CK5
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I don't know why you couldn't. You'd still want to weld better mounting plates onto those spuds. 3 bolts per spud plate, 3/8" bolts. If your third leg comes down to the top of the frame, then just a 2 hole plate on the top of the flange. Still use the cross-brace between.

But I'm just thinking of shock use. If these will be used for coilovers maybe bolting isn't good enough.
 
I don't know if I ever will go to coil overs but I want to build it if I switch my mind. I would hate to tear it down and have to redo it again. With this setup, I think I would just have to add the link mounts and be done.
 
Anybody know how well this would hold up? It would be fish platted also off the bump plate. this would be the 3rd leg off the hoops.


joint_zps101196f6.jpg
 
Looks strong as H3LL to me!

But I really dont think you need a 3rd leg with a cross bar


Anybody know how well this would hold up? It would be fish platted also off the bump plate. this would be the 3rd leg off the hoops.


joint_zps101196f6.jpg
 
I would say perhaps you do. Think aboot if you landed hard on one side. It would have no problem transferring that force over to the other hoop and folding it over as well.
 
I would say perhaps you do. Think aboot if you landed hard on one side. It would have no problem transferring that force over to the other hoop and folding it over as well.


Im gonna doubt that.... But possibly.

Some good strong welded hoops, at 2 points each, with good fish plates..


Shocks should soak up alot of the impact. I dont see why a 3rd tube would do any different. If the frames gonna twist with 2.. Its gonna with 3 also.
 
Anybody know how well this would hold up? It would be fish platted also off the bump plate. this would be the 3rd leg off the hoops.


joint_zps101196f6.jpg

If that is the third leg then the lower part is fine. I would add a gusset to extend it all the way to the edge of the top leg ( the top horizontal leg)

This is one place where I am very seriously in favor of overbuilding.

Mainly cause I have had rigs and worked on rigs that I wheeled with for a long time and one thing that comes off more often than you think it shock mounts. On everything Jeeps, Toyotas, Chevys, Fords. After 5 years of hard use it just weakens the metal. So I tend to try to put as much surface area as possible at the mounting points
 
Third leg like that is good. With plates. You could just do the hoops and third leg for now. If you go to coils, add the cross bar. If you land hard on one corner, first you were driving wrong and second the bumps should eat that up.

When I stitch weld on something like that, I cross over and go diagonal and such. Then let it cool completely. Then fill in. Just was shown that by an old welder.
 
Wade, if I'm understanding you correctly stitch weld it around, let cool then fill in the gap between welds?
 
OK thanks you very much.


Got the steel:woot: now time to figure out a template
 
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Here is the piece, 26 inches long.

IMG_20130301_184445_zpsc60a9f77.jpg


IMG_20130226_183550_zpsc00f7a4f.jpg


If you guys get bored draw up some templates for fish plating.
 
Here is a drawing, I like it a lot. The yellow are holes to be cut/ drilled for more weld area, the red is the outline of the plate and the blue is obviously the hoop.


framebrace_zpsbcc0ed79.jpg
 
Wade, think that fish plate design will be enough? I notice now the hoops are a bit off and not even close to the 18 inches.
 
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