The intake is a Edelbrock Torker II. PM me with an offer and it's yours once I take it off the engine. Pretty sure this is the same one in my photo. Mine had an aluminum spacer too.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5061/make/chevrolet
CK5
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468 BB Chevy - What is this worth?
- Thread starter ZombieK5
- Start date
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-5061/make/chevrolet
OK gentlemen. Decision time approaching.
Talked to the machinist and it will be $1,000+/- for both heads to be reworked and new hardware installed. The block will be $1,000 or less depending on what it needs.
I am looking to go with Brodix heads now with the larger valves. Seems to make sense that for a few $100 more I can have all new upgraded heads. I'll still need rockers and push rods but even so, it will be all new vs rebuilt.
Will sell the heads locally and use the proceeds to offset the new roller rockers.
Engine out tomorrow unless i get a steady downpour. Weather calls for rain but I'm set on doing this!
Talked to the machinist and it will be $1,000+/- for both heads to be reworked and new hardware installed. The block will be $1,000 or less depending on what it needs.
I am looking to go with Brodix heads now with the larger valves. Seems to make sense that for a few $100 more I can have all new upgraded heads. I'll still need rockers and push rods but even so, it will be all new vs rebuilt.
Will sell the heads locally and use the proceeds to offset the new roller rockers.
Engine out tomorrow unless i get a steady downpour. Weather calls for rain but I'm set on doing this!
Was looking at these along with one piece push rods and Comp Cams Ultra rockers.
Yea, the whole "Each" thing sucks but it is what it is.
No choice on cam yet. I want to see what I am doing with the pistons (new and larger or same and new rings). I have folkenheath helping/recommending/advising on the build....but your $.02 is very wanted. This is gonna be a village project so the more the merrier.
Stay tuned for tomorrow and an update on the engine removal. Might try to remove the heads if all goes well with the removal. Thursday for sure I will get the pan off for an idea on the crank!
You need to pick the cam/head/intake/gears as a unit. Don't get anything until you have a 'holistic' plan.
That seems like a steep quote for the machinist not even seeing the heads yet.
Martin
Martin
ENGINE REMOVAL UPDATE
Engine came out....and I never knew an engine could hold so much antifreeze. I have a container with several gallons and at least another gallon was released all over my driveway and garage floor. I even got some into a bucket.
So here we go. I have photos below that include:
Valves
Lifters
Crankshaft
Pistons - Top and Bottom
From my view it looks like I DO NOT HAVE a roller cam but I will be putting one in.
I do not see a seam in the crank to suggest it is cast however there are numbers cast into it. There is a GM number GM 353039. Some quick research shows it is a 2 piece and it has a 4" stroke and was originally installed in a 454.
So, Keep this crank or swap out for a new cast or forged crank?
The pistons were correctly found to have part number L2399 030 They also appear to be Speed Pro pistons and a new set is about $560. Thinking I will keep these if I can
The cylinder bores look a little worn. There does not appear to be much of a crosshatch pattern left and parts of the bore seem polished. Not sure if these can be honed to keep the same pistons or if I need to move up to a .40 bore.
The push rods were one piece and the rocker ends were polished from usage.
I posted several photos...please give me your thoughts and ideas! GOOD and BAD thoughts are fine.
Question on the Heads. While I am leaning towards new Brodix heads, I have a question. I noticed on both heads there were "holes" that seemed to have been knocked out of the head in several parts. It is like someone took a hammer and beat the head till parts broke through. Is this normal??
Got a pic of the crank on the small side opposite of the big throw? That’s the easiest place to see the thick or thin casting line.
Definitely not a roller cam.
Those pistons are a WIN
Definitely not a roller cam.
Those pistons are a WIN
I found the crank on a Chevy parts ID site and it is a 2 piece cast crank....sad
I'll probably use it unless the machinist find something unusual. I can tell about the connecting rods
Those rough holes in the corners are normal. They are oil drain holes that are left rough by the manufacturer. Some people grind them smooth-ish during an overhaul to improve the speed of oil drain back but there’s no performance gain on a typical street motor.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
It seems like after the cost of Brodix heads, machine work, misc parts, efi etc... You might as well buy a 500hp E rod LS3 for $8500 and get a warranty with it. I know this is a big block thread but you’re getting close to that price range.
I don't think so. $2200 for the heads and $700 for parts (gaskets, oil pump, rockers) and $1000 +/- for block and crank work. I actually enjoy building engines and there is a certain amount of pride in building it. I was going to buy a 383 Smeading Engine but these guys talked me into rebuilding the Big Block. It will have extra meaning once done.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
I hear ya and I agree building your own motor is satisfying. But don’t forget about the cost of the EFI and all the unknowns once you start digging in. The ole snowball always gets bigger. And hopefully you have a good machinist that you trust.
Well, it should all be fine. This project was the agreed upon solution at my house. Wanted a $70,000 2500 HD Diesel which is outrageous. Was able to agree with my wife that this project will be cheaper, more fun (for me) and the end product will be much "cooler" thank a new truck. Yes, I need to factor in the EFI.
Gentleman Jimmy
1/2 ton status
Thats a good choice. I had the similar choice when I built my Jimmy and am glad I went that route too. I’m rooting for you as this will be a sweet motor when you’re done, just wanted to put an alternative in perspective.
Agreed. Would be a nice new engine... But our trucks have a certsin aura about them and an old school Big Block just sounds right. These guys sold me on this route so I blame them but they didn't have to twist my arm too hard. Please keep the "alternatives" coming... I want to hear all ideas.
A 500 HP erod LS3 won't have the torque of the big block, even if it's so mild it only makes 500 HP. IT will still feel like a 500 HP small block, not a 500 HP big block.
It appears those rods are 3/8" rod bolts, not 7/16"? With good ARP it may not matter if you keep the RPM low. Obviously the 7/16" are stronger, I just don't think I'd put the resize money and bolts into the 3/8" rods.
On the pistons, does that 030 mean they are .030" over I take it, what's the bore? If so, good news.
For the crank, same boat, stock cast cranks can take quite a bit, and will likely be fine. In fact, when I rebuilt mine I used a cast steel crank, its a little stronger than the cast iron stock cranks.
It depends on your budget. If you decide to replace the crank, then the cost of a 4.25" crank is pretty much the same, however, you would need new pistons at a minimum if you stroke it, and at that point, a complete rotating assembly may be more cost effective.
I'll add more tomorrow while you ponder that and measure the rod bolts.
It appears those rods are 3/8" rod bolts, not 7/16"? With good ARP it may not matter if you keep the RPM low. Obviously the 7/16" are stronger, I just don't think I'd put the resize money and bolts into the 3/8" rods.
On the pistons, does that 030 mean they are .030" over I take it, what's the bore? If so, good news.
For the crank, same boat, stock cast cranks can take quite a bit, and will likely be fine. In fact, when I rebuilt mine I used a cast steel crank, its a little stronger than the cast iron stock cranks.
It depends on your budget. If you decide to replace the crank, then the cost of a 4.25" crank is pretty much the same, however, you would need new pistons at a minimum if you stroke it, and at that point, a complete rotating assembly may be more cost effective.
I'll add more tomorrow while you ponder that and measure the rod bolts.
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