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1977 Silverado Crew Cab.

I was bored today so I gave the crew a test fit in the garage. I think I'll just barely be able to get away with painting it in there.











 
No buffing! That door is going to be replaced and painted separate from the truck but at the same time as the truck.

Anyway, I have begun the disassembly process. Got basically all the trim pulled and everything stripped to the point where the truck is still usable. Then I started removing paint in what I knew would be trouble areas. At this point it's looking like about half the driver side bed side is covered in about a 1/4" of bondo. And the c pillar and into the door jamb...











 
As someone that has a fair amount of painting experience I really think you should take some sheet metal off that old girl. That's a LOONNNGGGG run to walk that whole side for someone that doesn't have alot of paint experience.. I would pull the doors and front clip. That way you can jamb it and paint the bed at once.

Walking the side of a truck is much different then standing and spraying. My 02
 
From my good amount of research, walking the truck or car really isn't needed when doing a base clear setup. And honestly, the truck doesn't need to be perfect, and I need some experience some how. However it turns out will be acceptable and will improve the quality of my next paint job.
 
From my good amount of research, walking the truck or car really isn't needed when doing a base clear setup. And honestly, the truck doesn't need to be perfect, and I need some experience some how. However it turns out will be acceptable and will improve the quality of my next paint job.

Whatever happened to the spare bed from the '78? Are you still planning to paint and swap that one in? Or is that no longer needed? :dunno:
 
From my good amount of research, walking the truck or car really isn't needed when doing a base clear setup. And honestly, the truck doesn't need to be perfect, and I need some experience some how. However it turns out will be acceptable and will improve the quality of my next paint job.

I agree with getting it done and gaining the experience. My first paint job was at 18 and I didn't know sh!t. But I am little confused where you found that you don't need to walk a base/clear? I have been out of the paint game since I moved to Colorado in 09 so maybe there is some new stuff out there, but that is simply a paint basic.

Once you do this yourself it will change your world on the outlook of paint forever. It will no longer be a big deal at all.
I would suggest playing with that old door before you do it as spraying clear is little different. Nothing you can't handle, but it would be good to test it out first.

Your garage is big enough for sure! Still might need to piece it to spray though...
 
Just on the forums and YouTube. Looking at these people's finished products, many of them being "industry experts" leads me to belive that walking the car isn't a necessity. The way it seems lots of folks do it is they basically paint the front clip, roof, rear "clip" and then the doors and stuff. Or in some type of order like that. I don't remember off the top of my head.
 
Also, I will for sure paint the roof all by itself, and the hood, tailgate, and back side of the one door all by themselves. From what I gather, that will help a beginner like me to not have to be as precise with how much material I mix at once and can mix smaller batches. I'm pretty confident that I can pull off an acceptable paint job in my first go but that I will be learning a lot more than I really want to!
 
Ok I get what your saying. I do agree. But I am talking about a 8 ft bedside. Not much you can do about that. Your going to have to walk that. You can get away with the rest.

Are you planning on leaving the clip on? The doors?
 
Also, I will for sure paint the roof all by itself, and the hood, tailgate, and back side of the one door all by themselves. From what I gather, that will help a beginner like me to not have to be as precise with how much material I mix at once and can mix smaller batches. I'm pretty confident that I can pull off an acceptable paint job in my first go but that I will be learning a lot more than I really want to!

That is a good plan. Take your time and learn. I have painted 4 trucks and 3 cars. Two tractors, a backhoe, a forklift, and a lawn tractor. LOL not alot, but enough to have learned a few things. But I certainly am learning every time I pick up the gun! Do you have a gun yet?
 
Just on the forums and YouTube. Looking at these people's finished products, many of them being "industry experts" leads me to belive that walking the car isn't a necessity. The way it seems lots of folks do it is they basically paint the front clip, roof, rear "clip" and then the doors and stuff. Or in some type of order like that. I don't remember off the top of my head.


after painting 2000 car's/boats I can tell you, no pro goes all the way down the side of a vehicle, base or single... vehicles are painted to the break points, fender, door, qrters......

when clearing, or single stage, your reducer choice becomes more important in that process... and care needs to be taken in proper spray technique when doing any metallic... tho as mentioned previously by me, doing single stage metallic in this day and age is beyond stoopid.. unless you're insistent on using a dinosauric $80 a gal enamel...
 
oh, for the record.. generally on full paint jobs we found, and this is generally... bodylines/blend points of each vehicle truly control the best approach.. but we usually found the best approach was to start with the ds fender, ds door, ds qrter into the ds roof 1/2, trunk, ps roof down into the ps 1/4, ps door, ps fender, hood...

it leaves the horizontal surfaces as "late" as possible in the process...which tends to help eliminate as much dry/over spray on the roof, hood, trunk as possible.. obviously spraying in a barn as opposed to a down draft booth can alter this... :haha:
 
Roger that good sirs! Yes walking the bed will be a challenge. The lucky thing for me is that with the two tone, I only have to have it look right in about 1 foot sections horizontally! Lol. So that should ease things for me just a little with the white breaking up the red should make for less chance of Tiger striping and so on. I don't know why buy I feel like I am in touch with the way the metallics will work and how to get them to lay properly. I feel like I have keen eyes and good common sense which will make my beginner paint job look like a beginner paint job instead of looking like garbage. I'm almost most excited about just getting painting experience under my belt.
 
Ok, advice time. The driver side is where all the damage aperently happened to this truck at some point. For whatever reason, there Is a monster gap between the rear door and what I'm calling the c pillar. They filled the gap with bondo. How should I go about fixing this? It looks as if the whole c pillar was pushed rearward. The forward gaps are all good and I measured the door to make sure it wasn't an odd door.












By the way, this is the door that is getting replaced. I'm pretty much fine with whatever fix is appropriate but I think it's going to come down to a lesser of evils method of adding material to the c pillar. I don't really want to add a 1/4" of material to the door, but don't mind doing it to the c.
 

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