CK5
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I run a suburban tank skid cut down and welded back together overlapping to fit a blazer tank. Never had any issues with it.
 
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Does it need to cover every inch? On my regal I just bent a chromemoly tube that welds to the frame on each side right behind the tank, bends down and around the tank area, and protects the tank if I wheelie to high. It would work if your departure angle is your tank. You can add 1 or two more pieces of tubing to protect the middle and front of the tank if you really need that, and it wouldn't weigh much, then just make them unbolt from the frame to swap the tank. You would just need to bend up some U shaped pieces of tube that have the correct width and depth to clear your tank and attach to the frame.

You could connect them with some front/back tubing, would be like rock sliders and leave the middle open. Two u shaped pieces and 2 or 3 straight pieces with notched ends. Or the straight pieces could have one bend to follow the tank contour.
My buddy used leaf springs and spaced them a couple of inches apart.
Nothing will bend them and the tank still cools from the air going through
 
Based on my experience and observations, I would cover the whole thing. Covering the back half might be enough but I don't think fabrication would be any less difficult.
 
You don't use the whole spring pack heath ! Just an individual leaf.
:haha::screwy:

What's the old saying, no sh!t sherlock....;)

I figured you wouldn't use the whole pack, but one leaf thick enough not to allow tank contact isn't very light either, figured it might be a couple leaves or one thick one, either way, still heavy when you space them 2" apart along the tank.
 
What's the old saying, no sh!t sherlock....;)

I figured you wouldn't use the whole pack, but one leaf thick enough not to allow tank contact isn't very light either, figured it might be a couple leaves or one thick one, either way, still heavy when you space them 2" apart along the tank.
To be fair my buddy did this for his oil pan on a fiat mirafiori but the concept is still valid.
And to say this is going to add more weight, 2 spring packs should be enough to cover the tank, that's not much.
We add bigger bumpers, sliders, a winch, another battery for the winch...
Come on, is it worth it to protect your tank?
And it will keep more clearance versus you tube structure.
 
To be fair my buddy did this for his oil pan on a fiat mirafiori but the concept is still valid.
And to say this is going to add more weight, 2 spring packs should be enough to cover the tank, that's not much.
We add bigger bumpers, sliders, a winch, another battery for the winch...
Come on, is it worth it to protect your tank?
And it will keep more clearance versus you tube structure.

I would rather have the tube structure if I needed tank protection, but the leaf spring is a good idea for some projects, I agree.

On my project I am removing the factory skid plate because I don't even need that in sand and dirt, too heavy, ha ha
 
@ashman below are some pics from my K10 skid I built about 6 years ago. It see's plenty of action and I agree with @mrk5 don't half ass cover the tank.

Before the frame was boxed, I welded 3/8' flange nuts on the frame so the bolts run through the frame into those nuts. The plate is 1/4" IIRC.

full


full

full
 
Used your feet to put it up there huh? lol

I've decided to use a full plate. The plate I have is 3/16. I'm hoping that the dimples will help stiffen it, and lighten it at the same time. We shall see.
I started on the standoffs for the plate. It's just tacked in place for now so I can see how it's coming together.
20230509_220643.jpg

The plan is to have the plate wrap around the sides so that I don't have any bolts on the bottom. It will also come up a couple of inches in the front (mostly to stiffen it). In the back, the plan is for it to angle up and then bolt to the bottom of the bumper.

While I worked on that, I started removing the mill scale from my plate.
Before and after pics taken about 1.5 hours apart.
20230510_193359.jpg

20230510_200607.jpg

pretty impressive!
 
yes, used my vans to get it up there :rotfl:

Dimple the bottom? I would be concerned I that would hang up on rocks.
 
yes, used my vans to get it up there :rotfl:

Dimple the bottom? I would be concerned I that would hang up on rocks.
I am somewhat concerned, but I'd also like it to be lighter and stiffer. It's a trade off for sure. I guess I'm not sure which way is better.
 
I am somewhat concerned, but I'd also like it to be lighter and stiffer. It's a trade off for sure. I guess I'm not sure which way is better.

The frame should support it well enough and the weight difference is minimal. The whole point of the skid is the ability to drag it across rocks right?
 
The frame should support it well enough and the weight difference is minimal. The whole point of the skid is the ability to drag it across rocks right?

I agree. Imo, a skid plate is no place for grab holes. Besides, the holes will probably save 3-5 lbs on a 50 lbs plate? Not much difference.
 
I noticed in a recent post by @AgDieseler that he had a few in his skid plate. Ever catch a rock in one?
I have not, but it wouldn’t matter. That fuel skid is .120 and doesn’t offer much more than nominal protection, holes or no. The dimples just make it overall stiffer. The dimples on my sliders haven’t been a problem either. Both are 1-3/8”.

David
 
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