Good point, the factory spec is 52 ft lbs (
). Guessing they are 10 mm bolts for that kind of torque.CK5
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Good point, the factory spec is 52 ft lbs (
). Guessing they are 10 mm bolts for that kind of torque.
...
...
...... is there an emoticon for "I'm a dumbass"?
Yup, you are right. The bolts I had were 3/8-16. Unfortunately the thread count was close enough to right that I was able to thread them in by hand most of the way so I never even considered they were wrong. After reading this, I went back out found a metric bolt of the right size and sure enough, it torqued down without issue.
Time to tuck my tail between my legs and go edit the above post for posterity... then buy some metric bolts in the morning.
Thanks for setting me straight by the way. At least all I have to replace now is a couple of bolts and my pride. 
Thanks for setting me straight by the way. At least all I have to replace now is a couple of bolts and my pride.
It happens to the best of us....
I've got a stripped waterpump pulley hole because I didn't realize it was a fine-thread bolt. I used a thread-chaser to retap the hole (incorrectly) to a coarse thread...
So my punishment is a helicoil repair.
Whenever you look at my build thread from now on, you understand why my WP pulley only ever has 3 bolts installed!!!
-G
After nursing my pride last night I realized that the responses here were what make this community such a valuable resource. Because I posted (ok, ranted ) about my issue a whole lot more minds were looking at the problem and in short order the answer was found and it only cost me a day and a few extra bolts. If I would have just floundered around on my own, who knows how long and how much money it would have taken before I realized what the issue was.
) about my issue a whole lot more minds were looking at the problem and in short order the answer was found and it only cost me a day and a few extra bolts. If I would have just floundered around on my own, who knows how long and how much money it would have taken before I realized what the issue was.I'll be sure to be looking for that now.Whenever you look at my build thread from now on, you understand why my WP pulley only ever has 3 bolts installed!!!
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Good to know it wasn't worse. Do the 6.0L motors need special flywheel bolts like the older 5.7L? Make sure you check before buying regular hardware store stuff.
I went to fastenal and bought the same style bolts that I had before, only metric this time. The flywheel is positioned by the bolts and no guide pins so yeah, it was important to get the right style with a shoulder.
I used a thread-chaser to retap the hole (incorrectly) to a coarse thread...
It's just a special, combo thread pitch, like 3/8-16/24 or whatever. It fits more bolts, so it's a feature!
-- A
The newest episode of RoadKill on youtube talks about this EXACT same thing, and how they were unable to find a bolt from any local hardware store.
something like that
something like that
hit a major milestone today.
I've got the engine in and ready for final hook up. The transmission is back in and all bolted in place along with the fuel lines.
This weekend I'll be making the final adjustments to the wiring harness and the rest is just bolting things back on. Shouldn't be long now!
I've got the engine in and ready for final hook up. The transmission is back in and all bolted in place along with the fuel lines.
This weekend I'll be making the final adjustments to the wiring harness and the rest is just bolting things back on. Shouldn't be long now!
Awesome! I bet you're stoked!
I am! I'm in kind of a weird spot because it feels like there should be more to fabricate/plan/change whatever so I find myself putting off bolting up the next thing. I keep thinking "I can't bolt that up because I still need to... ummm, something". I guess I just didn't realize I was "almost done" so to speak.
Hopefully it keeps going that way!
I keep wondering what sort of weird vertigo I'll get when my truck is all put together again and runs/drives again..... "Do I drive it now? Or am I supposed to take it apart again?"
-G
"Do I drive it now? Or am I supposed to take it apart again?"
-G
There is no way the tub isn't suppose to come off the frame 2-3 more times by your self at that point.. I think.
Nice going Ash. Pretty cool.
It's been a busy week so the progress is somewhat slow but it is progress.
I got the engine harness reinstalled without issue then moved on to power steering/alternator bracket and exhaust manifolds. I did have to modify the power steering lines slightly but it wasn't too bad. I also had to clearance the frame in a few places.
This is one of the return lines for the power steering pump. There was a bracket bolted to the side of the pump that protected this line a bit but it stuck out too far so I had to remove it. Even with it removed I had to clearance the frame a bit. There is a bit more room than it looks like in the pic but I'll have a piece of rubber on the frame rail there as well just in case.
Very slight clearance needed here. It didn't actually touch before but it was too close for comfort.
This was the most significant clearance issue. The manifold actually bolted into place without touching but it was close enough that I couldn't push the exhaust flange up into place.
I didn't have to clearance it as much as it would appear in the pic. For reference here is the untouched drivers side:
As you can see, the frame already has a notch there, I just needed to extend it a bit.
Also in this pic you can see the clutch slave cylinder in place. I had already bolted the exhaust manifold in place and held up a piece of exhaust pipe with the flange on it to check fitment and everything looked good. However, that exhaust manifold didn't have the flange studs in it and I'm a little worried that the bolts will make pushing the exhaust into place a problem.
There are a few work around options if it comes to that. Maybe a shorter stud on the interfering side, or possibly I'll have to pull the slave cylinder in order to get the exhaust in place. I'll know more this evening. Buying the flange studs today.
Oh, and another little wrinkle to brighten my day. In the process of taking the exhaust manifolds on and off I managed to cross thread one of the bolts. I'll have to buy a metric tap + die set today also to clean it back up. grrrr
I got the engine harness reinstalled without issue then moved on to power steering/alternator bracket and exhaust manifolds. I did have to modify the power steering lines slightly but it wasn't too bad. I also had to clearance the frame in a few places.
This is one of the return lines for the power steering pump. There was a bracket bolted to the side of the pump that protected this line a bit but it stuck out too far so I had to remove it. Even with it removed I had to clearance the frame a bit. There is a bit more room than it looks like in the pic but I'll have a piece of rubber on the frame rail there as well just in case.
Very slight clearance needed here. It didn't actually touch before but it was too close for comfort.
This was the most significant clearance issue. The manifold actually bolted into place without touching but it was close enough that I couldn't push the exhaust flange up into place.
I didn't have to clearance it as much as it would appear in the pic. For reference here is the untouched drivers side:
As you can see, the frame already has a notch there, I just needed to extend it a bit.
Also in this pic you can see the clutch slave cylinder in place. I had already bolted the exhaust manifold in place and held up a piece of exhaust pipe with the flange on it to check fitment and everything looked good. However, that exhaust manifold didn't have the flange studs in it and I'm a little worried that the bolts will make pushing the exhaust into place a problem.
There are a few work around options if it comes to that. Maybe a shorter stud on the interfering side, or possibly I'll have to pull the slave cylinder in order to get the exhaust in place. I'll know more this evening. Buying the flange studs today.
Oh, and another little wrinkle to brighten my day.
In the process of taking the exhaust manifolds on and off I managed to cross thread one of the bolts. I'll have to buy a metric tap + die set today also to clean it back up. grrrr
Looking good Ash. It's like a race to the finish at this point... Whatever finish is?!
lol, I hear that!
I just want to get mine back on the road for summer. I'll have to figure out what the next project step will be after that. (I do have body work that needs doing
)
Over the past few days I've gotten a few more items checked off the list.
New plugs and wires in. I was planning on reusing the old wires but I pulled one apart.
Under hood harness complete and hooked to engine harness.
Fuel pump and VSS wired in.
In cab harness ALMOST complete. I basically have a separate harness from the engine to the gauges. All of the in cab stuff has been modified to accept this new harness I just need to finish wiring the actual connector between the 2. Should only take a couple of hours tonight and that will be done as well.
I don't know how many people will be interested in this, but here it is anyway. :P I have been doing all of my wiring connections with heat shrink over soldered connections. I ran out of solder a couple of days ago and when I bought some new solder things didn't seem to be working as well. I couldn't get the solder to flow into my twisted wire connections where it was working great before. Turns out that I was using low temp solder before. Unfortunately the only place I can find it local is at NAPA, but I got some more today. The standard stuff I found at most places has a melt temp of 430-460*. The low temp stuff melts at 370* and is much easier to work with. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone else planning on doing a lot of wire soldering.
New plugs and wires in. I was planning on reusing the old wires but I pulled one apart.
Under hood harness complete and hooked to engine harness.
Fuel pump and VSS wired in.
In cab harness ALMOST complete. I basically have a separate harness from the engine to the gauges. All of the in cab stuff has been modified to accept this new harness I just need to finish wiring the actual connector between the 2. Should only take a couple of hours tonight and that will be done as well.
I don't know how many people will be interested in this, but here it is anyway. :P I have been doing all of my wiring connections with heat shrink over soldered connections. I ran out of solder a couple of days ago and when I bought some new solder things didn't seem to be working as well. I couldn't get the solder to flow into my twisted wire connections where it was working great before. Turns out that I was using low temp solder before. Unfortunately the only place I can find it local is at NAPA, but I got some more today. The standard stuff I found at most places has a melt temp of 430-460*. The low temp stuff melts at 370* and is much easier to work with. Just thought I'd throw that out there for anyone else planning on doing a lot of wire soldering.
Kind of interesting. I wonder why it's hard to find it? Seems it'd be more common/preferred.
Looking forward to seeing her back on the road!
Looking forward to seeing her back on the road!
