good to know they are pretty junky set up... definitely not worth the extra cash for the parking brake feature then. Glad to have an sm465 for parking brake but still not my fav method
CK5
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1990 K5 Build ( Ol' Blue ) : Rocker rust...
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
good to know they are pretty junky set up... definitely not worth the extra cash for the parking brake feature then. Glad to have an sm465 for parking brake but still not my fav method
That website offers the kit with or without parking brake calipers.
Those brackets are for the standard 73-87 front calipers so they wouldn't work with the newer style I'm talking about. What you'd need is the 4 bolt flange that's already there to be spaced and clocked correctly. I have no idea how close the ones on our drum brake style 14bsf are to where they need to be though.
I have a complete but tore apart flat top knuckle dana 44 with the correct gears that I might just rebuild and swap for my 10 bolt. I'm the same way, I wanna use my blazer but its almost rust free so I don't want to smash it and destroy it in places I would need a 60. Plus my gutless 6.2L won't ever have enough power to break my front axle.
I’ve got no complaints about the eldo’s on my 97, they hold the truck just fine when I’m at the boat launch
I’ve got no complaints about the eldo’s on my 97, they hold the truck just fine when I’m at the boat launch
yea? hmm i wish i could test them out without paying the extra 200 USD in that kit for them. might junk junkyard a pair and see how they work?
Good luck finding a pair in the junkyard...
I bought my calipers from tsm. Payed way to much for them fwiw.
You can buy the calipers new at most part stores for fairly cheap. Just no brackets come with them for the e brake cables.
Wouldn’t be to bad to fab your own brackets. I just didnt have time to mess with them when I sas’d the truck.
You can buy the calipers new at most part stores for fairly cheap. Just no brackets come with them for the e brake cables.
Wouldn’t be to bad to fab your own brackets. I just didnt have time to mess with them when I sas’d the truck.
So the extra 150 bucks for the calipers with the E brake isnt the worst deal then?
when i re read that i realize how silly thats sounds. haha i only have 1 junkyard to go to locally which makes it EVEN worse..
ahhh just what i needed. ill put it on the list of things to buy when if i find an LS. The heads were toast on that motor anyway cuz the piston made contact with the combustion chamber, bent the spark plug tip back and fandoogled the valve and what not. I didnt really know that 100% at the time but i knew it didnt run for a reason.
I’ll post these here since it was a Facebook thing earlier today that’s being talked about.
So I’ve been making a list for all the LS parts I’ll need for the swap and the builds here have been so helpful but something I haven’t been able to find much is when I keep my sm465 behind it, how much foreword or backwards it’ll set the motor, one huge thing that will kill this project idea at the moment is having a new driveline made... money is very tight so I’m hoping I can keep my existing driveline with maybe a slight modification of the crossmemeber location but not enough to ruin the slip in the yokes. I have found great info on mating the 465 to the LS but many of the builds I’ve found where guys are doing that it wasn’t a stock sm465. Are there any builds kicking around when someone had a sm465/350 combo and just switched out the motor?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
TreeFarm
Internet fabricator.
My build is a stock 465 in the stock location. I used a clutch that matched my truck and used a 2006 6.0 fly wheel on the engine. Advanced adapters motor mount plates will convert the Ls to 3 bolt sbc mounts and place the engine in the same location as the one you pulled out. The heads will be close to the firewall. With brand new body mounts I have 1/4" betaeen the heads and the lip on the bottom of the firewall.
Check out my build .it's all documented with part numbers and all
Check out my build .it's all documented with part numbers and all
Awesome thanks! Just wasn’t sure if the trans had to moved foreword or back depending on block size of the LS in the stock SBC location. This will make the swap way more affordable.
So this is sort of an embaressing question in a wa. I for some reason dont really see how these old school spicer hubs are supposed to engage. I have the skematics of the parts involved on my phone, but im having a blond moment by not understanding how this spring is supposed to keep the hub engaged, and not disengaged, if i have that theory correct. i also know they arent together correctly because i dont see how to get the bevel cut gears from the inner gear facing the bevel gears of the outter gear. If i seat the outer gear so the bevel gears are facing the inner gears bevelled teeth, the hub wont disengage because the actuator piece doesnt allow it to slide back towards the dial enough to disengage fully. I have had no luck finding any installation info, only external hub spicer stuff.
Unlocked with the outer gear not engaged to the shaft gear.
Locked with the two together.
Note the position of the knob on the actuator ring.
The spring pushes the outer gear out all the time. The knob pushes on the actuator ring and slides the outer gear in and out.
The actuator ring with the two folded over tabs pushes on the outer gear. That being pushed on by the knob engaged the two gears.
The teeth are beveled and help engage the two gears together.
Locked with the two together.
Note the position of the knob on the actuator ring.
The spring pushes the outer gear out all the time. The knob pushes on the actuator ring and slides the outer gear in and out.
The actuator ring with the two folded over tabs pushes on the outer gear. That being pushed on by the knob engaged the two gears.
The teeth are beveled and help engage the two gears together.
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Thanks for the photos, I think I have same set up despite the differences in our lockouts. Is that for a d60?
The first and second photo are mine in the unlocked position and I have a beveled cog on the shaft gear facing a flat cog on the outer gear so they don’t want to mesh easily. If I flip my outter gear around so the bevel is facing the bevel of the shaft gear, it doesn’t allow the actuator to disengage the hub and also has no seat for the spring. Third photo is the two gears meshed simulating being locked.
The first and second photo are mine in the unlocked position and I have a beveled cog on the shaft gear facing a flat cog on the outer gear so they don’t want to mesh easily. If I flip my outter gear around so the bevel is facing the bevel of the shaft gear, it doesn’t allow the actuator to disengage the hub and also has no seat for the spring. Third photo is the two gears meshed simulating being locked.
