Do you think the brake lines are worth the price? Or would you do something different next time? I'm gonna have the body off my truck in the near future, and was wondering whether it would be worth it to do this...
CK5
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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
Looks good Nick! 
I guess you don't have air...do you think Rene`s descaler would work good for that frame cleaning?
I guess you don't have air...do you think Rene`s descaler would work good for that frame cleaning?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Sucks about the finger! That por ought to keep your frame from getting nasty!
Looks good Nick!
I guess you don't have air...do you think Rene`s descaler would work good for that frame cleaning?
Yea it sucks not having air. Its all being done with grinder, wire cup brush and grinding disk for the crappy areas. Im going to see how far along i get without it, but he has offered to lend it to me and i have thought about lugging it over here and using his needler for the tricky spots.
To me the brake lines were worth it. Not only am i able to eliminate my ABS clutter that never worked anyway it also just makes the re installation so much nicer. Being in america would make it even more worth it, without the crappy conversion rate i had to pay. I think the lines were only two something, if that. May have been cheaper. I would hate to be reusing my old lines. Im not sure how bad yours are but mine are original and it definitely showed.
Yea it was a crappy finger to mess up, stupid index fingers!
im hoping the por15 and never being winter driven much again , really helps the frame out. I have quite a bit more rust repair to do, but for now i can stop worrying about the frame, when this is done.
All in all, its a million times better than it was, so its progress!
Looks good Nick!
I guess you don't have air...do you think Rene`s descaler would work good for that frame cleaning?
I've offered up my compressor and needle scaler a few times. I won't be needing either for the next couple of weeks anyways. Nick loves to help, but is less enthusiastic about accepting help sometimes.
Hey Nick...nobody is keeping score.
I've offered up my compressor and needle scaler a few times. I won't be needing either for the next couple of weeks anyways. Nick loves to help, but is less enthusiastic about accepting help sometimes.
Hey Nick...nobody is keeping score.
haha i know..... not one of my best quality's.. but i also remember using it at your place and not being all that fond of it.. i should be doing a frame off instead..
i also find the por15 is runny and clumps in areas as it comes off the brush. Definitely worthy of finding a way to spray it.It really sucks that the truck is in one piece... it would be so much easier without all this crap in my way..
Been there, done that....with the finger nail before. Tis a fun time
So its been quite awhile since i have been on here.. Life through me into a different path of dirt biking all summer and into the fall.. i kinda left my blazer alone for awhile, while i built up the fire inside again to wrench on it. Also, with the oil price dropping like flies, money has been super tight. The weather here in the winter being about -20/-35, and my garage not being heated... winter is usually a dead time in the garage.
I had painted the por 15'd frame and installed all my new lines before i disappeared for quite some time.
I will take photos and post later for my documentation...
I am planning to move to BC come june so my list of to dos has changed quite a bit. I was very focused on the axles, and saving up for that, but since that is quite expensive, and not needed right now...Ive chosen to tackle some other issues first.
-Doors
-Whatever rust repair i can do
-Drive shaft length in front, and rear, to obtain perfect driveline angle.
- SM465 oil change, and to add the new PTO covers i got from NWF ( north west fabricators )
- Np241 oil change.
- Solid tie rod swap ( rock rod, or something similar, like the one i got off the 3/4 ton )
Im sure i will add to that list when things come to me. I have 3-4 months to tackle them.
Today was warm, it hovered around -5/+1 for the afternoon and I was hoping to change the sm465 oil. So i drove it around, trying to use second, and third the most. Hoping that would get the bigger gears moving and warm up the oil. I drove it to the store to get gear oil.... I started doing research and found that some people say the RP synchromax and other "high" quality gear lubes are rated for GL-5 transmissions, and the additives contain sulphur, which eats at the synchros... not sure if this is true or not ,but it seems impossible to find gear oil rated for GL-4..since they are so old at the store atleast. Anyone had any experience with this and if not what have you been using in your muncies?
Anyway... i have been on the hunt for inner fenders, since i had switched my current game plan with this truck, and since our dollar isn't worth the material its made from... I have been neglecting using any US distributors.. I found a couple places, but they are only open typical Mon-Friday 9-5.. and i am always working those hours.. I lucked out today and found a local body shop thats open saturdays , and that will order them in for 79$ dollars a side. So today i started to remove the old ones so that by next saturday the truck is prepped for install.
I sprayed down all the bolts with seafoam penetrate..
IMG_7567
This original jack holder was a little tough to undo.. took a hammer and a chisel to get the wing nut loose.
IMG_7568
IMG_7563
Removed all the hardware that is attached.
Only broke two of the bolts....
These were the coolant reserve bolts.
IMG_7590
IMG_7575
These frame bolts were solid ass a rock.. nothing a snipe can't fix
IMG_7579
Most of them came out pretty easy, after being soaked with penetrating spray. The areas where the factory double wall is, was rotted right through. For the new ones, has anyone siliconed the edges, or put anything to prevent the water buildup that causes these two spots to rust first? By double walling them, they clearly made a weak point in the design.. Reinforcing the back side for support seems like a better idea
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6F21H]
And once i got all the bolts out they dropped right out
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGLxi8]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6FpFH]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6F4yt]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DtL4uG]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGEpu5]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGS1s8]
I then noticed how awful my battery tray looked without the backdrop and light shining through, so figured it shine it up for reinstall since i might as well do it now.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6Fskk]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DBRyss]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Dd45G1]
And then i gave it a quick shot of paint
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DBWqaq]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGS6Ja]
I know this isn't much work, but it felt soon good to get back into the garage and do some work to HER!!!!
It'll be nice to get back into the garage tomorrow and pick up where i left off
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DEfJfV]
[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url]
I had painted the por 15'd frame and installed all my new lines before i disappeared for quite some time.
I will take photos and post later for my documentation...
I am planning to move to BC come june so my list of to dos has changed quite a bit. I was very focused on the axles, and saving up for that, but since that is quite expensive, and not needed right now...Ive chosen to tackle some other issues first.
-Doors
-Whatever rust repair i can do
-Drive shaft length in front, and rear, to obtain perfect driveline angle.
- SM465 oil change, and to add the new PTO covers i got from NWF ( north west fabricators )
- Np241 oil change.
- Solid tie rod swap ( rock rod, or something similar, like the one i got off the 3/4 ton )
Im sure i will add to that list when things come to me. I have 3-4 months to tackle them.
Today was warm, it hovered around -5/+1 for the afternoon and I was hoping to change the sm465 oil. So i drove it around, trying to use second, and third the most. Hoping that would get the bigger gears moving and warm up the oil. I drove it to the store to get gear oil.... I started doing research and found that some people say the RP synchromax and other "high" quality gear lubes are rated for GL-5 transmissions, and the additives contain sulphur, which eats at the synchros... not sure if this is true or not ,but it seems impossible to find gear oil rated for GL-4..since they are so old at the store atleast. Anyone had any experience with this and if not what have you been using in your muncies?
Anyway... i have been on the hunt for inner fenders, since i had switched my current game plan with this truck, and since our dollar isn't worth the material its made from... I have been neglecting using any US distributors.. I found a couple places, but they are only open typical Mon-Friday 9-5.. and i am always working those hours..
I lucked out today and found a local body shop thats open saturdays , and that will order them in for 79$ dollars a side. So today i started to remove the old ones so that by next saturday the truck is prepped for install.I sprayed down all the bolts with seafoam penetrate..
IMG_7567This original jack holder was a little tough to undo.. took a hammer and a chisel to get the wing nut loose.
IMG_7568IMG_7563Removed all the hardware that is attached.
Only broke two of the bolts....
These were the coolant reserve bolts.
IMG_7590IMG_7575These frame bolts were solid ass a rock.. nothing a snipe can't fix
IMG_7579Most of them came out pretty easy, after being soaked with penetrating spray. The areas where the factory double wall is, was rotted right through. For the new ones, has anyone siliconed the edges, or put anything to prevent the water buildup that causes these two spots to rust first? By double walling them, they clearly made a weak point in the design.. Reinforcing the back side for support seems like a better idea
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6F21H]
And once i got all the bolts out they dropped right out
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGLxi8]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6FpFH]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6F4yt]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DtL4uG]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGEpu5]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGS1s8]
I then noticed how awful my battery tray looked without the backdrop and light shining through, so figured it shine it up for reinstall since i might as well do it now.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D6Fskk]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DBRyss]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Dd45G1]
And then i gave it a quick shot of paint
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DBWqaq]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/CGS6Ja]
I know this isn't much work, but it felt soon good to get back into the garage and do some work to HER!!!!
It'll be nice to get back into the garage tomorrow and pick up where i left off
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DEfJfV]
[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url]
I'd try a small bead of silicone on that doubler piece. Can't hurt...
Why not spritz your calipers black while the wheels are off?
I might swing by tomorrow and say hi. Gonna be scraping crud off my Pontiac for a while too...
Why not spritz your calipers black while the wheels are off?
I might swing by tomorrow and say hi. Gonna be scraping crud off my Pontiac for a while too...
For SM465 lube, gear oil is all that it needs. No fancy syncromesh just 80-90w. I'd run the lightest gear oil you can find as the lighter the oil the easier it is to shift cold and that matters in Canada.
Thats what i figured. In the part of BC i am planning to move too, has warmer climate but id still like to be prepared for the cold. Its hard to find just plain 80-90 gear oil,thats not synthetic, and full of bullshit additives. Ill keep looking around... just ansy to put these PTO covers on and know my oil is changed and good to go.
Last edited:
Try NAPA maybe?
So today i got back into the garage for a few hours to do some small cheap things... I figured i would tackle the trans oil, PTO covers, and possibly some other small things.. It was minus 5 degrees today so it was decently nice, don't know what temp it was in the garage but it felt colder. I went to the local NAPA and found some GL-4/5 rated gear oil 80-90 that wasn't synthetic, thread locker, and some other small items.
So i crawled under and gave the PTO covers a quick buff with the wire cup brush, to get the crap off.
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DvKEWd]
Once i drained the trans, and confirmed it was filled with gear oil ( in some of the muncie information sites I've read, it states some were filled with a mercon fluid like ATF ). I then removed the PTO covers, to take a quick looks inside and feel with my fingers if there was any large amount of metal shavings, or any bad news laying on the bottom.. The drain plug is not magnetic but there was some metal on the bottom, but not anything id consider bad.. I tried to get as much out with my fingers as i could since the drain hole does leave a little room at the bottoms for old fluid, and crud
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTVec]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxU7np]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Df3F6w]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DGaq1X]
Since it all seemed good, i then prepped the PTO covers to be put on, and installed them.
[/url][/url][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/DxU7np][url=https://flic.kr/p/Df3F6w][url=https://flic.kr/p/DGaq1X]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D8EQN6]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DDQDg5]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTjJR]
Now it was time to refill the trans. The Y pipe made it hard to get a bottle in there, id be squeezing uphill and in.. and especially with cold gear oil i figured that'd suck... so i managed to find a brake fluid bottle that fit the spout cap of the gear oil bottle to make things easier.. I also decided using a tiger torch to heat up the gear oil was a good idea...
[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DvKEWd][url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTVec][url=https://flic.kr/p/DxU7np][url=https://flic.kr/p/Df3F6w][url=https://flic.kr/p/DGaq1X][url=https://flic.kr/p/D8EQN6][url=https://flic.kr/p/DDQDg5][url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTjJR]So i crawled under and gave the PTO covers a quick buff with the wire cup brush, to get the crap off.
Does anyone know what this connector is for.. i looked in my Haynes manual and didn't find anything.
It splits off from the wiring that heads to the rear, and hangs right where the transmission is?[url=https://flic.kr/p/DvKEWd]
Once i drained the trans, and confirmed it was filled with gear oil ( in some of the muncie information sites I've read, it states some were filled with a mercon fluid like ATF ). I then removed the PTO covers, to take a quick looks inside and feel with my fingers if there was any large amount of metal shavings, or any bad news laying on the bottom.. The drain plug is not magnetic but there was some metal on the bottom, but not anything id consider bad.. I tried to get as much out with my fingers as i could since the drain hole does leave a little room at the bottoms for old fluid, and crud
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTVec]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxU7np]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/Df3F6w]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DGaq1X]
Since it all seemed good, i then prepped the PTO covers to be put on, and installed them.
[/url][/url][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/DxU7np][url=https://flic.kr/p/Df3F6w][url=https://flic.kr/p/DGaq1X]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D8EQN6]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DDQDg5]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DxTjJR]
Now it was time to refill the trans. The Y pipe made it hard to get a bottle in there, id be squeezing uphill and in.. and especially with cold gear oil i figured that'd suck... so i managed to find a brake fluid bottle that fit the spout cap of the gear oil bottle to make things easier.. I also decided using a tiger torch to heat up the gear oil was a good idea...
[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DG9WbZ]
[url=https://flic.kr/p/DG9MQv]
And just because those fuggin' ugly red rotors had to go i spritzed them with some black, just to save my retinas from the ugliness, whoever thought red rotors and drums on a blue truck would look good, should be shot ( atleast these shades of the color )
[url=https://flic.kr/p/D8EfJz]
I know its nothing major for an update, and the fun stuff has been put on hold (axles...
) but atleast somethings getting done while i wait for the weekend to arrive, and pick up the new inner fenders. Im trying to think of other things that would be good to do while the inners are out...
[/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url][/url]
Much easier to install a LSX454 with the inner fenders out. 
Glad to see black calipers finally. Good job!
Glad to see black calipers finally. Good job!
I could scrap the Bc plans, sell everything i own, and buy one....
pffft, you crane operators are rolling it...
not dumb ones like me, who bought a brand new pos truck... the things i could have done to the blazer for the payments im making on that thing.. LESSON LEARNED!!!
I might try and borrow your welder.... and make it worth your while with a full tank if you need it....( if not we can work something out ) to do some cheap, and needed floor pan patches while the inners are out, and i don't have much money...
I have the tenth off so i was thinking of going, and getting some sheet metal, and doing the 2-3 in need patches. They will be hidden and my welding skills won't show
ill stop by sometime and pick your brain about the procedures for those spots if you'd be up for it, i know you will be using it for the front frame of the pontiac, so obviously anytime once you're done with it.
and make it worth your while with a full tank if you need it....( if not we can work something out ) to do some cheap, and needed floor pan patches while the inners are out, and i don't have much money...I have the tenth off so i was thinking of going, and getting some sheet metal, and doing the 2-3 in need patches. They will be hidden and my welding skills won't show
ill stop by sometime and pick your brain about the procedures for those spots if you'd be up for it, i know you will be using it for the front frame of the pontiac, so obviously anytime once you're done with it.
