CK5
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yee haaa, yes we do. You got lots to do before April :D:D:D:D

If there is one thing that BB should have taught you the more time you have on your truck before you make a huge trip the better, even the best can't predict all the problems they will have

Yes I do Eric...I have 3 pages hangin' on the wall in the shop, and write-ins getting added here and there as I think of them.
BB10 taught me a lot, it also set a hook pretty deep in me, and its getting reeled in a little more each day:whistle:

That's where I have mine.

You can also get it from any of those small pipe plugs that run along the oil pan rail just above the oil pan (except for the larger middle one which is the coolant drain)

Heath there is two threaded plugs above the filter, one a 1/8 and the other 1/2....Now in the old days a true Hiperf block had both tapped for an oil cooler, with one flowing out,the other return I assume. So it would seem like there wouldn't be equal pressure on them both???? Am I thinking wrong?
 
Its what I had that fit....:waytogo:

I think I may try to keep it for part of my final tray though...I'm kinda likin' it.
 
Heath there is two threaded plugs above the filter, one a 1/8 and the other 1/2....Now in the old days a true Hiperf block had both tapped for an oil cooler, with one flowing out,the other return I assume. So it would seem like there wouldn't be equal pressure on them both???? Am I thinking wrong?

I am not sure on that one Zim. I have seen them before with oil cooler ports, but that was newer stuff (8.1). There may be older blocks particularly HD blocks I would guess, that had factory oil coolers, I don't know. I remember mine having what looked like two threaded ports on it, but one of them didn't go anywhere, was a blind hole, might of been the boss for a clutch pivot.
 
After surfing a while here is what I come up with...the old 4 bolt blocks had these holes both tapped for hi-perf use. Oil feeds the oil filter, then feeds the main oil galley along the side of the oil pan. If these two ports are used for a cooler or whatever, the output is the rearmost port and the return is the frontmost port. The oil simply makes this loop to a remote filter or cooler then returns in the front port and into the usual oil flow loop. As Heath mentioned any of the ports along side of the oil pan could provide oil pressure for a guage, including either of the two large ports (if equipped) The critical thing is when using these 2 large ports that they be used as described above. So for now, I'm going to plug into the easiest one to get an oil pressure reading.
 
First off, I'm thankful for having these in my shop....heat is king when its 10 degrees outside:

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I think I got the wiring done enough to fire the engine in the frame.....

DOES THIS SOUND RIGHT:

4 ga. from battery POS to starter main; and NEG to block, and frame. (I will be using 1/0 for final cables)

10 ga. from battery POS to junction block, and from junction block to pushstart to starter S terminal.

14 ga. from junction block to ign on/off to dist. battery term.

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This is what I ended up with for the oil pressure line. I think the 1/8" allen plug would have worked too, but I couldn't get it out in its present situation.

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Zim, maybe you have had better luck, but I would ditch the copper oil pressure line right now. I tried running that stuff in my regal several years back, and no matter what I would do, it was just a matter of time before the copper line would crack right behind the fitting where it entered the engine. I had the loops in there to allow movement, and I tried tighter or looser fittings, but in the end it would always crack, and start spewing oil out everywhere and I would have to pull over and fix it. So I ended up buying a braided stainless line to go from the fitting to the gauge. I don't trust the copper in the car anymore, in fact, I would probably use plastic before copper at this point, but prefer the braided for oil lines. Obviously just for breaking in the engine that will be fine, I just wouldn't run it on the K5.

Also, do you have the radiator installed/filled yet? Oil added? Carb/fuel plumbed? If so, what the heck are you waiting for, fire that puppy up!

By the way, what's up with the teaser pick above the heater? You can't show just half that pic...
 
So the wiring is right?

I'll get a better pic of the hottie on the softail too.

The copper line I have on the Vette has given no leakage the whole time I've owned the car, so that was my decision to run it here....I had plastic for that gauge, but thought it was too close to the header to survive. Those gauges are probably only geting used for this fireup, I'll get something bigger for the truck. I'll watch it closely though, and probably go with a braided line as you suggest for the K5.

I have the radiator full, I need to figure a temporary fuel supply, and still work on the distributor some, prime the engine, and hopefully it'll fire.

I've been at the hospital all day yesterday and will be going back today for Mom. She is having a heart procedure done. Then I'm going to Chicago for the weekend. Stay tuned it will happen soon.
 
Yeah, the wiring looks fine for now, assuming you are not wiring the alternator, and are just going to keep the battery charged with a 120V wall charger while you run it?

What water pump are you running? Are you running all accessories and just not wiring hte alternator for now? Or do you have a water pump only belt? You serp water pump needs to drive backwards right? I know you know this, but as a friendly reminder, make sure you don't spin your power steering pump dry.

Also, for the final run in the truck I would use 10 or 12 gauge or so for the HEI to make sure you have enough ignition power, but a short run of 14 for the break in will work fine. Personally for that engine I would would want an MSD 6AL box to go with your HEI in the truck.

Best of luck with your mother's procedure, I hope all is well.
 
per your request Heath:

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I got the engine fired up today, broke it in @ 2000-2500 for 30 minutes.
New NORTHERN radiator is awesome...with a 7 blade fan, no shroud, and full of water it never went above 190. super cool.

I have a video, but am having a hard time uploading it to my computer @ home.
 
I did have the PS pump filled and just a recycle loop. Worked good.
The alternator isn't wired at this point, just spinning in the serp system.
The water pump is a reverse unit, and it works great.

Problems to correct:

The crank pulley seems to be on a little to far, it started shredding the belt towards the end of the breakin. It was toward the outer lip on the crank pulley, and was riding on the inner lip of the other units. Maybe a shim underneath it, will take care of that.

The vacumm advance still needs to be hooked up and dialed in. Right now I have it set at 10*, and 28 total...all mechanical.

The engine breather system I came up with sucks....It was pulling in fresh air into the valve covers, but also condensed the moisture as it was pulling the vapors out of the valve covers, up to the PCV can. Will need to make some mods with that as well. Maybe just forget about deep water crossing, and go with a more factory type setup.

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I love the responsiveness of this JET carb....its great!

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Thats awesome Dave.

Congrats on the milestone man. :thumb:

No sh!t Eric....It should have happened a long time ago, but I'll just keep looking forward now. Man, BBC's and open headers @ 2500 = LOUD

Heath, Mom is doing well so far, I stopped to see her today before coming to work. She's comfortable, and things appear good at this time.
Thanks for the thoughts.
 
Awesome Dave! :woot::thumb::saweet::sign20:

So was that an old pic? It looks like you don't have a coil in the dizzy?

Remember you have to have your machinist come and put the dual springs back in now right?

Also, did you not have the converter bolts in, or did you fill the trans?

I know exactly what you mean, open header big blocks are LOUD, especially under a roof!

That is a big step in the right direction there, and should give you a lot of motivation to finish that thing! :waytogo:

Glad your mom is well.

How much vacuum do you have at idle? You mechanical advance seems pretty good, I would set the timing at 34 - 36 RPM with the mechanical all in (@3 - 4k RPM), and then plug your vacuum advance in after that to full manifold vacuum. It will smooth the idle a little bit and have better throttle response most likely. Also, limit your vacuum advance to ~52 total at cruise RPM.
 
That is an old pic Heath. The convertor is not in the trans either. I didn't want to fill it, cause I still have a part or two to change in the trans.

And Yes my head guy needs to put in the Inner springs now that cam break in is done.

I know the idle is stumbling right now with no vacuum on it...and it wants to stall out also. I got a new distributor from Sumit or Jegs, don't remember now, but I'll see what it has for vacuum advance setup on it....may have to play with the springs and weights on the mechanical too. Man I still need to do that to the Vette also....doah

Yep hopefully Mom will continue to do well and after she gets home, and I get back from Chicago...I hope to work on it most days now.
 
I will Rene....I'm at work right now, but will try again later tonight to get it uploaded.
 
Engine start up video:



This video is at the end of the 30 minute break in cycle. Obviously need to do some tuning.

 
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Very nice, that motor is willing that's for sure. I am excited to see this thing dave and wheel with you
 
I haven`t listened to your vid yet ,every one is sleeping.. shh
Sure looks cool though, and congrats on getting it going.
Also glad to hear your mom is recovering well.

I had a 78 sb 4x4 18 years ago that I put a 454 in. The first time I started it, open headers was sweet like you said loud. I started it in out shop that was a 30x40 frame with tin and no insulation. I had neibours that I have never talked to, come over to see what kind of monster truck I was building in there. LOL That was a fun truck, wish I still had it.
 

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