FUK

plus, the steering column has soooo god damn slopy it's a chore keeping it straight. I think it's in the tilt ball or the intermediate shaft. This alignment shop has done my S10 twice and it drives great. I don't think the '68 is right yet. Has tons of caster (good) but I think it needs some more toe in and negative camber.

DAMMIT

Also, while the brakes STOP really well, they make some noise and scrub some
but got my bed back on tonight to finish the mounts, takes some work getting 3 other people to help pick it up :(
 
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bummer man. Hope you get it all worked out soon.

Looking forward to seeing a pic with the bed on it though.
 
Before w/2" drop springs. After is w/ 1" drop springs lol, both have the bed in place

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yep
I estimate about 1/2" lower.

I've got some numbers for the alignment guy to try out next time the truck is in to swap springs. It has been talked about "over on that other website" by a few autocross and street truck builders like NoLimit, PB, and Hotchkis.

Anyone have any objections to trying the following...

Toe in 1/8"
Camber -.5* to -1* (that's top in I believe)
Caster between 5-6*

Since the new A-arms are built different and pushed forward slightly, I should be able to obtain the higher Caster. Factory is 1 - 2* caster, pfff. More autocross type setups like Hotchkis show up to 9* caster. It was recommended to run slight TOE IN but if you get to a track, push the tires out one full turn of the tierod on each side to help with TURN IN. Interesting as I'd like to have good street manners but also take it to a track.

Gotta work all this out. Then take it to the trans shop to do a service and put in a vette servo and 1st gear accumulator spring. Give me a little more punch like my S10 is set up. They can also look at the brakes while it's on the hoist.
 
Woah nice! and the negative camber is top in you are correct, Im actually surprised its not more, usually autox tires like lots of camber, you'll see once you take it out, I usually chalk line in a few spots to see where the tire rolls to, also you might need to run the pressure at the max for it to not be squirmy.. this all depends on how the tires respond, autocross does not give you time to warm stuff up so some of the normal techniques dont work. at lease that has my experience with autox vs road course's.
 
Yah if your talking auto cross the alignment is usually way more aggressive. It makes a huge difference too.
 
1/8 of toe is a lot of tow for a regular sized tire.

Dont forget 1/8 of toe is a whole lot more angle on those tires than it is on a 40in tsl.
 
Off track question. Any plans on changing the mirrors to something smaller?
 
Talked with ECE today and we kind of came to a conclusion that I'll return the springs and get some CPP 1" drops. As much as I don't want to, it's the better gamble. Funny though, CPP is 200 miles closer to me, but shipping is 4 days longer. ECE got them to me next day.

I have sport mirrors waiting, more popular on the 71-72 trucks. They are aftermarket pieces, which I got the passenger side convex which is nice. I will probably rock the current mirrors until I'm ready for paint. At that time the doors will change too.

Those alignment specs were more for a street truck actually. The toe moves out and camber more negative for track use. Maybe I'll start with 1/16" toe in. The guy from NoLimit had a cool tip. Run a road course and measure the temps of the front tire. Inner/ center/ and outer. Then listed what the temps meant.
 
ECE is the best is why you get your parts fast! There top notch company, with a GREAT product. I have the 5/7 sitting in garage from them for wife's 67 C10.
 
Just one of those things that slows ya down. (like front springs)

When I was messing with the bed last time I realized I couldn't get to one of the mounts. When I put the gas tank in, I went inside the frame rails instead of mounting it to the bottom. This helped get the tank up higher and get the fill spout away from the top of the rail. The problem though is I can't access the pair of mounts near the tank. So I made some new ones. They actually mirror the front mounts, both sit in a pocket.

Also, FINALLY, got the filler neck and hose put in. Oh it feels good. Moving on to the next issue/ bug/ tweak.

I'll see how easily this thing is to fill, hoping it doesn't burp while filling the tank. In hindsight, I should have made the vent 1/2"-5/8" instead of the 3/8" hose and fittings it has now. I don't think I could have fit the larger barb fittings though, but I'm sure it would have helped during fill up. Fingers crossed









 
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Well, new springs are in. Truck measures 1.25" higher in front now. I think it will work. My next set of tires will have a smaller sidewall, that shiuld help too. I will end up having to bring the back down a little, its still too high.

Here is my temporary tail light(s) from today lol

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I've got a couple questions.

1. Truck seems to be running warm, like 200-205. It was idling on the aligmnent rack and the cooling fan came on. Well, 20 minutes or so later it never turns off. The temp stayed at 205. Not sure whats going on there.

2. Driveline angles.
Trans output = 5.05° down
Driveshaft = 1.35° down
Axle pinion = 7.30° up
What shim do I need? Maybe 2- 2.5° down?

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2° down oughta do it.

Some say you need to account for axle wrap and recommend a couple degrees off. But axle wrap doesn't last long so I strive for less than 1° of difference.

As far as cooling, what temps was it at before.

I have seen everything from a pinhole in the rad to a collapsing lower hose cause issues.
 
Yeah, I figured with trailing arms I wont have any axle wrap. So I guess that 2° is good?

First time Ive ever driven the truck. I'm used to 185-195 as a running temp. Serious Ben? Factory is 210?!?! Hmmm I wonder how thats gunna play out. My fan ran the whole 15 mile drive home and the weather was nice and coolish. :/ The ECM controls the fans
 
All of the ones that I have seen run at 210. Keep in mind that the factory does it for emissions and combustion efficiency. Some tunes want lower temps to help avoid detonation.

But keep in mind that the upper radiator hose is the suction side of the water pump. (Inlet is more appropriate name, yes.) So if the coolant level is not high enough to completely cover the upper neck, it may slow the water flow.

And yeah, with trailing arms, no concern of axle wrap, unless crap goes really bad!
(I know guys that have split the arms!)
 
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