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1977 Silverado Crew Cab.

yeah, it is a lesser of 3 evils.. leave the front and pack the C with dyna... you can pack a bit of dynaglass in and and move the door back just a tad to help.. or go for a pull on the c-pillar.. just a BIT more involved.. you'd be welding pull plates, using a come-a-long, etc...

my vote is just dyna it... as long as you're not bangin it, it'll hold up fine...
 
That's what I wanted to hear. This truck is just a dd toy so there is no need to have it be "proper", it just needs to hold up ok and look decent. And yes I think I will move the door back as much as I can before that gap gets stupid so I don't need to build up quite as much.

Does the dyna glass come in long and short strand? If so, what should I get? Also, I'm assuming I should need to use some rage gold on top of the glass right? Will the glass need primed before the gold? Or does the gold go straight on top of the glass?

One last question for today. For my small rust pits, short of blasting, what type of treatment should I give them prior to priming? I have read everything from water and vinegar solution to phosphoric acid to fancy fast etch stuff.
 
y5mgisi said:
That's what I wanted to hear. This truck is just a dd toy so there is no need to have it be "proper", it just needs to hold up ok and look decent. And yes I think I will move the door back as much as I can before that gap gets stupid so I don't need to build up quite as much.

Does the dyna glass come in long and short strand? If so, what should I get? Also, I'm assuming I should need to use some rage gold on top of the glass right? Will the glass need primed before the gold? Or does the gold go straight on top of the glass?

One last question for today. For my small rust pits, short of blasting, what type of treatment should I give them prior to priming? I have read everything from water and vinegar solution to phosphoric acid to fancy fast etch stuff.
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dyna is a short hair.. which is fine for that kind of repair... do a full repair with that, rough out to 36 grit.. than skim coat with a rage to fill any minor imperfections and pinholes.. sand with 80.. prime..


always try to remove as much rust mechanically as possible... grind.. if you have some pits left, you can actually just nip each a bit with a carbide on a die grinder or dremel.. you can also scrub it a bit with some phosphoric acid to remove the remainder.....worst case, put some converter on it, than resand and prime...
 
Sweet! Thanks! So here is going to be my next issue... The bed side is FULL of bondo! :doah: it's a full quarter inch thick in some areas... Looks like I got rid of that other bed a bit prematurely.





 
y5mgisi said:
Sweet! Thanks! So here is going to be my next issue... The bed side is FULL of bondo! :doah: it's a full quarter inch thick in some areas... Looks like I got rid of that other bed a bit prematurely.





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Where have I seen that before? :whistle:
 
I know! Lol still deciding exactly what I want to do with that. I can get a brand new bed side for $350 plus shipping. Or a good used bed to steal that side off of for around $200. Or I can spend a couple weekends getting it acceptably straight.
 
y5mgisi said:
Sweet! Thanks! So here is going to be my next issue... The bed side is FULL of bondo! :doah: it's a full quarter inch thick in some areas... Looks like I got rid of that other bed a bit prematurely.





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Did you purposely try and make it look like you were making an anarchy A... what bunch of mud
 
No, but it did turn out that way didn't it. Some people just want to watch the world burn. The person that did this certainly did.
 
So at this point my plan is to find a replacement bed side. Sucks cause I never would have guessed I would find that there. But if I go into work on a weekend I'll make enough to buy a new one whereas it will probably take me at least two weekends to get the current bedside into acceptable condition. Nut I ordered some stripping discs so I'll get it stripped down anyway and just see what's under there.
 
Damn dude. That sucks when you don't suspect it. MY BE finding a better bed would be easier than changing a bed side?
 
Meh. The bed sides are easy to change. It's just a couple dozen bolts and one 3" long weld. I would rather not deal with having a whole other bed again. I think there looks to be a couple good bed sides to choose from at either the Vancouver or sherwood picknpulls.
 
So I've long suspected that my air compressor and airlines are being restrictive. Reason being is I got a new impact wrench a while back and it won't even break a lug nut loose. Figured maybe it was just a super cheap gun and said f it. Then I got a da sander and it hardly spins it. So today I did some experimenting and sure enough, something in there is restrictive. I plugged my hvlp gun and regulator up and with it plugged into the end of the hose it won't maintain 20psi with the trigger pulled. With a different fitting St the tank and the gun plugged directly into that fitting, it will maintain 20+psi easy. So I think I need to order up a new round of fittings and possibly a new air hose. If in going to paint hvlp, it needs to maintain nice pressure.
 
Well after much research, I'll be using southern polyurethane (SPI) for my epoxy primer, 2k high build, sealer (just reduced epoxy) and for the white and clear. For the red base coat I'll be using Wanda paint. Going to be wildly expensive (to me) but I think it's the proper mid range that I'm going for. I think the total for all the material is going to be around $850-$1000.
 
y5mgisi said:
Well after much research, I'll be using southern polyurethane (SPI) for my epoxy primer, 2k high build, sealer (just reduced epoxy) and for the white and clear. For the red base coat I'll be using Wanda paint. Going to be wildly expensive (to me) but I think it's the proper mid range that I'm going for. I think the total for all the material is going to be around $850-$1000.
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Sounds about right :thumb:
 
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