y5mgisi
1 ton status
Why are you using a plastic tank AND external fuel pump?? IF you must run an external fuel pump, why not run an OE tank? You could run walbro pickups in the stock tank, or holley's new fuel pump sock pickup thing.
CK5
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where were all of you guys when I didn't tell you how close it was when I put it together?
I like to wait until it's too late before giving valuable advice.
I'm like a retro-active weatherman. I can predict yesterday's weather with almost 100% accuracy.
-G
They weren't bought together. The plastic tank has been in there for 10 years or so.
I too seem to have mastered the art of the "I wouldn't have done it like that" advice.Greg72 said:I like to wait until it's too late before giving valuable advice.
Luckily the heat tape seems to be holding up pretty well. For now I'll just keep an eye on it and tackle more immediate issues.
I like to wait until it's too late before giving valuable advice.
I'm like a retro-active weatherman. I can predict yesterday's weather with almost 100% accuracy.
-G
I'm post-cognitive. I can tell what's happened after it's happened. (Mostly.)
-- A
Found this little bit o fun today:
We're looking at the bottom of the transmission looking towards the back. It's coming out from the bottom of the bellhousing. I'm fairly sure it's not coming from the engine. I think it's coming from the transmission input shaft seal.
If it's not one thing it's another...
We're looking at the bottom of the transmission looking towards the back. It's coming out from the bottom of the bellhousing. I'm fairly sure it's not coming from the engine. I think it's coming from the transmission input shaft seal.
If it's not one thing it's another...
Wow hate to see you have that many issues with your swap
probably doesn't make you feel any better, but I'm still finding little leaks too.
Thanks guys. I don't think this one is swap related though. This, along with the transfer case issue I think is the next thing to deal with. Now that the engine is purring along other stuff is more evident.
Over the weekend I pulled the tranny and transfer case in order to replace my noisy 208 with the resealed 241.
I pulled the tranny in order to fix my leak and while I was at it, replace the worn out throwout bearing that I should have replaced when the engine went in.
When I first pulled the tranny out I couldn't find the leak. The back of the engine was perfectly dry and there was nothing in the bell housing either. I had to pull the bell housing off of the tranny before I saw this:
When I was looking at it in the garage it seemed obvious that it was leaking from the input bearing seal. I had removed that during the 6.0 swap so it made sense too. However, looking at the pic above it looks more like it was leaking from that lower cap. I resealed the input shaft so I hope that was the problem. I'd hate to have to pull the whole damn thing out again.
The whole assembly ready to go back in:
After switching the 241 to the 32 spline input everything bolted right up and as advertised the 241 and 208 were the exact same dimensions so no hassles there.
Unfortunately I did run into a problem when I took it for a test drive... or attempted to anyway.
The 208 used a mechanical speedo and I used a dakota digital adapter to convert it to an 8k per mile signal for the PCM. The 241 has a stock GM VSS in it so I wired it up to the signal wires of the PCM hoping for the best. I guess it's not that simple. The truck starts and revs just fine but when I give it gas while in gear it cuts out almost immediately. Almost like hitting a rev limiter. I'm not positive the VSS is the issue, but I'm assuming so. The PCM wires are purple and green and the VSS wires were purple and yellow. Maybe that should have tipped me off that they weren't completely compatible.
Anybody know whats up off hand? I'll be doing some reading tonight and tomorrow to see what I can come up with.
I pulled the tranny in order to fix my leak and while I was at it, replace the worn out throwout bearing that I should have replaced when the engine went in.
When I first pulled the tranny out I couldn't find the leak. The back of the engine was perfectly dry and there was nothing in the bell housing either. I had to pull the bell housing off of the tranny before I saw this:
When I was looking at it in the garage it seemed obvious that it was leaking from the input bearing seal. I had removed that during the 6.0 swap so it made sense too. However, looking at the pic above it looks more like it was leaking from that lower cap. I resealed the input shaft so I hope that was the problem. I'd hate to have to pull the whole damn thing out again.
The whole assembly ready to go back in:
After switching the 241 to the 32 spline input everything bolted right up and as advertised the 241 and 208 were the exact same dimensions so no hassles there.
Unfortunately I did run into a problem when I took it for a test drive... or attempted to anyway.
The 208 used a mechanical speedo and I used a dakota digital adapter to convert it to an 8k per mile signal for the PCM. The 241 has a stock GM VSS in it so I wired it up to the signal wires of the PCM hoping for the best. I guess it's not that simple.
The truck starts and revs just fine but when I give it gas while in gear it cuts out almost immediately. Almost like hitting a rev limiter. I'm not positive the VSS is the issue, but I'm assuming so. The PCM wires are purple and green and the VSS wires were purple and yellow. Maybe that should have tipped me off that they weren't completely compatible. Anybody know whats up off hand? I'll be doing some reading tonight and tomorrow to see what I can come up with.
The 241 speed sensor generates 40 pulses per revolution, the Dakota Digital sensor is 3 or 4 PPR. I'll bet the computer thinks you're doing 100 mph when your're doing 10 mph. Looks like I'll need to get into the software and reset the VSS stuff. Meantime you'll have to unplug the VSS.
yup, that makes sense. I assumed the calibration would be different but I didn't know that the PCM had a governor built in. I was seeing speeds over 100mph on the speedo. I'll unplug it so that I can get it down to the shop. I still need to get that other error code removed as well.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Are you still thinking about switching to a CV shaft? The angle of the pumpkin in the picture above isn't very far off from being ok with a CV shaft. I left mine at about 1-2 degrees angle to allow for some axle wrap to bring the angle back to 0 degrees under throttle.
short answer, yes. I'm seriously considering a SYE kit and CV shaft. My driveline angle issues are still there but since I had the new transfer case already I decided to drop it in and see if I did eliminate the noise. It's still possible that the noise was coming from the transmission and if so radical changes may be in order so I don't want to spend more money on the driveline until I'm sure.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
In 89, the 241 came with a mechanical speedo output. You can either source one of those, or reprogram the ecm to accept the stock calibrations. On my burb I have a 241 with stock electronic vs and wired it right up to the computer and it works perfectly.
I think BigBlock72 has it right. I had him reprogram the PCM to accept the output from the dakota digital VSS. We just need to put it back to stock and everything should work just fine. The way it was behaving last night just caught me by surprise because I wasn't aware that a speed limit was programmed into the PCM.
You can have it re-programmed, or I have a cable housing for your 241 if you'd rather go that route.
Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but BigBlock72 lives 20 minutes away, so I'll just make him fix the program for me.
Well that must be nice! Hopefully that straightens everything outThanks, I appreciate the offer, but BigBlock72 lives 20 minutes away, so I'll just make him fix the program for me.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Oh well then thats a no brainer!
So, after disconnecting the VSS I was able to test drive the blazer last night. The new transfer case is MUCH quieter, so the noise was indeed coming from the old 208. When I get time I'll take the 208 apart and see if I can spot the problem.
As expected I still have some drive shaft vibration/noise that I'll have to fix sooner rather than later but at least it's drivable for the time being.
Of course what would a test drive be without highlighting another issue? Every so often I was getting this god-awful loud squeak. It took me awhile to figure it out, but I think I nailed it down to the exhaust manifold down pipe gasket being pinched and rubbed on the frame rail.
You can see in the pic above how close the manifold is to the frame. Under certain load and frame twisting conditions it is actually contacting the frame. The gasket I used actually stuck out a bit so it was getting squished in there and causing the squeaking.
No big deal, right? Just pull the manifold, clearance the frame a little more and reinstall. 1 hour job. No such luck. One of the 3 flange bolt nuts decided it didn't want to come off and somehow managed to strip it's threads and get stuck on the bolt. It would spin, but not go up or down.
I ended up having to sneak a grinder up in there and cut the bolt off but what a pita!
That's where I left it last night. Hopefully today I can get the cut stud out of the manifold and then go about clearancing the frame a bit more.
As expected I still have some drive shaft vibration/noise that I'll have to fix sooner rather than later but at least it's drivable for the time being.
Of course what would a test drive be without highlighting another issue?
Every so often I was getting this god-awful loud squeak. It took me awhile to figure it out, but I think I nailed it down to the exhaust manifold down pipe gasket being pinched and rubbed on the frame rail.
You can see in the pic above how close the manifold is to the frame. Under certain load and frame twisting conditions it is actually contacting the frame. The gasket I used actually stuck out a bit so it was getting squished in there and causing the squeaking.
No big deal, right? Just pull the manifold, clearance the frame a little more and reinstall. 1 hour job. No such luck. One of the 3 flange bolt nuts decided it didn't want to come off and somehow managed to strip it's threads and get stuck on the bolt. It would spin, but not go up or down.
I ended up having to sneak a grinder up in there and cut the bolt off but what a pita!That's where I left it last night. Hopefully today I can get the cut stud out of the manifold and then go about clearancing the frame a bit more.
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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN- Latest: GWeakland620
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