CK5
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76 CCDRW...Cummins noises
- Thread starter 76zimmer
- Start date
Got my adapter/spacers yesterday....had to try em out, then give em a coat of RAPC/White for final install.
Here is the 1.5" spacer/adapter...very nice piece. came with studs and lugnuts...I might add I don't think you could go any thinner than the 1.5" and still be able to mount these over the factory studs.
The trial fit, notice the amount the factory studs are inside these adapters.
Painted and mounted...another drawback is having to mount the adpater/spacers, then lower the tire to torque them, then jack up again to put the outside tire on....the price to pay for cool I guess.
leaving about 3/4" between the tires at the bottom bulge while on the ground...
The end result was worth it:
I have about 5" between the tire and fender, and the heavy overload is about 2" from its engagement bracket on the frame, so I feel I shouldn't have to worry too much about tires hitting the fender.
Here is the 1.5" spacer/adapter...very nice piece. came with studs and lugnuts...I might add I don't think you could go any thinner than the 1.5" and still be able to mount these over the factory studs.
The trial fit, notice the amount the factory studs are inside these adapters.
Painted and mounted...another drawback is having to mount the adpater/spacers, then lower the tire to torque them, then jack up again to put the outside tire on....the price to pay for cool I guess.
leaving about 3/4" between the tires at the bottom bulge while on the ground...
The end result was worth it:
I have about 5" between the tire and fender, and the heavy overload is about 2" from its engagement bracket on the frame, so I feel I shouldn't have to worry too much about tires hitting the fender.
Looks nice Zim! BTW, you don't have to lower the tire all the way down to torque them, just lower it until it touches firmly then it's only a couple pumps to get it back off the ground...OR....you could put a spool in there and then you don't have to lower it to torque the wheels! ha ha
I don't see why you need to get the truck down to torque the first set of studs?
We do this on big rigs all the time torquing the first tire and then putting the second torquing it and then dropping it down.
We do this on big rigs all the time torquing the first tire and then putting the second torquing it and then dropping it down.
I don't see why you need to get the truck down to torque the first set of studs?
We do this on big rigs all the time torquing the first tire and then putting the second torquing it and then dropping it down.
Are you only jacking one side of the axle up? Because if the other side is still touching the ground it wouldn't be necessary...
Looks Damn tough, Dave....
Love the lic. plate too. Here is Cali you can't get anything cool like that. It's all save the whales, Palm trees or some kind of finger painting with kids hand prints... Ghey......
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Worth it indeed! Looks bad ass!
Jacked from the center of the axle, so both sides were up. I can see if the axle is locked you could torque, but this one is open? I thought an open would turn one side even if the other was touching, and in park? And it really isn't much different from dropping it completely or just til a tire touches....One or two pumps ain't a big deal, its getting up off my knees and going to the jack that is the hard part....old knees and kneeling ain't getting along with me too well these days.
And man does Bart ride great....like a luxury liner!
And man does Bart ride great....like a luxury liner!
Looks Damn tough, Dave....
Love the lic. plate too. Here is Cali you can't get anything cool like that. It's all save the whales, Palm trees or some kind of finger painting with kids hand prints... Ghey......
In MI, if you can get a plate the same year as the vehicle, you can register that plate to the vehicle, and its good as long as you own the vehicle..one fee $35.00....Its a called an authentic plate registration. Its only supposed to be used for parades, repair transit, shows, etc. but I got 4 of my vehicles registered like that, and never a problem with the PoPo...
The plate a buddy had, and luckily the letters have a couple explanations I can think of HD for an HD truck, or DZ for my initials...kinda cool
full on side shot of the rig please!! 
very nice Dave, looks great from behind..
here was the progression on the back of my welds... which where pebblecast finish... upper left fresh, lower right scrubbed, lower left machined before wetsand, up right outer old...
that's a fair amount of machine removal, I know the guys pain...
how the outsides turned out with a good wetsand... I freakin love polishing alum at any opportunity to do it...
the inners basically look the same...
very nice Dave, looks great from behind..here was the progression on the back of my welds... which where pebblecast finish... upper left fresh, lower right scrubbed, lower left machined before wetsand, up right outer old...
that's a fair amount of machine removal, I know the guys pain...
how the outsides turned out with a good wetsand... I freakin love polishing alum at any opportunity to do it...
the inners basically look the same...
mighty fine truck Dave 
full on side shot of the rig please!!
here was the progression on the back of my welds... which where pebblecast finish... upper left fresh, lower right scrubbed, lower left machined before wetsand, up right outer old...
that's a fair amount of machine removal, I know the guys pain...
how the outsides turned out with a good wetsand... I freakin love polishing alum at any opportunity to do it...
the inners basically look the same...
He worked his butt off to get these shinin' like they are...He messed up a little by polishing the inside of the rears wheels too...I was just going to paint them Silver like I did the fronts, but he beat me to it..
I can say as a witness, that even without materials, he probably was lucky to make $10/hr on these wheels. He showed me the different abrasive wheels he bought for these, up to 8" for his buffer spindles, and a handful more for a hand buffer, but I'm sure he'll use them on other stuff too, but he really didn't make any money on these.
I can appreciate the work that went into making them right.
mighty fine truck Dave
Thanks Ray, how you feelin' man?
I forgot to post up a couple pics...
The rear package:
front view of the tire stickout, looks cool in the rearview:
And the side profile:
rig looks great..
yeah, doing the insides of mine was stupid labor.. just so they would clean up easy...
the outsides just needed a solid 600/1000 wetsand.. the inners? that was 150 and 180 flaps wheels... and hr's! than wetsanding em in the tub.... 
yeah, doing the insides of mine was stupid labor.. just so they would clean up easy...
the outsides just needed a solid 600/1000 wetsand.. the inners? that was 150 and 180 flaps wheels... and hr's! than wetsanding em in the tub....
hahaha, I give it a shot at work one night, brought in some 150 and up, tried it by hand....it just laughed at me. It was then I knew I had to use power and invest in more materials, and plenty of time....that's when I started looking for someone who could do it...and this guy was the only one in 50mi. that would touch em.
So Dave,
Do you use an impact for torquing your wheels?
Because I do, and all you need is one gentle hold with your foot on the tire so it doesn't spin out of control and go to town.
It's also how all the big rig tire shops do it, that way you can let the wheel turn to align better with the lugs as you go around.
You could also have the ebrake on if you didn't want to hold them.
Do you use an impact for torquing your wheels?
Because I do, and all you need is one gentle hold with your foot on the tire so it doesn't spin out of control and go to town.
It's also how all the big rig tire shops do it, that way you can let the wheel turn to align better with the lugs as you go around.
You could also have the ebrake on if you didn't want to hold them.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
That's hack.
