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77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

jack of all trades build, overland, dunes, rocks, trails
Overview Gallery Discussion
76zimmer said:
Dude my fab skills are zilch....I haven't done much fab myself. I have gained enough confidence and ideas from a lot of other stuff going on in this site, to make a stab at it myself. I'm learning alot going through this build, and I probably wouldn't have taken it to this level without the knowledge and sharing of this site. So many helpful people here.
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Zim,

This is what it's all about. Try things and learn something new....every welder on the planet was a newb once and layed down huge booger-blob welds at first. In my opinion, this hobby is a lot more about the "journey" than anything else.... Being able to learn and improve skills along the way is a huge part of the satisfaction. Keep going and keep pushing yourself out of your comfort zone, things are looking great! :thumb:


:usaflag:
 
Hey Greg, comments much appreciated....with that little Pep talk, I'm headed out to make some more booger welds:D
I've had some weld coaching the last week or so, so hopefully I can make em look better.
 
I wouldn't call those booger welds. They look pretty good to me. Sure, they aren't perfectly pretty, but they'll do the job. :waytogo:

(at least I hope so - that's how my welds look :D)

CK5 should get comission from Lincoln and Miller. How many welders have been purchased by CK5'ers taking their builds to the next level?
 
To clarify:

I wasn't saying Zim's weld photos were boogers....

The point was more a general comment about every welders FIRST welds, usually porous, bubbly and filled with outcroppings of contamination. Or so uneven and crooked that it looks like they were done with eyes closed and the nozzle skipping and bouncing off the part.

:D




:usaflag:
 
Greg72 said:
To clarify:

I wasn't saying Zim's weld photos were boogers....

The point was more a general comment about every welders FIRST welds, usually porous, bubbly and filled with outcroppings of contamination. Or so uneven and crooked that it looks like they were done with eyes closed and the nozzle skipping and bouncing off the part.

:D




:usaflag:
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I didn't take it that way Greg....but I know I've been there, and have a lot to learn.

Todays shop progress....alot of trial and error and redesign :doah:

I'm frustrated.:confused:
 
76zimmer said:
I didn't take it that way Greg....but I know I've been there, and have a lot to learn.

Todays shop progress....alot of trial and error and redesign :doah:

I'm frustrated.:confused:
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Keep pushing on Dave, redesign is progress, doesn't feel like it but it is nonetheless
 
I will Eric, just have to reposition a couple of the frame plates, of course that meant moving the temporary crossmember I had in there, so I jack up the bottom of the cradle, using plywood/milkcrate/plywood to be able to get the jack high enough, and as I let the jack down a little the milkcrate breaks letting the whole assembly drop down about a foot....Well DIY4X engine mounts are made pretty damn stout, because it was all hanging by those 2 engine mounts....I used 4x6 pieces to jack it up the 2nd time....what a dumba$$ to use that crate anyway, but hey it was the first thing in sight to use, and it was only just a short jack to reposition the temporary crossmember I had on the output yoke.....got away with that one...whew.
 
76zimmer said:
the whole assembly drop down about a foot....Well DIY4X engine mounts are made pretty damn stout, because it was all hanging by those 2 engine mounts....got away with that one...whew.
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:eek1:

Glad everything is OK, you might want to inspect those bushings before you run them.

Keep up the good work Dave, and don't be afraid to redo things. You don't want to get it all done and think, "I wish I would of changed that while I was building it". I had to change several brackets and stuff while building my front suspension, and I am glad I did because I am 100% happy with it so far. The only way to know is to make it and try it sometimes.
 
folkenheath said:
:eek1:

Glad everything is OK, you might want to inspect those bushings before you run them.

Keep up the good work Dave, and don't be afraid to redo things. You don't want to get it all done and think, "I wish I would of changed that while I was building it". I had to change several brackets and stuff while building my front suspension, and I am glad I did because I am 100% happy with it so far. The only way to know is to make it and try it sometimes.
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I will Heath, everything has to come back apart again, so I can look at them then...my rethinking has just led me to reposition the mounting plates on the frame, that should work for what I need to accomplish.


BGKYK5 said:
I was referring to Zim's booger comment in post 1142. :waytogo:
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Boogers are getting way to much attention here :haha::haha::haha:
 
Got the parts to fix my deer hit today, so I worked on getting my truck right again....no more coon shining headlight, and busted out turn signals.

misc023.jpg


I'll replace this bumper cover at a later date if/when I take the bumper off.

misc027.jpg




Here is the situation with my mounting plates on the frame, just a miscalculation on location of bolt holes....I'm glad I only have the plates tacked right now to the frame, I can easily move them back enough to use that partially blocked lower bolt hole....

misc024.jpg



Here is the rear crossmember support to the cradle in its location:

misc025.jpg


I got these made up today too for the front mounting links to the frame/cradle

misc026.jpg
 
ryoken said:
dig the slots.........

what's your wheelbase? did you move axles at all?
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I've decided to move the rear axle back 4" by using the 56" springs and putting the 26" part of the spring to the rear, and the 30" to the front. This may require moving/reworking the gas tank mounting, but now is a good time to do it.
 
I got the frame plates for the rear crossmember relocated, welded in, and ready for the crossmember

Ironmaiden022.jpg


Then I bolted the crossmember plates to the frame plates, and tacked the crossmember to them. I then took everything out for bench welding and cleanup and paint. This shows how the bolts will clear the crossmember now.

Ironmaiden020.jpg


Not to shabby for a newb...

Ironmaiden021.jpg



Installed, I really like how this is turning out:

Ironmaiden023.jpg


Ironmaiden024.jpg


Ironmaiden025.jpg



I should have about 1/2" of room between the ubolt nuts on the yoke and the crossmember:

Ironmaiden026.jpg
 
Zim,

Do you own a set of transfer punches? You can pick up a set pretty cheaply and they are great for helping to transfer exact hole positions from the original plate to the backing plate so that the bolts will fit perfectly.

I can't tell from your description if your recent issue was a misaligned hole or a hole that was partially blocked somehow by other parts.

I use transfer punches all the time, they are a great time saver.


:usaflag:
 
I do not own a set of those Greg, but they sound like a valuable tool. Are they easy to find?

I made my holes by scibing them out 1" from each corner on the crossmember plate, then I tacked the crossmember plate and the frame plate together, then drilled the holes for each pair on a drill press, to keep them perfectly aligned. That part worked out well.
The problem came from having tacked the frame plates to the frame in a position that caused the crossmember to be too close to one of the bolt holes on each side.
That made me have to move my temporary crossmember (and the subsequent testing of the DIY4X engine mounts) to a different location to allow better placement of the permanent frame plates. As the pics above show, it all worked out well, but it was just another one of those "take a step backwards" moments that I find all to often.:D
 
Yes, that will come later after most of the fab and mockup phase is completed.
I still have to figure out things like shock mounting, rear antiwrap bar mounting, brakeline routing, exhaust routing, etc. before I box it in.
 
Check out Harbor Frieght.... You can find a simple set for around $20

The basic idea is that you put the largest punch that will fit through the 1st hole and the point on the punch will create a perfectly centered "dimple" on the plate behind it when you tap it with a hammer.

Then you just center up your drill bit on the dimple and create the 2nd hole.

Works slick.


:usaflag:
 
We have a local Harbor Freight in Kzoo, I hate going there though, as its almost exclusively Chinawanese sh!t. Not that I don't have any of their junk in my shop, but as time goes by, I hate the thought of funding China's military machine.

Thanks for the tip Greg, I'll get over there someday and see what I can blow money on....its like going to Sams....hard to get out with only one thing you went in after.
 
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