77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[76zimmer]

whats wrong with this pic....

The cage part is missing from the front...the roof hoop, windshield down bars for the A pillars, and the dash cross bar.

this kit is the 8 point bar kit S&W #11-1019 with the family bar kit #13-1519

The 10 point cage kit is 11-1519.

So after talking with Candi at S&W, they offer a conversion kit that will make the 8 point bar into the 10 point cage. another 200 shipped...so this cage kit will be close to a grand for the DOM pipe. If I would have ordered the right one to begin with, I could have saved a Ben Franklin. Ignorance cost is up to at least a couple grand right now on this project

 

[boostn54]

please post the build, I am working on my 89 k5 with the dana 60 and 14bolt right now and having some questions about the steering and also the front brake calipers and tie rod wont clear the hummer wheels, havent been able to find much on this

 

[76zimmer]

boostn....I don't have hummer rims, but check out the build when you have time from the beginning. I've tried to go into detail with things that I thought would help others as yourself, and also to get some answers for myself. There is a lot of new ground on this build for me, and these guys have been a huge asset while taking on this build. It is money well spent to be a member, to get the experience of the group.

 

[sweetk30]

please post the build, I am working on my 89 k5 with the dana 60 and 14bolt right now and having some questions about the steering and also the front brake calipers and tie rod wont clear the hummer wheels, havent been able to find much on this

best money you can spend is $25 bucks for full 1 year here with tons of pics and full use of site.

lots of info on hummer wheels and dana 60 /14 ff swap . plus great clean friendly site. i have been here a few years.

 

[Greg72]

Subscribed!!!!

Not sure how I've missed this one for so long, but there's lot of great stuff going on in here!

 

[76zimmer]

Thanks Greg, hoping to get back to it pretty soon with a vengance....gotta get the Vette going first...I got it to make some noise today!!!!

 

[boostn54]

great thanks guys

 

[76zimmer]

I put the conversion brackets on the heads/block today, and bolted up my serp setup from a SBC system. The lower side of the pass serp bracket has an opening there for ????. Am I missing something like an air pump that goes there? Do I need to have that part of the bracket, as it is in front of the fuel pump. I wouldn't mind cutting that part of the bracket off if its not needed. The mounting ears on the lower part of the bracket are below this opening, so it shouldn't be affected by the removal of some of the bracket. The A/C compressor goes on the pass top (which I am using the replacement idler unit instead of a compressor), The alternator goes on the drivers side top, and the PS pump goes on the drivers side lower position. I just don't see what I need in that position.

 

[folkenheath]

The A/C compressor goes on the pass top (which I am using the replacement idler unit instead of a compressor), The alternator goes on the drivers side top, and the PS pump goes on the drivers side lower position. I just don't see what I need in that position.

It's for the "SMOG" or A.I.R. pump.

Another idea instead of the idler pully on the top is a york for on-board air. It's an idler pulley until you flip the switch for the clutch, then it's an air compressor! Works great coming off the sand at Silver Lake.

 

[nvrenuf]

The half moon on the lower pass side is for an smog pump. There are brackets out there without that half moon, it just tapers to a point on the bottom. I've seen them mostly on 4.3's.

 

[GRINCH]

Ignorance cost is up to at least a couple grand right now on this project

I think most of us have paid that ignorance fee a time or two.

 

[76zimmer]

It's for the "SMOG" or A.I.R. pump.

Another idea instead of the idler pully on the top is a york for on-board air. It's an idler pulley until you flip the switch for the clutch, then it's an air compressor! Works great coming off the sand at Silver Lake.

I like it Heath....are special brackets needed to bolt into the serp bracket?

So, I'll need to get the brackets fully mounted to the engine then see what I need to finish the setup.
I have to grind a little off the pass bracket, as it hits the waterpump slightly. I also need to replace some of the hardware in the kit, because it don't fit.
I think I will also run a remote reservoir for the PS pump, so out of the parts I got at the junkyard, I hope I can come up with a setup for that.

 

[76zimmer]

I think most of us have paid that ignorance fee a time or two.

Hey Dennis. I think the ignorance fee is still cheap in comparison to hiring out labor....I don't think I'd want to see that bill


"nvrenuf:
The half moon on the lower pass side is for an smog pump. There are brackets out there without that half moon, it just tapers to a point on the bottom. I've seen them mostly on 4.3's."


Cool, so I don't need to worry about it really, If I need the room to make access to the fuel pump better, I can hack it off, and go with a shorter serp belt.

 

[82355]

All that money invested and no A/C???

Martin

 

[rufusbooth]

In the spot you would normally put the A.I.R pump you could install a second alternator that has been converted to an on board welder. That is what I am putting in my empty bracket.


Great project! You keep inspiring me to work on my junk.

Cheers,
Rufus

 

[76zimmer]

No AC....truck didn't have it, and I don't feel like I'll NEED it.

Rufus....sounds like another great idea....I guess I'll leave that bracket alone for that possibility in the future. Nice to have options. So do you need like a 200 amp alt. to do that....I've never been down that road...off road welding?

 

[folkenheath]

I like it Heath....are special brackets needed to bolt into the serp bracket?

Well, you have a couple options. You can buy this one...

http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/KE-4000.htm

Or, you can make your own if you have a welder and a cutoff wheel or something. I made my own.

Also, for the pump, you can go find one at the junk yard from an old Ford or Volvo. Or you can go to the parts store and buy one from an early 80s Volvo. I got mine at O' reilly for $140. The serpentine clutch I bought brand new for about $100 at a truck parts place. You can do it super cheap and maybe have less than $150 in it if you buy all used parts and make your own bracket. Or you can buy a whole kit from Kilby for $1200. Or you can go in between like I did and build your own kit from new/reman/self fabbed parts, I probably have about $400 in it.

There is a york install writeup in the tech section. Or I can tell you what parts I used on mine. Check my albums if you want to see it.

Or you can save time and money and just put the idler pulley on there. You can always replace it with the york later.

 

[rufusbooth]

Rufus....sounds like another great idea....I guess I'll leave that bracket alone for that possibility in the future. Nice to have options. So do you need like a 200 amp alt. to do that....I've never been down that road...off road welding?

It is certainly nice to be able to weld out on the trail if something breaks. There are a couple ways to do it. You really only need a common 100 amp alternator but bigger is always better.

The older alts are easier to convert but I am going with a little more added complexity to get a better alt.

Quick writeup I found on the easy method:
http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3637

And the alternator I will be using. It requires more internal mods but the alternator is much beefier and able to handle much more current.

http://home.comcast.net/~t.molnar/Obwelder1.htm


Certainly something to keep in the back of your mind as a future option for that extra bracket.

Cheers,

Rufus

 

[76zimmer]

It is certainly nice to be able to weld out on the trail if something breaks. There are a couple ways to do it. You really only need a common 100 amp alternator but bigger is always better.

The older alts are easier to convert but I am going with a little more added complexity to get a better alt.

Quick writeup I found on the easy method:
http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3637

And the alternator I will be using. It requires more internal mods but the alternator is much beefier and able to handle much more current.

http://home.comcast.net/~t.molnar/Obwelder1.htm


Certainly something to keep in the back of your mind as a future option for that extra bracket.

Cheers,

Rufus

Heath and Rufus, thanks for the ideas and links about on board air, and welding.....that would really be cool for future upgrades.

I Found the idler pulley for the lower opening. Found it when I was looking for the A/C replacement pulley I "knew" I had somewhere.
It was stashed on the shelf of "stuff" I've collected...just overlooked it.
So I got the brackets on and slightly modded where the waterpump gives a little interference. I'm going to get bolts with a cap screw end, instead of those focking Torx....


Conversion brackets on the engine:

Water pump interference; I removed a little from the bracket....all good now

The missing link:

 

[rufusbooth]

Nice! looks like it will be easy to add on the extra goodies later. just unbolt the idler and bolt in the air compressor and alt, acquire the right length belt.

Cheers,
Rufus