CK5
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1985: FrankenBurban 3/4 ton 4x4 grassroots hauler

Long time no update! Well some good news and some bad news.

the good news is that I got that engine in and had it mobile for a bit.

dropped it off with my roommate to take into school (hes a shop teacher)

so it was parked indoors for majority of winter while the students did the following:

T-case fluid
Front axle fluid
Rear Axle fluid
transmission fluid
front sway bar bushings
front sway bar endlinks
intake manifold gasket
idler arm/pitman arm
outer tie rod ends (damn these things were huge!!!!!)
steering dampener
power steering flush
header-back exhaust (not really new piping but modified to fit exisitng leaky exhaust)


All the easy bitch work that I didn't want to do.

Then the engine went out, I heard a low end knocking (like main bearing) but I haven't heard it in a while, right now its got a squeak thats intermittent timing and I'm wondering if a cam lobe is ground down...

and all the TBI electronics are crappy (read corodded connectors, wiring, sensors) making it virtually useless. Roomate came in handy with spare parts so now the engine build has changed.

Q-jet
HEI
edelbrock performer
torn on fuel right now, I really don't want to drop the tank+tank skidplate to go to mechanical pump but I dunno if I have the coin to get a regulator that goes from 18psi-5psi.. I use one on my rx7 that would work but its about a 140 dollar regulator...


SO I gave up with craiglist and got spendy....


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Specifications
4-bolt main with 2-piece rear main seal
Cast iron crankshaft
LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast pistons (dished)
Hydraulic flat tappet cam (.383''/.401'' and 112° lobe separation)
Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers
8.5:1 compression ratio
Block is compatible with left or right side oil dipstick (Requires Plug for Unused Side - Plugs are Included)
4-quart oil pan
350tq, 260hp w/ 4bbl+headers

and free shipping to my door and 3 year 100k mile warranty! But now I need a new flywheel since the rear mains/cranks are different...
 
Very nice! How much?? (Borat)

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Only reason i ask, is cause this guy needs one, lol
(Taken just now)
 
Haha nice picture! He can use my old one as core.

I got it from Jegs for 1500. (w/ free shipping!) I was seeing locally (detroit) rebuilds and remans would range from 1200 to 2500. But this one is new, so an added bonus of no core. I'm trying to sell my current TBI block setup but no nibblers. Anyone in the detroit area wants it, let me know. It comes with extra goodies!

Now it will be infinitely easier to find/buy parts for this (at the auto parts store) since now the chassis and engine year are the same spec.
 
better buy a new radiator and water pump or your warranty is void:waytogo: I read the small print:rolleyes: I have the same exact motor in my kids blazer :thumb: You'll like it... I have a wiend intake and holley truck avenger on it and had the local race shop tune it for economy being my kids first vehicle. It still walks all over my burb:doah: :haha:
 
better buy a new radiator and water pump or your warranty is void:waytogo: I read the small print:rolleyes: I have the same exact motor in my kids blazer :thumb: You'll like it... I have a wiend intake and holley truck avenger on it and had the local race shop tune it for economy being my kids first vehicle. It still walks all over my burb:doah: :haha:

Interesting...

well I have a diesel radiator for it. a new water pump wouldn't be a huge deal. I'm going to read through that warranty information a bit more detailed later on...

also, painted/updated the grille:

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I got a new flywheel from the autoparts store because of the 1 piece to 2 piece rear main seal because of fitment and balancing, but do I need a new harmonic balancer now too??
 
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Out with the "old"
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in with the new!

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got everything in over the weekend, I THINK I have the dizzy installed properly, just need to run power to it and get a fuel line fitting and I should be able to fire it up tonite, then proceed to install the other missing bits...
 
Surely you know you have to break in your cam the moment you fire it up, right?? Or does goodwrench do that for you? (Seems like they would, what with offering a warranty and all) :waytogo:
 
it says to do a break in in the instructions that came with mine.
 
it says to do a break in in the instructions that came with mine.

I mean, if thats the case, you need to ENSURE the distributor is correct, and everythin neeeds to be done. Im not trying to rain on anyones parade, but that first time you fire a motor with a new cam. It needs to fire right up, and immediately be ready to run @ 2000 rpms for about 20 minutes, and NEVER see idle in that time.
Make sure youre also using the zinc (zddp) additive in your oil, as thats a flat tappet motor.
 
it says to do a break in in the instructions that came with mine.

There were no instructions! I was shocked. I did already add the ZDDP additive with the correct oil. I know to run it at 20 minutes about 1800-2000rpm.

well if it doesn't fire right up and it spends some time cranking its not gonna flatten the cam... is it?
 
should be fine. if its cranking for too long somethings wrong and it needs checked. I had to look in up on gm parts web site, it had warratny info and said to do a proper break in. nothing else:dunno: not how to or anything.
 
There were no instructions! I was shocked. I did already add the ZDDP additive with the correct oil. I know to run it at 20 minutes about 1800-2000rpm.

well if it doesn't fire right up and it spends some time cranking its not gonna flatten the cam... is it?

No, but it will wipe alot of the assembly lube off of the cam and lifters. Not enough to make a difference, i wouldnt think. I mean, if you think about it, the motor turning over shouldbt be too big a deal. Especially when you consider you have to turn the motor by hand to set valve lash, bolt up torque converters, etc. I think the starter onoy spins the motor at 300rpm, which isnt squat compared to 2000
 
should be fine. if its cranking for too long somethings wrong and it needs checked. I had to look in up on gm parts web site, it had warratny info and said to do a proper break in. nothing else:dunno: not how to or anything.

Their website is useful as always...:whistle:

Crate motors are supposed to come at cylinder 1 TDC. I did line up the marks and verified that the exhaust valve was closed. My roommate has a 305 on a runstand so its a good surrogate. I think I have his 305 set to TDC exhaust right now. but I have not popped the exhaust manifold off and his rotor point on the dizzy is facing 180 degrees away from mine...

or I have completly installed my wrong (a possibility)

However turning this engine over by hand is difficult because of the compression and everything so fresh. and bumping it with the starter does not sound pleasant without it broken in.
 
Just be confident its in correctly. It most likely wont start at all if its offmore than a tooth. Absolutely wobt start if its 180 out. Bumping a motor over *Ever* is a jank way to do things. Will it wipe out a new cam? No. But its jank.

Anyways, i was initially refering to when you said you were gonna fire it up tonight, then the next day get all the other stuff hooked back up. Almost implying you just wanted to see if it was gonna start ..... fight the temptation!!!! Lol
 
I actually had my kids in backwards at first:whistle: :doah: I spun it around 180 and it fired right up. then I turned the idle screw in to set it at 2000 and let it sit for a half hr. just make sure the choke is open all the way when you set the idle at speed. open manifolds w/short extentions in a little boom box garage:haha: my neighbors LOVED me that day:D

it came out just fine. runs good. I did try it quite a few times before I figured it out... so you'll be fine if its wrong first time around:waytogo:
 
Just be confident its in correctly. It most likely wont start at all if its offmore than a tooth. Absolutely wobt start if its 180 out. Bumping a motor over *Ever* is a jank way to do things. Will it wipe out a new cam? No. But its jank.

Anyways, i was initially refering to when you said you were gonna fire it up tonight, then the next day get all the other stuff hooked back up. Almost implying you just wanted to see if it was gonna start ..... fight the temptation!!!! Lol

whats left to install:

Mainly the fuel line from pump to carb.

Radiator ‘assembly’ (radiator, water pump, shroud, e-fan, hoses) and the accessories (ps pump, alternator, tensioner, idler and ac delete pulley) however, mine are on the stamped steel bracket so you basically R&R all of them at once with a few bolts, when I swapped the motor last time (January) I swapped it to serpentine belt set up because I hate v-belts on these engines, they are always squealing, and a big PITA!! It also looks much cleaner in the engine bay, and easier to service.

I do need (sorta) to cut out the part on the bracket for the air pump for California models. It would make fuel pump and lower radiator hose servicing a bit easier. There is no pump on this but the bracket holds the position for it still.

I’m also under the assumption that the mechanical pump is strong enough to pull through the in tank electric one. If not then I need to drop the factory skid plate and drop the tank which is difficult by myself.
So we shall see….
the proper adjustible fuel pressure regulator for this is the same one I run in my rx7 but its 135 dollars... plus shipping.
 
I actually had my kids in backwards at first:whistle: :doah: I spun it around 180 and it fired right up. then I turned the idle screw in to set it at 2000 and let it sit for a half hr. just make sure the choke is open all the way when you set the idle at speed. open manifolds w/short extentions in a little boom box garage:haha: my neighbors LOVED me that day:D

it came out just fine. runs good. I did try it quite a few times before I figured it out... so you'll be fine if its wrong first time around:waytogo:

Yeah, ive got dual 40series, dumped with a .430 lift cam. Only difference is, i give a sh!t not what my neighbors think. The day i can walk by their houses and not need a tetanus, and/or rabies shot, is the day i start caring. My front yard looks like a damn putting green, theirs.... looks like a version of a dr. Seuss/ twilight zone/ meth benge junk yard... a junkyard that normal junkyards send akk they sh!t they couldnt give away, to.

I sh!t you not, i walked ouy my garage one rainy evening and saw this happen. I laughed hysterically, and almost got my @$$ kicked after i snapped the picture.

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Rant/hijacking over.
 
not by what I was told on here by everyone:dunno: you vary the engine speed on first drives
 
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