CK5
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One of the issues I had while sitting on the hill was that after a few minutes the fluid drained to the back of the trans and I lost all transmission function. I'm assuming the torque converter was basically empty. As soon as I was back on flat ground it was fine, but it was super frustrating at the time.

Is there any way to prevent that from happening in the future?
 
One of the issues I had while sitting on the hill was that after a few minutes the fluid drained to the back of the trans and I lost all transmission function. I'm assuming the torque converter was basically empty. As soon as I was back on flat ground it was fine, but it was super frustrating at the time.

Is there any way to prevent that from happening in the future?
:burnout:MAN Trans. Beat you to it @Bent77
 
I took the blazer up to the star valley mud rally over the 4th of July weekend. It was my first time ever running it in the mud so I didn't know what to expect. She did ok for having the wrong tires for the job.

Running 6500 rpms for 30+ seconds evidently pushed my tensioner pulley over the edge. I lost power steering and brakes because the belt was slipping so bad.

Running through the mud leads to quite the mess so I spent several hours with the power washer last weekend getting back to reasonably clean.
20190713_165624.jpg

20190713_165611.jpg

The inside is still a mess, but its clean enough to work on again, so I replaced the tensioner pulley today.

Time to start working on some blazer bash prep.
 
I know you guys are all jealous of my stock bump stops that I'm too stiff to need along with my 30 year old rancho 5000s! :surepal:

Should this statement be in the pen?




:haha:


At least you don't have 4 shocks per corner with neon boots on them!
 
I got a stock Chevy steering wheel from @Wicked Wolf Auto awhile back, so I decided it was time for an upgrade. I've been using this tiny grant steering wheel forever.
20190730_170920.jpg

This one is a more appropriate size.
20190730_180436.jpg

Unfortunately I'm having trouble figuring out how to hook up the horn button. I think I might be missing some pieces.

I have this:
20190730_180548.jpg

And this on the column:
20190730_224010.jpg

The parts in my hand came with the wheel, but there is no hole for the horn electrical lead to stick up like I have on the column.

Anybody got a diagram, or pic that can show me what I'm missing?
 
You need to take the wire out. Turn the plastic tube a quarter turn, if it is like a factory part. Then you need to get the metal button to go in its place. There is a spring to hold the button up as well.
The flat spring plate goes under the cupped piece, the nylon ring goes on with the sleeves going through both of the metal pieces. Hopefully you have the screws. OH YEAH! Make sure that you put the notch in the cup to the top, it aligns with the horn button when you snap it in.
 
I got a stock Chevy steering wheel from @Wicked Wolf Auto awhile back, so I decided it was time for an upgrade. I've been using this tiny grant steering wheel forever.
View attachment 309958

This one is a more appropriate size.
View attachment 309959

Unfortunately I'm having trouble figuring out how to hook up the horn button. I think I might be missing some pieces.

I have this:
View attachment 309960

And this on the column:
View attachment 309961

The parts in my hand came with the wheel, but there is no hole for the horn electrical lead to stick up like I have on the column.

Anybody got a diagram, or pic that can show me what I'm missing?

Is the column stock first gen? Curious if that later model steering wheel horn will actually be compatible? Those parts look similar to the first gen so may work. But on a first gen column that wire that sticks up is just a metal bushing/brush with a spring under it that forces it to contact the metal ring. I think LMC has a diagram.
 
Is the column stock first gen? Curious if that later model steering wheel horn will actually be compatible? Those parts look similar to the first gen so may work. But on a first gen column that wire that sticks up is just a metal bushing/brush with a spring under it that forces it to contact the metal ring. I think LMC has a diagram.
I was thinking about giving @ashman grief about not having the stock column or steering wheel in his!!!
:haha:

Cuz he hasn't seen my truck...
 
I think I found the issue with connecting my horn button. I think I need this:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP...tact+Repair+Kit&keywordInput=horn+contact+kit
horn button kit.jpg

As you can see in the image I posted earlier, my horn button ring has a wire lead sticking out. It's been so long that I didn't realize that was part of the adapter for the grant steering wheel. Once I replace it with the kit above, everything should install correctly.
 
I think I found the issue with connecting my horn button. I think I need this:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP...tact+Repair+Kit&keywordInput=horn+contact+kit
View attachment 310077

As you can see in the image I posted earlier, my horn button ring has a wire lead sticking out. It's been so long that I didn't realize that was part of the adapter for the grant steering wheel. Once I replace it with the kit above, everything should install correctly.

Yea, that’s the spring and brush thing I was remembering.
 
Yea, that’s the spring and brush thing I was remembering.
yeah, until I saw a video of it going together I didn't catch the difference. Thanks for the help, even though I didn't understand it yet. lol
 
I took her out for a shakedown run before blazer bash and found my steering rod ends were bad. I have cross over steering now, so I couldn't figure out where the ends came from. Anybody able to help?

Left hand theads:
20190819_211256.jpg

20190819_211352.jpg

Right hand threads:
20190819_211207.jpg

20190819_211411.jpg
 
What size are the actual threads?

I know I got mine from ORD, but they came with the cross over
 

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