CK5
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But when I started the engine, atf was seeping out of the back of the transmission. Is it supposed to do that, and the TC seal just keeps it out?

The back of the transmission is open when the t-case is off. It is perfectly normal to have fluid right there.

You need to put a gasket between the trans and transfer case, silicone will not seal this spot. NAPA sells the gasket Part# 6000185 about 12.00.

If the t-case is full then the input seal isn't leaking so I wouldn't worry about it. The seal # is 18878 if you do want to change it. The front retainer comes off with those 4 bolts you can see and the seal pops out from there.
 
Just be careful putting the seal back in. Use a socket or something the exact size as the outside of the seal to press it. Don't hit the metal or rubber of the seal with the hammer head or you will be replacing it again shortly.
 
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Thanks for the replies everyone.
The back of the transmission is open when the t-case is off. It is perfectly normal to have fluid right there.

You need to put a gasket between the trans and transfer case, silicone will not seal this spot. NAPA sells the gasket Part# 6000185 about 12.00.
I did have a gasket there (probably need a new one since I split it though), and I'm pretty sure it wasn't leaking from there.

If the t-case is full then the input seal isn't leaking so I wouldn't worry about it. The seal # is 18878 if you do want to change it. The front retainer comes off with those 4 bolts you can see and the seal pops out from there.
I replaced the input seal when I rebuilt the TC, and it still looks pretty good, so I'm assuming it's fine, but that brings me back to my original problem. I was spitting fluid out of the TC vent. Why? Is 2 qts still too much fluid for a 241? Do I just need a longer vent tube?
 
Sorry to ask, but how long is your current vent?
My '90 has the factory one going up to the back of the engine block. I found out that you need to make sure that there is a nice gradual slope to it. Mine had a dip just ahead of the t-case, went to BB14, then it pushed a shot of fluid out on the interstate on the way home. It hasn't done it since I fixed it. But.. .?
 
I wonder if a longer one would fix it.
I can't explain why the NP208 didn't seem to have a problem. They had a short tube like that... from what I remember...
 
I have mine ran up to the dipstick tube on the engine, it was a quick and dirty job to try and figure out why mine was puking as well. Definitely make it a little longer and see how it reacts.
 
If it's puking while the truck is not moving but the engine is running, your vent isn't the problem. I was also going to say your trans to transfer case gasket (if it is a gasket and not just silicone) looks looked like it could be replaced.
 
It's not puking while sitting. Just drips off whatever got all over the case while moving.

I guess I'll try a longer vent tube and see how it goes .
 
I have the same problem, it isn't bad but I can notice a drip or two.

Haven't done a lot of investigating but I want to get it fixed.
 
I reinstalled the tc last week with a really long vent tube that runs into a catch bottle. I haven't put many miles on it, but so far everything is still nice and dry. :waytogo:
 
During Blazer Bash it became obvious that I was getting some pretty significant body flex. Not really a big surprise considering it is a first gen with no cage and a body lift, but it made a lot of noise and I decided I needed to see what I could do to fix it.
Obviously a cage is what is really needed, but I don't have the tools (bender) for that at the moment, so I'm going to tackle low hanging fruit first. Mostly this will just be tightening all of the body mounts and checking the bushings, but while looking around underneath, I realized that I never got around to reinstalling the back piece of the torsion boxes. They've been left off since I painted the truck over 15 years ago. :whistle:

Luckily I still had them kicking around, but they were very rusty and needed to be cleaned up. I wanted to get them as rust free as possible so I decided to give electrolysis rust removal a try. The only out of pocket cost was a $4 box of laundry soda from walmart, so why not? I used some old rebar I had laying around to capture the rust and used by battery charger for the power.
I gotta say, the results were impressive and easy to do.

Torsion_box1.jpg

In the above pic you can see the initial results. You can see the line where the top of the part was sticking out of the water so still has rust. The rebar was rust free when I started so you can see how much was removed from the parts. There was some sort of undercoating on the torsion box ends so that part is still black, but all of the exposed metal was nice and clean once the process was finished.
I left them sitting in the water over night, then flipped them over and left them in another night. That was probably overkill since most of the rust was gone within a few hours. Once the parts were rust free, I hit them with primer and repainted them and got them installed.

Torsion_box2.jpg


Torsion_box4.jpg


I wish I could say the rest of the under carriage was as rust free as the box ends, but it's a start. I did have 2 bolts that were broke under the passenger side that I couldn't get out, but hopefully I still got enough extra support out of these that it'll quiet the body down some.
 
That should help a little bit of the flex. My door latches would make a lot of noise before all the cage stuff went in.
 
I'm down to come down. Besides I need to get my axle from ya.
Speaking of axles, I finally got a few bucks in my pocket so I want to get to work on getting the 14bolt sf put in soon. I may be hitting you up for some help soon too. :)
 
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