77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[folkenheath]

Yeah, I've read about your guys ordeals with that stuff....if I ain't likin it, I'll get some braided pushloc and jegs fittings like I used on the rest of my fluid lines....seems to be working fine for everything I've used it on.

I don't think its the fittings, I think its just the hose. I think if you used your same hose on these fittings it would be cake. I won't buy any more of that stuff because of that, I like regular braided fittings better, but since I had the hose from the kit, and considering the cost of it, I did use it, and used the leftover to make trans cooler lines for my regal, once its together it works reliable.

 

[rdn2blazer]

Ordered....30226 kit

600hp pump upgrade kit 307503

Edelbrock rpm airgap 7561

a birthday/thanksgiving/christmas/new years/MLK/groundhog day/presidents day/st patty's day/ easter/ memorial day present for myself....that should cover it!

I'm going to swap my tbi to a FAST EFI setup too. My bud recommended this brand. Stoked for you!

 

[76zimmer]

thats great to hear Rob, I think it will be an awesome improvement over the carb setup

and I'm stoked for me too!

 

[max 02]

Very nice Dave!

You going to be eating Mac and cheese for a while!

 

[blazinzuk]

thats great to hear Rob, I think it will be an awesome improvement over the carb setup

and I'm stoked for me too!

It will blow your mind how much of an improvement it is.

Going to be awesome Dave.

Now off to go find some money and build me a 6.0 that will keep up with you and Heath.

 

[folkenheath]

Yeah Dave, with that intake and EFI I think you are going to unleash the beast thats been keeping your engine at bay.

And Eric, just for your goal reference, there was a guy there last time that had a newer truck with the 6.2 and had done some mods such as cam, headers, intake, injectors, tuning etc, said it had dyno'd 550 hp and ran low 13s in the quarter, not sure if he pulled the engine or calculated the power loss from a chassis dyno. Anyway, that truck was consistently 1 truck length behind me in the 300 ft sand drag. So if you can match that in your light rig then it should be pretty close in a sand drag.

 

[blazinzuk]

Well its not like I am going to be able to build one or get out there to race you.

I still think cost vs cost I could build a 6.0 that could hang with your big block.

I also know you will continue your thinking. So we will have to arm wrestle next time I see you. Whoever wins that wins

 

[folkenheath]

I still think cost vs cost I could build a 6.0 that could hang with your big block.

Don't get me wrong, the LS are great engines, I'd love a 7.0 LS with an aluminum block in a 67 Nova.

And cost/cost you might be right.

I haven't priced many parts for an LS because I don't have one yet. And they do come with nice AL 15 deg heads and roller cams from the factory. And the small block has always been good for hp/dollar, and the new LS small blocks take that to a whole new level. But as far as all out power goes, the big block will always be king, size matters, and it keeps changing just like SB does, just not from the factory any more. Just go to the dragstrip and see. Look at pro stock running in the 6s naturally aspirated, those aren't LS engines. Then there is pro mod with blowers, nitrous, etc. Those aren't small blocks either. Then go to street legal class racing, Larry Larsons 67 Nova with a twin turbo big block runs in the 6s and then he drives it home. Probably making around 2800 hp reliably. Now, these aren't cheap, but neither is a twin turbo LS engine.

But, if you start with a bone stock 454 and a bone stock 6.0, the 6.0 might be cheaper because it already has good heads and roller lifters, so with a simple cam and intake swap, and some headers and it would be making decent power. A big block with a cam and intake swap might be limited by the heads, and heads are expensive, but a simple port job can fix that. Start adding the cost of EFI though and the new engine already has it. But tuning or tuning software isn't cheap either for the LS.

The real benefit of the big block though, is when you make it bigger on the inside! 540 or 555 still uses a short deck block. Then the 6.0 has a serious handicap when its up against an 8.9. Go with a .400 tall deck and now you can make a 572 or even bigger. A 6.0 has nothing on a 9.4L. hee hee

 

[76zimmer]

Very nice Dave!

You going to be eating Mac and cheese for a while!

I got a few good recipes now, still gotta try Kris' latest recipe though....just about done with the batch I made last sunday, so next week I'll be makin some mo!

It will blow your mind how much of an improvement it is.

Going to be awesome Dave.

Now off to go find some money and build me a 6.0 that will keep up with you and Heath.

Eric, I think a stock 6.0 in your truck could keep up with me....I'm so heavy (the Maiden is too!) that the 2000lb handicap should get us close.
Not know where the actual rear wheel numbers lay, but the dyno 2000 program told me 465hp/550tq for the BBC, and my truck is 300hp/360tq as installed....so how they compare I don't know in the real world????


.

Don't get me wrong, the LS are great engines, I'd love a 7.0 LS with an aluminum block in a 67 Nova.

And cost/cost you might be right.

I haven't priced many parts for an LS because I don't have one yet. And they do come with nice AL 15 deg heads and roller cams from the factory. And the small block has always been good for hp/dollar, and the new LS small blocks take that to a whole new level. But as far as all out power goes, the big block will always be king, size matters, and it keeps changing just like SB does, just not from the factory any more. Just go to the dragstrip and see. Look at pro stock running in the 6s naturally aspirated, those aren't LS engines. Then there is pro mod with blowers, nitrous, etc. Those aren't small blocks either. Then go to street legal class racing, Larry Larsons 67 Nova with a twin turbo big block runs in the 6s and then he drives it home. Probably making around 2800 hp reliably. Now, these aren't cheap, but neither is a twin turbo LS engine.

But, if you start with a bone stock 454 and a bone stock 6.0, the 6.0 might be cheaper because it already has good heads and roller lifters, so with a simple cam and intake swap, and some headers and it would be making decent power. A big block with a cam and intake swap might be limited by the heads, and heads are expensive, but a simple port job can fix that. Start adding the cost of EFI though and the new engine already has it. But tuning or tuning software isn't cheap either for the LS.

The real benefit of the big block though, is when you make it bigger on the inside! 540 or 555 still uses a short deck block. Then the 6.0 has a serious handicap when its up against an 8.9. Go with a .400 tall deck and now you can make a 572 or even bigger. A 6.0 has nothing on a 9.4L. hee hee

this is my idea of a LS engine....the LSX454...700hp but for 17K, you could get a helluva BBC...perhaps a 555/900hp?

 

[cybrfire]

Pretty sweet Dave!

 

[76zimmer]

well I hope so, talking a bit with our ole pal Phil too!
got a pic of your tank layout somewhere Kert?
What does it have for access to the internals of the tank, or did you shut it up for good?
And how many gal was it?



this should be a bad little doggie when done....something like this:

 

[max 02]

That is sexy!!

 

[cybrfire]

well I hope so, talking a bit with our ole pal Phil too!
got a pic of your tank layout somewhere Kert?
What does it have for access to the internals of the tank, or did you shut it up for good?
And how many gal was it?



this should be a bad little doggie when done....something like this:

Fuel tank pics are in my build thread somewhere. I'll see if I can find them.

Closed it up for good. Was built in such a fashion that there should never be any reason to be back inside it.

 

[76zimmer]

Cool Kert, I'll go back and search for it in your thread....I don't know at this point if I want to do some more mods to my tank or start over custom. Would like to make a clamp to secure each pickup down to the bottom of the tank, and have them all feed into a block as you have then a front mounted exit point for the pump pickup line to hook up to. I still have that vent issue with filling too that needs to be addressed.

 

[speedfreekk]

Hey Zimm if ya have some spare fuel hose, I could use a little extra. Still working away slowly on mine. Will e up for a while tonight if ya get bored give me a call.

 

[cybrfire]

For what your rig is Dave, all the work you have into it, and now considering the fuel injection, personally I think it would be a shame not to have an aluminum fuel tank in it. Built just the way you need it to be built.

 

[76zimmer]

right Kert...but you do have that 31 gal just sittin that you ain't never gonna get another truck to put it in anyway....just sayin.

 

[76zimmer]

So this is what Kert has in his truck...

the stocker 31 gal tank...

my walbro setup with two of the non bleed type in the back, and one bleed type in the front....

I would also like to keep my kickass custom DIY4X skidplate....

I would like a ~30 gal tank with the walbro pickups in it, and the factory sending unit for gauge readout as well as a fuel line return.

other wishes are for a front low mounted outlet to go to the external mounted FAST pump and filter.
a access panel on top to get into the tank for whatever reason.
a factory type fill point to match my existing fuel filler location.

downside to a factory type tank is the seam around the middle, I had to fold it to get it to fit between the frame rails....



Thoughts on the Walbro setups concerning the bleed type and non bleed types?

 

[76zimmer]

a little education on the Walbro's...notice the bleed type pickup suggested for use in a system that might see all pickups exposed to air....





Fuel Pick-up

These fuel pickups were originally developed for snowmobile applications, but they work great in rock-crawlers or in fuel tanks that don't have baffles. These are the same type of pick-ups that are in the Holley Universal In-Tank Mulit-Point Fuel Pick-up Kit [Holley part number 12-951 - two pickups per kit]. Walbro made those pickups for​

The original Walbro pickups were the MP-10. Those were the pickups in the Holley kit, too. Those pickups had a 30 micron mesh. With fuel formula changes in recent years, the snowmobile manufacturers were noticing a type of goo building-up on the pickups. That goo was the new fuels reacting to the plastic fuel tanks. Walbro changed the mesh to 70 microns and there was no more buildup on the pickups. . The new part numbers are MP-12, MP-13, MP-14, MP-15, and MP-16.
How they work:
Have you ever sprayed water on a window screen? Recall that the screen will actually hold some of the water. These pickups work the same way. When the pickup is submerged in fuel, the fuel will pass through the mesh with ease. When fuel sloshes away from the pickup, the mesh will hold enough fuel to fill all the tiny holes. That mesh full of fuel acts like a solid. At this point, the pump, sucking on the pickup will cause the mesh to suck shut, preventing the pump from sucking air. When fuel covers the pickup once again, the valve will open up and transfer fuel.
Specifications:
These pick-ups have one or two 5/16 fittings. The pickups with two fittings can be used to connect pickups in series.
The inlet side of the pickup has a 70 micron mesh. The pickup is just under three inches in diameter and just under two inches tall. These pickups have been tested in gasoline to -40 F and in diesel fuel to 0 F. A single pickup can flow 40 gal per hour, so they work well with high-performance applications, too.
The Bleed Hole:
If your system has any posibiity of running completely dry, Walbro suggests that one pickup in the system should have a bleed hole. If your system doesn't have a bleed hole, it can become totally closed if all of the pickups close at once. If that happens, the closed pickups can take many minutes to re-open, depending upon how much vacuum the fuel pump has pulled. In extreme cases, you may have to open your fuel tank and remove a fuel line to break that vacuum.​

The bleed hole is a very small hole in the disc that shuts-off the fuel flow. Runing a system with more than one bleed hole is not necessary or recommended. Since the bleed hole is a hole, a small amount of air will enter your fuel supply when that pickup is exposed. It is a necessary evil if there is a risk of running out of fuel. Place the pickup with the bleed hole in the position that will see fuel as long as possible. If your system will never run out of fuel, it is best to install pickups that do not have bleed holes.
The number of pickups you should install depends on the shape and orientation of your tank. You obviously need more than one pickup, because if you only have one, and it closes-up, you're done! Place the pickups in the extreme corners of your tank. That should give you access to the most fuel.
Installation:


Since rubber hose rated for in-tank use is so expensive, many folks are using hard lines to the pickups. Pieces of copper tubing or brake line can be bent and run between connections. That reduces the need for in-tank hose to only a couple inches at each pickup or other connections. A hard line will also help keep the pickups in place and help weigh them down so the stay in the bottom of the tank.

Note:​

If the fuel pickups are completely dry at startup, the pump will suck air. The pickups won't close unless they have been initially immersed in fuel [the mesh is wet].​

Part Number Type Bleed Hole Price MP-12 Single Fitting No $26

 

[folkenheath]

I have never used them before but after reading that bleed hole thing before and now, I would say you should not run a bleed hole. air in your fuel line would be bad with EFI. And also, you should not run dry at all pickups, if you do your tank is empty.

Also, by removing your fuel cap and unhooking the supply line, if you evern do run it completely empty, that would release the vacuum.