keep up the nice work! just read throught your built ,nice to see a guy be able to built his dreams!! that includes the vette. hope you can pull it off in time.
CK5
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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!
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- 14bff bearing desintigrated 454 cookies custom diy4x aluminum fuel tank diy4x flatback dif covers diy4x frame boxing kit diy4x wraptor/truss ez-efi fords suck hemi orange and school bus yellow index l&l headers long/dana coolers making me her bitch. more tranny problems one tons phoenix trans convertor th400 full manual
jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Thanks Brian, I just keep running into hurdles (some self imposed) but I think I can get this thing operable by May...The Vette too.
Thanks to Obijuan for pointing out the conflict of parts, so I won't be surprised when I get my new front output shaft, and Brett (sweetK30) for his wisdom on parts interchangability.
I can tear apart my spare 205 for the parts I need to convert this one to 32 spline out.
Thanks to Obijuan for pointing out the conflict of parts, so I won't be surprised when I get my new front output shaft, and Brett (sweetK30) for his wisdom on parts interchangability.
I can tear apart my spare 205 for the parts I need to convert this one to 32 spline out.
I don't think the shift rail and slider ring be different unless the NP 205 had the synchronized front output then everything from the rear cover forward have to be changed.Its for the 205 front output...its stock 30 spline with a drive flange, and I'm going to 32 spline (shaft) to run a 1410 yoke on it. Then I'll have 1410's on both ends of both driveshafts.
As far as the matching shift fork, and slider ring??? I have an extra 80 model 205, maybe that will have the parts in it I need.
Oh goody get to tear apart more sh!t....
My dad (Norm) came out and helped me yesterday for a while. I really treasure this time with him....he's almost 80 now, and still gets around pretty good.
We worked on putting the hubs and stuff on the D60, and putting new poly bushings in the front springs.
We also checked the Dana BOM numbers stamped into the front of the drivers side tube. I know probably everyone knows about them, but here is where they're at:
a close up of the numbers. Mine reveal a 82-87 w/4.56 and 1.5 inner axles and other typical goodies for those years production:
There is an chart on Pirate Billa Vista that explains all the numbers.
Here is a pic of Norms Hat:
He's a funny ole dude who loves his Jeeps (48-CJ2A/69-DJ5), and he got that hat years ago when he got his stainless Ruger 44 Redhawk.
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We worked on putting the hubs and stuff on the D60, and putting new poly bushings in the front springs.
We also checked the Dana BOM numbers stamped into the front of the drivers side tube. I know probably everyone knows about them, but here is where they're at:
a close up of the numbers. Mine reveal a 82-87 w/4.56 and 1.5 inner axles and other typical goodies for those years production:
There is an chart on Pirate Billa Vista that explains all the numbers.
Here is a pic of Norms Hat:
He's a funny ole dude who loves his Jeeps (48-CJ2A/69-DJ5), and he got that hat years ago when he got his stainless Ruger 44 Redhawk.
.
Recon!
Maniac
do you have a link to that chart about the axles?
"That"?Here is a pic of that 205 front ouput assembly with the syncronizer setup.
Is "that" your front output?
yep:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/D60%20Front%20Shafts.html
here is the billavista D60 pages:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
Yes, that is the 30 spline stock shaft and gears for the front output of the 205.. that is the assembly to be replaced with the new 32 spline shaft, and the gears without the syncronizer (from my spare 205), and the 1410 yoke.
Looking back, I should have used the spare 205 figure 8 (27 spline input)to begin with, as I had to replace the input on the round 205 anyway (it was too long).
I have that book if you need me to look anything up for you.
Did you verify if you have the HD snap ring?
Also, nice choice on the pistons, quality pieces.
Heath, does it say anything about adjustments to the band apply pin for the rear band? I know it takes a special tool according to the GM service manual, but does it give another procedure for checking it?
I changed the direct drum, and the band, so would like to check that.
I changed the direct drum, and the band, so would like to check that.
Yes there is another way by removing the spring and checking clearance with palm pressure on the cover or something, and there is a trick to it but I forgot, I will try to look it up tonight if I have time. There is a way to do it without the tool. Basically you just need to make sure there is still clearance and if not you can grind a tiny bit off the tip until there is, no tool necessary. I'll look up the exact procedure.
I put my hubs/rotors on my D60 today, and I'll throw these pics up of the spindle nuts, and the washer between them, just for a reference. SweetK30 identified there was 2 types of spindle nut assemblies used. My axle has the later version.
From left to right:
Outer spindle nut without pin/center washer with holes/Inner spindle nut with pin.
Warning....take care that your spindle nut socket does not interfere with the pin on the inner nut. It can shear the pin off if interference is encountered
These instructions are from the 1985 Chevrolet light truck service manual.
1) After the outer bearing is installed, the spindle nut with the pin on it faces out toward the lockout. Tighten to 50 lbs/ft, while turning the rotor/hub. Loosen the nut, and tighten again to 50 lbs/ft. With Auto hubs loosen and tighten to 30 lbs/ft. With MANUAL hubs, loosen the nut enough to spin the bearing freely. (to me, that meant enough to feel the hub/rotor spinning freely, with the only drag being from the grease in the bearing)
2) Install the center washer with the holes in it, so that tang on the washer lines up with the slot in the spindle. If necessary loosen the inner spindle nut to line up the pin with one of the holes in the washer.
3) Install outer spindle nut (without the pin) and tighten to a minimum of 160 lbs/ft.
From left to right:
Outer spindle nut without pin/center washer with holes/Inner spindle nut with pin.
Warning....take care that your spindle nut socket does not interfere with the pin on the inner nut. It can shear the pin off if interference is encountered
These instructions are from the 1985 Chevrolet light truck service manual.
1) After the outer bearing is installed, the spindle nut with the pin on it faces out toward the lockout. Tighten to 50 lbs/ft, while turning the rotor/hub. Loosen the nut, and tighten again to 50 lbs/ft. With Auto hubs loosen and tighten to 30 lbs/ft. With MANUAL hubs, loosen the nut enough to spin the bearing freely. (to me, that meant enough to feel the hub/rotor spinning freely, with the only drag being from the grease in the bearing)
2) Install the center washer with the holes in it, so that tang on the washer lines up with the slot in the spindle. If necessary loosen the inner spindle nut to line up the pin with one of the holes in the washer.
3) Install outer spindle nut (without the pin) and tighten to a minimum of 160 lbs/ft.
Build cost update:
Previous total to date.........................$12599
Rear axle total to date .................$1461 includes $100 purchase price
Transmission total to date...............$812 includes $150 purchase price
Transfer case doubler to date........$1904 includes $200 205/203 purchase price.
454 Engine total to date...............$4605 includes 500$ short block, 100$ heads.
D60 Build to date.........................$2600 includes 500$ purchase price.
Project cost to date.....................$14689
Previous total to date.........................$12599
Rear axle total to date .................$1461 includes $100 purchase price
Transmission total to date...............$812 includes $150 purchase price
Transfer case doubler to date........$1904 includes $200 205/203 purchase price.
454 Engine total to date...............$4605 includes 500$ short block, 100$ heads.
D60 Build to date.........................$2600 includes 500$ purchase price.
Project cost to date.....................$14689
Thanks Heath, that would be a big help, and I get the idea behind what your saying there.
In the meantime:
I don't care what anybody thinks, but I think a clean engine block is just a sexy thing
.
I don't care what anybody thinks, but I think a clean engine block is just a sexy thing
Man, we're right on that....
How come my stock steel 16" wheels don't fit my D60? (Note the scuffed up paint on the caliper bracket, and caliper)
And my Dually wheels don't fit the SRW hubs either WTF?
I hope like hell my 16.5 aluminum rims will fit
All stock brake components?
Yes AJ....I got the hubs/rotors from GM parts direct, and calipers are Cardone from a local parts house. those steel wheels are from a 3/4t chevy 16x7, and I just want to use them for roll arounds, but I was surprised they don't fit.
