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'72 K5 - BYT - 1 ton swap

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44's are pressed on with the studs just like 10 bolts and 60's right?? Maybe I'm completely backwards here.
 
Z71paramedic said:
44's are pressed on with the studs just like 10 bolts and 60's right?? Maybe I'm completely backwards here.
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I'm pretty sure they are just held in place by the fact that the wheel is tight on them, kinda like the rear drums, but now you have me 2nd guessing myself. gonna look it up.
 
Z71paramedic said:
44's are pressed on with the studs just like 10 bolts and 60's right?? Maybe I'm completely backwards here.
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I hate to admit this, but it looks like I'm wrong as hell. god, it's been a long time since I've replaced the rotors. I SWEAR they just slide on last time. I must be remembering my old camaro or something. :doah::doah::doah:

well, I'm glad I asked at least. /sigh :rolleyes:
 
Ah, I figured you did the normal thing everyone does and forget to take the second spindle nut off. The rotors can be turned while they are still in the hub.


-Brian
 
bp71k5 said:
The rotors can be turned while they are still in the hub.


-Brian
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naa, I know about the 2nd nut... but I'm dumber than that evidently.

I didn't know that they could be turned while on the hub though. at least I didn't post about my stupidity on the internet for the whole world to see... oh wait. :whistle:
 
I've been there. I thought the same thing with the 44 under my wagoneer. Beat the rotor so much with a hammer it broke in half (and still wouldn't come off). That's when I realized my error:doah:
 
Not sure if you got it to work with your current flaring tool or not, but I got an email today from eastwood and their flaring kit is on sale for $30 off right now. Just a heads up:thumb:
 
Z71paramedic said:
Not sure if you got it to work with your current flaring tool or not, but I got an email today from eastwood and their flaring kit is on sale for $30 off right now. Just a heads up:thumb:
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stop tempting me!! :haha:

hopefully I've got it solved. I didn't realize at first that these tubes are considered "thick wall" steel tubes, so a regular flaring tool won't cut it. the tubes are just too strong for those types, so it just pushes the tube through, rather than form the flare. I did find a place that was willing to flare it for me for free though. :thumb: unfortunately, because of how close the bend was it was tough to get the tube in far enough with the nut on it. we'll see if it works out, or if I'll have to try something else.

long story short, if I'd have just bought that damn flaring tool in the first place, I'd be done by now. :rolleyes:

anyway, hopefully I'll have a nice update in a few days.
 
well if shipping is an issue, just buy it and have it sent here. I'll keep it warm for ya until you can swing by and pick it up. :D
 
Just got an email this morning from eastwood... MIG 135 is on sale for $299. Says the offer expires 2/29/12. Just figured I'd give you a heads up.
 
thanks for the heads up!

hey, did they give you a promo code or something? I'm still seeing the old price on their website.
 
NorCal69 said:
I got the email too. Nope on the promo code though.
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he hooked me up. if you click on the link in the email it enters a source code that gives the discount. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see if I can talk them into free shipping too. :pimp:

looks like I'm getting a welder!
 
well, just ordered that welder. I couldn't talk them into free shipping though. they said that big items like that were excluded anyway, so no dice. :(

still a solid deal though. now to check the local classifieds and see if I can score a bottle for a decent price.
any of you do much flux welding?
 
I use flux for all the heavier stuff, but mostly due to the cost of gas out here. Once we move back and I pick up a 230v welder I'll just use mig. It turns out much cleaner. There's absolutely nothing wrong with flux though. Penetrates better IMO. Just needs a bit more cleanup.

Glad you got a good deal:waytogo:
 
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