As long as it has hubcaps everything counts as stock, right?
Pretty much.
Just hide all the custom stuff as much as possible. 99% of the people you meet won't know the difference.
....of course the 1% who do, are all members of this site.
-G
CK5
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Pretty much.
Just hide all the custom stuff as much as possible. 99% of the people you meet won't know the difference.
....of course the 1% who do, are all members of this site.
-G
I got lucky, it was just leaking from the top of the filter.
I had read a few horror stories of filters on these LS engines being super hard to remove so I was careful not to overtighten it. I guess TOO careful.
I snugged it up a bit with an oil filter wrench and no more leak. 
(hopefully I can get it off when the time comes. 
)Got up into the mountains for fathers day and snapped a nice pic on the way home.
driving in the evening with the top down is just awesome this time of year!
Oh, and harbor freight had the 20 ton press on sale over the weekend so I picked that up in anticipation of needing it for my gear swap.
Got up into the mountains for fathers day and snapped a nice pic on the way home.
driving in the evening with the top down is just awesome this time of year!
Oh, and harbor freight had the 20 ton press on sale over the weekend so I picked that up in anticipation of needing it for my gear swap.
NICE!
Memories of driving on a perfect evening like that are what keep me motivated on my own build. There is no feeling like it.
-G
I've just been driving the blazer around enjoying it for the last month or so. I've been busy doing a remodel of my basement so there hasn't been much time for truck work lately.
However, on a whim today I called JB conversions to check on the status of the SYE kits. Turns out they just got them ready but they haven't updated the website yet. They took my order over the phone though so I'm basically the first one to get one this year!
I'm looking forward to getting that put on (probably this winter) and hopefully solve my driveline issues for good.
However, on a whim today I called JB conversions to check on the status of the SYE kits. Turns out they just got them ready but they haven't updated the website yet. They took my order over the phone though so I'm basically the first one to get one this year!
I'm looking forward to getting that put on (probably this winter) and hopefully solve my driveline issues for good.
Sounds good dude. Glad somebody is getting to drive and enjoy their rig!
The parts collecting for this winters projects has begun:
I ordered it with the 1350 flange so that I can run a CV shaft as well. Hopefully no more vibration issues.
I ordered it with the 1350 flange so that I can run a CV shaft as well. Hopefully no more vibration issues.
It's actually pretty straightforward once you get over the intimidation of tearing your entire tcase down. Good snapring pliers are a must for these guys
I tore the TC apart once already so luckily I'm past the scared of it part. I'll be doing the tear down and rebuild at the same time as putting in the auto trans. I won't be doing either of those though for a couple of months. I want to drive it while the weather is still good.
So drive it to the Bash
Good call
I tried to get some vroom vroom video along with a nice sunset but the gf kept sticking the camera in the wind so it got drowned out a lot.
The girlfriend or the sunset?
Still figuring out the new forums, but I was able to edit the title at least. 
It appears that I have lost a few posts though. I'm sure there were more posts after that last one. hmmm
It appears that I have lost a few posts though. I'm sure there were more posts after that last one. hmmm
Now that the weather is turning cold again, it's time to bring the blazer back inside for some much needed attention. First up, fixing my touchy throttle.
While my pedal mods did work out to get the blazer back on the road it made for an extremely touchy throttle. I pulled it out and took a few measurements. By my calculation I'm going from idle to WOT in about 1" of pedal travel. The result is that even slight movements of my foot (ie, every little bump in the road) would blip the throttle considerably, making for a frustrating ride.
I measured the pedal travel in my car and it's closer to 2-1/4". I'm going to try and measure my friends Tahoe tomorrow too. If anyone feels like measuring theirs, I'd love to get a few more measurements for comparison.
I've got a few ideas on how to get more travel out of the pedal, but I need to get an idea of exactly how much I need to decide which way is best.
I got my acc pedal all figured out!
The first order of business was to remove the adjustable pedal and arm and then cut down the part that is staying.
With everything that was causing interference cut off it was time to test fit it.
As you can see, it fits in nicely but I still had to use the plastic spacer that was used on my stock pedal bracket. The firewall bends in towards the cabin near the top so I had to use the spacer to keep from running into the firewall.
Luckily, this lead to inspiration! The plastic spacer is used to hold the horizontal portion of the stock pedal arm and give it a pivot point. Since I was using the spacer anyway, and I wanted the new pedal to end up in the same place as the old pedal I installed the old pedal on the DBW mount. I did this just so I could see where it landed in relation to the new mount, but I realized that if I connected the arms, the old pedal could push on the DBW arm just as easily as it pulled on the old throttle cable.
I just happened to have the perfect connector left over from one of my ideas on connecting the hydroboost.
The pivot points don't line up quite right but a couple of rubber washers gives it enough play that it works just fine.
installed:
I think it turned out pretty slick. Plus, I didn't have to modify the stock pedal, arm, or bracket, so once I had everything test fit together I was able to remove it and reinstall the stock pieces and keep the truck drivable.
I think I've got pretty much everything done that can be done before I have to yank the old engine. getting close...
While my pedal mods did work out to get the blazer back on the road it made for an extremely touchy throttle. I pulled it out and took a few measurements. By my calculation I'm going from idle to WOT in about 1" of pedal travel. The result is that even slight movements of my foot (ie, every little bump in the road) would blip the throttle considerably, making for a frustrating ride.
I measured the pedal travel in my car and it's closer to 2-1/4". I'm going to try and measure my friends Tahoe tomorrow too. If anyone feels like measuring theirs, I'd love to get a few more measurements for comparison.
I've got a few ideas on how to get more travel out of the pedal, but I need to get an idea of exactly how much I need to decide which way is best.
13 inches.......oh wait, what are we doing again?
13 inches.......oh wait, what are we doing again?
We're not measuring beer bellies!!!
-G
LOL! I can always count on you guys for the best technical information. :P
Well the serious answer is "it's all about the fulcrum position"
If you move the pivot so that there are equal amounts of length on both the pedal-side and the throttle cable-side you will get a 1:1 relationship between pedal travel and throttle travel.... As you move that pivot point higher (toward the throttle cable) you will get a smaller and smaller effect for the amount of gas pedal motion you apply.
I'm sure the smart thing to do is figure out how much pedal travel you have now (in inches) and how much cable travel you would have from fully-closed to WOT on the carb or TB (in inches) and then figure out the pedal ratio that you would need to have so that they are perfectly matched. Full-throttle on the pedal = WOT at the carb/TB, etc.
Failing all that, you could just bust out some graph paper and draw a scale model of your pedal and pivot and then cut out paper templates for the pedal and use a thumbtack as your pivot.... screw around with THAT for a while and you can also get to the same result I'd bet.
-G
absolutely.
As you can see from the pic, I'm actually working with 2 different levers connected at the end. If you look closely you can see that the upper arm of the pedal lever is longer than the arm of the throttle lever that it is attached to (the fulcrum of the throttle lever is the bright copper colored pin in the middle). The fulcrum point of the pedal lever is about 3" lower. Not only am I dealing with different lever lengths, but also different fulcrum points so the connection points between the 2 aren't moving in the same arc anyway.
I need to decide how much pedal movement I want and then work from that to see if I can come up with a combination of levers that will achieve that, or go with a completely different design.
The graph paper template idea is a good one. I will most likely be trying that this evening.
I was able to measure my friends Tahoe at lunch today. His pedal movement was only 1-1/4". 
Thinking back, my pedal movement may have been slightly less than 1" but still that means I may only need to get 1/2" or so more of pedal travel to make things a lot more comfortable.
Thinking back, my pedal movement may have been slightly less than 1" but still that means I may only need to get 1/2" or so more of pedal travel to make things a lot more comfortable.
