Rear axle teardown
I got my C&C axle, and the 79 3/4 ton axle into the shop today to begin teardown.
I plan to use the diff out of the C&C, and put it in the 3/4t housing, with a Detroit in it.
Here's the two axles:
The C&C diff. 4.56 gears and open diff....I was thinking this thing had a gov/bomb in it. I was really pleased to find out it was open.
The 3/4t diff. open also.
Taking out the axleshafts:
Taking off the spindle nuts:
There is a locking ring first that must have the tab bent up/out of the indentation in the outer locking nut.
The you need to get the brake drum free somehow. These axles were sitting outside for a few years, and were absolutely a bitch to get the brakes loose from the drums. I ended up taking the pivot bolt at the top of the backing plate off, and pounding it in towards the drum. I beat the hell out of the adjuster wheel, and couldn't get it to budge. After pounding the pivot bolt through, and cutting off the brake shoe holding pins, the drum reluctantly came off with the shoes assembly inside the drum. I also had to slip the parking brake cable off the actuator lever inside the drum.
Glad thats done.
The 4.56 gears.
There is a part number, then the gear pinion/ring gear numbers (9/41), then the date code (8/84).
The empty housing, ready to go to the acid strippers (I'm doing this because this housing has rust inside of the axle tubes, and I want it cleaned up good):
And the pile of parts...
I got my C&C axle, and the 79 3/4 ton axle into the shop today to begin teardown.
I plan to use the diff out of the C&C, and put it in the 3/4t housing, with a Detroit in it.
Here's the two axles:
The C&C diff. 4.56 gears and open diff....I was thinking this thing had a gov/bomb in it. I was really pleased to find out it was open.
The 3/4t diff. open also.
Taking out the axleshafts:
Taking off the spindle nuts:
There is a locking ring first that must have the tab bent up/out of the indentation in the outer locking nut.
The you need to get the brake drum free somehow. These axles were sitting outside for a few years, and were absolutely a bitch to get the brakes loose from the drums. I ended up taking the pivot bolt at the top of the backing plate off, and pounding it in towards the drum. I beat the hell out of the adjuster wheel, and couldn't get it to budge. After pounding the pivot bolt through, and cutting off the brake shoe holding pins, the drum reluctantly came off with the shoes assembly inside the drum. I also had to slip the parking brake cable off the actuator lever inside the drum.
Glad thats done.
The 4.56 gears.
There is a part number, then the gear pinion/ring gear numbers (9/41), then the date code (8/84).
The empty housing, ready to go to the acid strippers (I'm doing this because this housing has rust inside of the axle tubes, and I want it cleaned up good):
And the pile of parts...
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i hear ya Dave...i look at all the badass rigs on here and try to duplicate some of the ideas.but them i realize we live in MICH and it's mostly mud.Mike did the same thing. Iroks SUCK in the mud!
the bigger the tire,the less you drag. muddy trails mean ruts.mud pits are of coarse different.trails suck as you are only as good as the size you have.if someone had 44's before you???looky!stuck bigger n chit.
