/sigh you were right. just got done talking to the inspector. he wants rock on the outside of the walls as well.
just add another $400 to the cost.
Sorry Bro..
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Sorry Bro..
quick question: did they make you do the fire rock on both sides, or just outside? also, did you have to buy that special exterior rock? that **** is expensive!
It should be just the outside. That is the side that they want protection on. The inside wouldn't really matter. If the fire gets thought the outer, it's going to burn up the cavity, top plate and the rest. Did he make you do the eave/soffit?
You should be able to get away with reg. type x 5/8's. See if you can tyvek over it, that way it has moisture protection. What type of siding are you going to use/ required to use?
On a side note: I just got busted on a 4 way today. I guess it's been code that the new fart fans need to be humidity controlled. None of the depot fans meet this requirement. Haha, live, learn, buy it and do it twice...
Edit: you maybe able to lessen the cost if you use type x 1/2" but it's up to the inspector. From what I read it's only good for 45 min.
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/faqs/gypboard.htm#a2
Last edited:
cool. I'm going to talk to the city about using regular 5/8 stuff. should save me about $10 a sheet. plus, I already have the 5/8 stuff, since I bought it to use on the inside. I have plenty of the house wrap left too.
I'm not sure if there is anything specific required, but I'll be using vinyl siding.
TMI dude!
I'm pretty sure I need 1 hour, but I'll check into that too.
thanks for the link.
just got back from talking to the city. 5/8 inside and out. 
yup, turns out I have to do that too.
just got back from talking to the city. 5/8 inside and out.
That really makes no sense, but as you know....
Are they making you fire tape it also?
Originally Posted by NorCal69
Did he make you do the eave/soffit?
yup, turns out I have to do that too.
I kinda figured he would make you do the eaves. Could you use a Hardie product instead of the type X? We use a lot of that (4x8 sheets cut in half for a 2' soffit) when we are doing Hardie Lap siding.
There goes any way to eave vent this also. Maybe a couple of gable vents and eyebrow vents? You'll want 1 sf for every 150 cf of attic space for ventilation.
Also remember when you have everything installed and the new house wrap over the type x, I would use a flashing before the vinyl siding. I would put it on the bottom before you install the metal vinyl siding starter and down the corners.
I don't care who you are, or how you install it, vinyl leaks. That's the reason they have weep holes on the bottom of every piece. The bottom piece would be for rain splash up and the corners just because wind driven rain will get in there.
Remember to hang your vinyl and not to nail it. Leave an 1/8" of play between the siding and the shear when you install it. It needs to be able to expand and contract or it WILL buckle.
Here is some great flashing. I can''t tell you how much I like Grace. Back when I was a union roofer we would install it by the pallet.
This is just a cut down version of the full 3' roll.
Zoom View
Share
Email
PrintW.R. Grace 9 in. x 75 ft. Vycor Plus Flexible Flashing
Model # 5003106
Internet # 203057406
Write the first review
Share this product
$35.00 /RL-Roll
$35.00 /RL-Roll
Ships FREE with $45.00 Order
This item cannot be shipped to the following state(s): AK,AK,HI,GU,HI,PR,VI
I don't care who you are, or how you install it, vinyl leaks. That's the reason they have weep holes on the bottom of every piece. The bottom piece would be for rain splash up and the corners just because wind driven rain will get in there.
Remember to hang your vinyl and not to nail it. Leave an 1/8" of play between the siding and the shear when you install it. It needs to be able to expand and contract or it WILL buckle.
Here is some great flashing. I can''t tell you how much I like Grace. Back when I was a union roofer we would install it by the pallet.
This is just a cut down version of the full 3' roll.
Zoom View Share
Email PrintW.R. Grace 9 in. x 75 ft. Vycor Plus Flexible Flashing Model # 5003106
Internet # 203057406
Write the first review
Share this product
$35.00 /RL-Roll
$35.00 /RL-Roll
Ships FREE with $45.00 Order
This item cannot be shipped to the following state(s): AK,AK,HI,GU,HI,PR,VI
I forgot to ask about taping the board. since it doesn't change how I hang it, I'll probably just wait until the next inspection and see if they say anything.
I don't think gable vents meet code anymore, but regardless, in talking to the inspector, the code doesn't require venting at all over non-living areas. I'll need it for shingle warranty, but otherwise I'm good. I'll probably put some turtle vents in when I install the swamp cooler next spring.
luckily I used to install vinyl siding when I was younger, so I still remember how to do that correctly.
adding some flashing is a good call though. I remember Grace from my roofing days. it was good stuff. I'll have to remember that when I get to that point.
I don't plan on doing any more exterior stuff until spring. I built this damn thing so I wouldn't have to work outside when its cold, dammit! 8) now that I know what has to happen, I can at least get the inside finished up though.
I don't think gable vents meet code anymore, but regardless, in talking to the inspector, the code doesn't require venting at all over non-living areas. I'll need it for shingle warranty, but otherwise I'm good. I'll probably put some turtle vents in when I install the swamp cooler next spring.
luckily I used to install vinyl siding when I was younger, so I still remember how to do that correctly.
adding some flashing is a good call though. I remember Grace from my roofing days. it was good stuff. I'll have to remember that when I get to that point.
I don't plan on doing any more exterior stuff until spring. I built this damn thing so I wouldn't have to work outside when its cold, dammit! 8) now that I know what has to happen, I can at least get the inside finished up though.
hopefully this will be the last of the garage updates for awhile. interior is officially done!
got the sheetrock all finished last night, and pulled the blazer back inside. having it insulated and all that construction stuff out of my way should make it a lot easier and more comfortable to work in there.
seeing the truck sitting in the garage sure makes it look smaller.
: hard to believe its sitting on 9" of total lift right there.
anyway, first up, figure out where my coolant leak is coming from, then its on to the brake upgrades!
got the sheetrock all finished last night, and pulled the blazer back inside. having it insulated and all that construction stuff out of my way should make it a lot easier and more comfortable to work in there.
seeing the truck sitting in the garage sure makes it look smaller.
: hard to believe its sitting on 9" of total lift right there.anyway, first up, figure out where my coolant leak is coming from, then its on to the brake upgrades!
NICE!!! I can't wait for a real man-cave of my own! Well Played sir!!
Nothing wrong with a manspace update!
I've said many times that the "process" can be as enjoyable as the final result..... Having a great, comfortable workspace makes all the difference in your attitude and the quality of the work you'll do.
-G
I've said many times that the "process" can be as enjoyable as the final result..... Having a great, comfortable workspace makes all the difference in your attitude and the quality of the work you'll do.
-G
absolutely! there have been many times over the years where I've cut corners just because I was wet, or cold, or both.
That's awesome that you got your final..
How tall are the exterior walls? I'd love to have that kind of head room.
How tall are the exterior walls? I'd love to have that kind of head room.
walls are 10' 6" sitting on 18" stem walls (although there is a 2" slope to the floor front to back for drainage). overall, very close to 12'.
I love the height, but I'd give up 2' of height, for 2' of extra width. unfortunately, I'm as wide as I can be for code (24'x24').
I love the height, but I'd give up 2' of height, for 2' of extra width. unfortunately, I'm as wide as I can be for code (24'x24').
I decided on doing the 1 ton booster brake upgrade for now. I think in the long run, I'll want to go hydroboost, but hopefully this will be a big improvement for now.
my old MC next to the new one:
guess what I didn't pull when I painted the truck last time.
while I was dealing with this, I decided to pull my radiator and take it to the shop to see where my leak was coming from. turns out, if I'd have just taken a closer look, I'd have seen it was just the rubber seal around the drain.
since I have the radiator out anyway, I'm going to take it down and have it flushed out good. also, I'm going to see if I can plumb a drain line on in place of the existing plug. where it is now, there is no way to drain it without just dumping the water all over the drivers side frame, which makes for quite the mess every time.
also, since I was in the picture taking mood, here is a nice shot of why I need to replace my tie rod:
that rock was closer and bigger than I thought...
and one last question:
how bad is this shackle angle? would this be causing me any steering or other issues?
my old MC next to the new one:
guess what I didn't pull when I painted the truck last time.
while I was dealing with this, I decided to pull my radiator and take it to the shop to see where my leak was coming from. turns out, if I'd have just taken a closer look, I'd have seen it was just the rubber seal around the drain.
since I have the radiator out anyway, I'm going to take it down and have it flushed out good. also, I'm going to see if I can plumb a drain line on in place of the existing plug. where it is now, there is no way to drain it without just dumping the water all over the drivers side frame, which makes for quite the mess every time.
also, since I was in the picture taking mood, here is a nice shot of why I need to replace my tie rod:
that rock was closer and bigger than I thought...
and one last question:
how bad is this shackle angle? would this be causing me any steering or other issues?
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Man i cant wait to have a bigger garage! Mine is 12x20... Better then nothing but still a pain!
it's nice to have for sure. now just have to fill it up with tools. :P
speaking of having a nice big empty garage... last night I lost a nut. my garage is practically empty still, floor is still clean, and I lost a nut. drove myself insane looking for it for 20min before giving up and going and finding a new one, but seriously, there is NO PLACE it could have gone!! no one else was in there, no cracks to roll into, no mess to hide in, nothing.
christ, I hate that!
Don't know if you had seen it, but AJ did a great write up on the 1 ton swap.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=309200
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=309200
Last edited:
I did. actually following that thread as a guide. I was considering going to hydroboost, but this seemed a lot more simple for a pretty decent gain, so it will do for now.
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2004
- Posts
- 2,647
- Reaction score
- 1,043
That shackle angle looks ok but by the way that whole front end looks (well used) you could be dealing with bad/worn out tie rod ends or ball joints. That tie rod when it bent probably changed your alignment a wee bit too. At least you have a nice,Real Nice area to check them out in.
Latest Posts
-
-
-
-
Chevy Dump Bed - PTO from TH400/NP205, Other specs coming in- Latest: 83ChevyK5Blazer
-
