CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Thanks for the links JD

So this is what they are huh:



ENUSA-91.gif
0429317A-11.jpg
Transfer Punch Sets Tool Type: Transfer Punch Set Punch Size Range: 3/32 - 1/2 x 64ths & 17/32 Number of Pieces: 28 Tool Type: Transfer Punch SetPunch Size Range: 3/32 - 1/2 x 64ths & 17/32Number of Pieces: 28Fractional Size: 3/32; 7/64; 1/8; 9/64; 5/32; 11/64; 3/16; 13/64; 7/32; 15/64; 1/4; 17/64; 9/32; 19/64; 5/16; 21/64; 11/32; 23/64; 3/8; 25/64; 13/32; 27/64; 7/16; 29/64; 15/32; 31/64; 1/2; 17/32Shank Type: RoundContainer Type: Stand Model #505-0438Low Price: $52.98 eaAvailability: In Stock




Odd thing is, I've found a set of these in a drawer in the shop at work, but didn't know what they were for exactly, so I left them alone....

Anyone know if the points on the Cheap ones last, or do they round over after a few uses?
 
Zim,

I've got a cheap set and the points are lasting fine. Even the made in USA ones look like the same exact holder and punches as the chiwaneesers.

:dunno:


:usaflag:
 
Zim,

I've got a cheap set and the points are lasting fine. Even the made in USA ones look like the same exact holder and punches as the chiwaneesers.

:dunno:


:usaflag:
:haha::haha::haha:

Cool Greg, I'll probably hit up HF when I get on that side of town....
Thanks again.:waytogo:
 
I have the HF set too. No issues yet...

Good to know Greg, and BG....nice to have some real world experience with stuff before you buy....I just bought a Rockwell 4" belt sander....POS...sending it back, nice Christmas present I bought myself...now I gotta get something better because after using one, its one of those "gotta have it now", kinda things.

I did get one of the front links to the cradle done today....man this fabbing stuff can drive ya nuts....measure once, measure twice, cut, trial fit....wrong, now make adjustments to the bad piece, cut a little more here, grind a little off that edge to get the angle right....OK better, do that a couple more times and it fits like I wanted it too. Only took a couple hours....:rolleyes:

Anyhow here is what I got today:

Ironmaiden027.jpg



This has some twist to it, which for me was a little challenging, the cradle sits at an angle to the frame, which meant going from one plane of the cradle, and twist a few degrees to another plane of the frame....

Ironmaiden028.jpg


Ironmaiden029.jpg




Installed:

Ironmaiden030.jpg


Ironmaiden031.jpg


Ironmaiden032.jpg
 
Looks bad a$$, man! :thumb:

Thanks, I'm liking it myself...you know that part looks like it could be done in 45-60 minutes, but its taken me about 6 hours :dunno:.

x2! :waytogo:

I'm still not 100% sure about the whole cradle being soft mounted - but the fab quality is very good. Are you sure you are just learning to weld? :rolleyes: :D

BG, do you see an inherent problem with my design, or do you just think its overkill on mounting?

And my welding history started about 25 years ago, by taking a beginners class at a local Comm. College. I never had a welder til about 10 years ago, and had forgot so much...it was a borrowed Lincoln 225 box. So stick welding was about all I had, then about 5 years ago the borrowed box went back home, so I got nothing....About 2 years ago I decide to by this Lilncoln PRO MIG 175 kit....and I just got that on gas about 2 months ago....and it just keeps getting better. I've talked with Blazinzuk, and Rene' about some welding tips, and that has helped me alot (thanks CK5 again). I get decent looking welds most of the time, but my technique, and knowledge have a long way to go sometimes. Eric is coming out in April to help me with the cage construction...I'm really looking forward to that. His experience will be invaluable, but I'll pay him in Chicago stuffed pizza.:laugh: .:waytogo:
I really like benchwelding what I can, because it's so much easier to get in a good position to flow the weld path with your hand that way. And an ideal horizontal/nozzle down position too! That makes a big difference for me.
 
Looking forward to said payment. The only issue you nay have is too much movement in the drivetrain, but you won't know about that till you get the thing running
 
So if that is the case, I could take out the shock mounting bushings and solid mount the cradle to the doubler setup right?
It would pull the cradle a little tighter to the doubler, and would drop the doubler about 1/4-3/8". Shouldn't be a problem if I need to.
 
Oh man that looks great!! I know what you mean about welding on a bench, much ezeer" sp" I can`t weld upsidedown with my wirefead worth a sh#t.
 
Last edited:
So if that is the case, I could take out the shock mounting bushings and solid mount the cradle to the doubler setup right?
It would pull the cradle a little tighter to the doubler, and would drop the doubler about 1/4-3/8". Shouldn't be a problem if I need to.

Yep that's why its a great design
 
So if that is the case, I could take out the shock mounting bushings and solid mount the cradle to the doubler setup right?
It would pull the cradle a little tighter to the doubler, and would drop the doubler about 1/4-3/8". Shouldn't be a problem if I need to.

I think the design is going to be fine, you only want the tcase mounts to control the weight, not the torque. If you do decide to remove some of the mounts, in my opinion I would remove the outer mounts, NOT the inner mounts. If you solid mount the cradle to the doubler, then you just moved your bushings out to as wide or wider than your engine mounts, and therefore you are resisting torque through the transmission, which is a bad thing with a high torque big block, it can result in busted trans cases. It may be fine and it may not, but why would you want to take that chance?

The only thing I see that is odd is your angled mounts that bolt to the inside of your frame. They look strong themselves (except I would add a triangle gusset to the bottom), but there is nothing supporting them from twisting the the frame and sagging down, which means most of the weight will be supported by your main crossmember. If both sides were connected somehow it would be a lot stronger. However, since your cradle is mounted in more than one position it will want to remain level front/back, which will transfer some of the weight to the those brackets.

By the way, it's hard to tell, you still have room for exhaust getting by those front brackets?

I think your fab work looks good Dave, keep up the good work. You are going to feel real good when you get this all done. I still think you should put a lawn chair on that frame and drive it around the yard!

I look forward to seeing that thing in person some day.
 
BG, do you see an inherent problem with my design, or do you just think its overkill on mounting?

My only concern is that you have bushings on both ends of the cradle (cradle to frame and cradle to doubler). If you do end up with too much draivetrain movement you can just eliminate the frame to cradle bushings as you said.
 
Oh man that looks great!! I know what you mean about welding on a bench, much ezeer" sp" I can`t weld upsidedown with my wirefead worth a sh#t.

Is there a special wire for welding in a up position?

Maybe a little more heat, and a little less wire would help.
 
I think the design is going to be fine, you only want the tcase mounts to control the weight, not the torque. If you do decide to remove some of the mounts, in my opinion I would remove the outer mounts, NOT the inner mounts. If you solid mount the cradle to the doubler, then you just moved your bushings out to as wide or wider than your engine mounts, and therefore you are resisting torque through the transmission, which is a bad thing with a high torque big block, it can result in busted trans cases. It may be fine and it may not, but why would you want to take that chance?

The only thing I see that is odd is your angled mounts that bolt to the inside of your frame. They look strong themselves (except I would add a triangle gusset to the bottom), but there is nothing supporting them from twisting the the frame and sagging down, which means most of the weight will be supported by your main crossmember. If both sides were connected somehow it would be a lot stronger. However, since your cradle is mounted in more than one position it will want to remain level front/back, which will transfer some of the weight to the those brackets.

By the way, it's hard to tell, you still have room for exhaust getting by those front brackets?

I think your fab work looks good Dave, keep up the good work. You are going to feel real good when you get this all done. I still think you should put a lawn chair on that frame and drive it around the yard!

I look forward to seeing that thing in person some day.


Yep that's why its a great design


My only concern is that you have bushings on both ends of the cradle (cradle to frame and cradle to doubler). If you do end up with too much draivetrain movement you can just eliminate the frame to cradle bushings as you said.

I will have to put the torque to it when the time comes to see how much movement there is....an underbody camera would be ideal eh?
 
Is there a special wire for welding in a up position?

Maybe a little more heat, and a little less wire would help.
The pro welders I have talked to say it`s the same,I just havent found out the way yet, maybe it`s me or my 20 year old welder... more than likely just me:doah:
 
You will know right away if you have too much movement Dave. :D

No need for cameras

Now you got me worried more about it :dunno:. It is what it is for now. :whistle:



The pro welders I have talked to say it`s the same,I just havent found out the way yet, maybe it`s me or my 20 year old welder... more than likely just me:doah:

I sure don't know, I was just taking a stab at some ideas that I've heard. Hit up Eric (blazinzuk) or Rene' (tRustyK5), they have a ton of experience with that stuff, and have helped me quite a bit already.
 
Top Bottom