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1986 K30 - Rapid Learning

Get 'er cleaned up and solid.
Overview Gallery Discussion
I went to the DMV last Friday, like an idiot. Of course it is closed like everywhere else.

Tonight, I went out and worked for about an hour. It wasn't much time but I hope to do it most nights this week.

First off, I listened to @Capt Ron and got a much bigger hammer and also some new chisels...
Bigger Hammer

Bigger Hammer


The main chisel I used got beak up pretty quick...
Newly Destroyed Chisel

Newly Destroyed Chisel


But, I ended up finally getting the driver's side lower kingpin out.
Lower Kingpin Out

Lower Kingpin Out


I went to try the trick that @sweetk30 mentioned for the passenger side (punch the lower kingpin out from up top). I realized that I don't have a 7/8" hex to get the actual upper kingpin out... so that is going to have to wait for another night. :doah:

The driver's side upper cap and the passenger side lower cap still won't budge. I put some PB Blaster on the studs and into the one empty stud hole on the driver's side. I sprayed into the inside of the knuckle on the passenger side but I doubt that will do much. Just gonna keep going out and gonna keep hammering away.
 
shima said:
I went to the DMV last Friday, like an idiot. Of course it is closed like everywhere else.

Tonight, I went out and worked for about an hour. It wasn't much time but I hope to do it most nights this week.

First off, I listened to @Capt Ron and got a much bigger hammer and also some new chisels...
Bigger Hammer

Bigger Hammer


The main chisel I used got beak up pretty quick...
Newly Destroyed Chisel

Newly Destroyed Chisel


But, I ended up finally getting the driver's side lower kingpin out.
Lower Kingpin Out

Lower Kingpin Out


I went to try the trick that @sweetk30 mentioned for the passenger side (punch the lower kingpin out from up top). I realized that I don't have a 7/8" hex to get the actual upper kingpin out... so that is going to have to wait for another night. :doah:

The driver's side upper cap and the passenger side lower cap still won't budge. I put some PB Blaster on the studs and into the one empty stud hole on the driver's side. I sprayed into the inside of the knuckle on the passenger side but I doubt that will do much. Just gonna keep going out and gonna keep hammering away.
Click to expand...

Those are wood working chisels. Not what you want.
You need some metal chisels.
Like these. download.jpeg
 
dont need to pull the upper king pin . just angle threw the open knuckle hole or turn the kuckle left / right and hit threw the open side area .

and BEFORE you pull the upper king pins post pics . they might be good and NOT need to be changed .

fyi : upper king pin spec is torque them in at 500-600 ft lbs :yikes: . thats 3/4" tool stuff not 1/2 inch drive stuff . here read this king pin id help and tools
 
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Yeah, you better be DAMN committed if you decide to pull the upper king pin. Done it once and even weighing as much as I do getting 500-600 ft-lbs is a trick. I've only done it on an axle out of the truck which adds additional difficulty in holding the axle in place while applying the massive torque.
 
mrk5 said:
Yeah, you better be DAMN committed if you decide to pull the upper king pin. Done it once and even weighing as much as I do getting 500-600 ft-lbs is a trick. I've only done it on an axle out of the truck which adds additional difficulty in holding the axle in place while applying the massive torque.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't even bother with the thought without a torque multiplier wrench.
For the op of this thread I'll link a cheap one.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...gUCU5xsoAP7F5jHTlrWgoTWpR4i5vqmUaAj9fEALw_wcB
 
beags86 said:
I wouldn't even bother with the thought without a torque multiplier wrench.
For the op of this thread I'll link a cheap one.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Wrenches > Torque Wrenches&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=41488&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Iv0BRDaARIsAGTWD1s4lxInTHv0sZkAaN8ETllgUCU5xsoAP7F5jHTlrWgoTWpR4i5vqmUaAj9fEALw_wcB
Click to expand...
I made a homemade 3ft multiplier with a 200ft-lbs torque wrench. It was definitely a 2 man job.
 
beags86 said:
I wouldn't even bother with the thought without a torque multiplier wrench.
For the op of this thread I'll link a cheap one.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Wrenches > Torque Wrenches&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=41488&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Iv0BRDaARIsAGTWD1s4lxInTHv0sZkAaN8ETllgUCU5xsoAP7F5jHTlrWgoTWpR4i5vqmUaAj9fEALw_wcB
Click to expand...
That's not a cheap one.
Anyway I have a big impact that I use for my big rig and it has 3 settings 550, 950, 1500ft. lbs
I also have a cheap torque multiplier that I paid $60 for, I use it if I don't have access to air.
This is an example
https://www.mfrexpress.com/automoti...u7xx3eZgYVjxVdB97Oslqbig2v6ae3vsaAgN6EALw_wcB
 
sweetk30 said:
dont need to pull the upper king pin . just angle threw the open knuckle hole or turn the kuckle left / right and hit threw the open side area .
and BEFORE you pull the upper king pins post pics . they might be good and NOT need to be changed .
fyi : upper king pin spec is torque them in at 500-600 ft lbs :yikes: . thats 3/4" tool stuff not 1/2 inch drive stuff . here read this xxx
Click to expand...
Thanks man! I appreciate the link, that is super informative... and yeah I will give it a try from the side.

mrk5 said:
Yeah, you better be DAMN committed if you decide to pull the upper king pin. Done it once and even weighing as much as I do getting 500-600 ft-lbs is a trick. I've only done it on an axle out of the truck which adds additional difficulty in holding the axle in place while applying the massive torque.
Click to expand...
Hah, good to know... I don't think I'll do it. Hopefully the upper kingpins are in good shape... I'll take a photo once I get the knuckle off.

beags86 said:
I wouldn't even bother with the thought without a torque multiplier wrench.
For the op of this thread I'll link a cheap one.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200623947_200623947?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Wrenches > Torque Wrenches&utm_campaign=Klutch&utm_content=41488&&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1Iv0BRDaARIsAGTWD1s4lxInTHv0sZkAaN8ETllgUCU5xsoAP7F5jHTlrWgoTWpR4i5vqmUaAj9fEALw_wcB
Click to expand...
Crap that is expensive. I guess it makes sense though.
 
If we ever get let out of our boxes again, look for chisels at the pawn or the flea market

Snap on, matco, mac, Cornwall

the ones they sell at the box stores are disposable

@Justin V recently did the d60 game, and got those out. But he said words I can’t repeat
 
imiceman44 said:
That's not a cheap one.
Anyway I have a big impact that I use for my big rig and it has 3 settings 550, 950, 1500ft. lbs
I also have a cheap torque multiplier that I paid $60 for, I use it if I don't have access to air.
This is an example
https://www.mfrexpress.com/automoti...u7xx3eZgYVjxVdB97Oslqbig2v6ae3vsaAgN6EALw_wcB
Click to expand...
I suppose that would work. Just technically that a tool it for lug nuts.
I just learned the old fashioned way. And am used to using a ratchet wrench style with a handle.
Just so you know, @shima I just linked the first one that popped up. After looking a bit I found one for 57 bucks the same style. No handle. You would need to supply a pipe for a handle.
 
beags86 said:
I suppose that would work. Just technically that a tool it for lug nuts.
I just learned the old fashioned way. And am used to using a ratchet wrench style with a handle.
Just so you know, @shima I just linked the first one that popped up. After looking a bit I found one for 57 bucks the same style. No handle. You would need to supply a pipe for a handle.
Click to expand...
That's more like it for the occasional use it is not bad.
Yeah I use mine for lug nuts and it's 1" sockets but with the right adapter it can work on anything.
 
imiceman44 said:
That's more like it for the occasional use it is not bad.
Yeah I use mine for lug nuts and it's 1" sockets but with the right adapter it can work on anything.
Click to expand...

I had one in my arsenal when I was a semi tire tech.
Luckily I never needed it because my 2000 foot-pound 1 inch spline drive impact was enough......
 
beags86 said:
I had one in my arsenal when I was a semi tire tech.
Luckily I never needed it because my 2000 foot-pound 1 inch spline drive impact was enough......
Click to expand...
Oh my impacts are plenty.
One is 2500 it's a twin hammer and long shaft and the one I use most is the 1500.
This multiplier is for when I got a dead engine or battery and I need to get tires removed.
I did that recently on my truck and trailer parked in storage
 
tire shops for big trucks have a torque wrench for 600-800 ft lb's for big truck lug nuts . so they are out there .

( pics in link above ) i have a 200-600 ft lb 3/4" drive in my box . and the 3/4" ratchet and longest handle they offer for it and a 5ft length of galvanized pipe for a cheeter . and when they pop loose they POP loose .
 
sweetk30 said:
tire shops for big trucks have a torque wrench for 600-800 ft lb's for big truck lug nuts . so they are out there .

( pics in link above ) i have a 200-600 ft lb 3/4" drive in my box . and the 3/4" ratchet and longest handle they offer for it and a 5ft length of galvanized pipe for a cheeter . and when they pop loose they POP loose .
Click to expand...
I got a 1,000ft lbs torque wrench for structural steel bolts at work now. I thought truck stuff was big until I got into building high-rises.
but none of that matters. it's unreasonable think that the original poster is going to go and get a 800 to a thousand pound torque wrench, a cheap torque multipliers what he needs.
 
if he even needs to swap in new king pins .WE NEED to wait for pics of his pins to give him the info he needs .

i use to build subway cars back in the late 90's and the 4 main coupler bolts were 1 1/4" dia and 1,365 ft lb with red loctight and nylock nut on each one . . . . :eek:
 
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