77K5. The IronMaiden...9/2 headed for Blazer Bash 20!

[blazinzuk]

So I went outside on my Jimmy and had Bailey turn the wheel (which is kind of hard for a 4 yr old). While I watched the shackles. The bottom did not move hardly at all. This might change when you are bound up hard but thats not going to be very often. Since you are pretty sure you have super lift 6" springs, that would be the same as what I have. But all my mounts are still factory rubber.

I then decided to set up the video camera and just film it while I turned the wheel faster and to full lock (Bailey couldn't really get it to full lock she would give up too soon ) Even at full lock pushing against the wheel it didn't move even close to as much as Hortons shackles move(soft 56s). Maybe total movement at the shackle of a 1/4 inch.

I think Heath is onto something with the stover bolt. They taper down just a bit on the sides too so if it does contact the collecter it will help it slide over.

So I think its totally do able to move the top mounts forward a bit. As long as you can get the welds ground down Dave (freakin newb)

 

[76zimmer]

worked on a SNAFU today....tried mounting my ORD triple sticks and the brackets hit my exhaust mounting..., so I modified the bracket that bolts to the front output seal retainer, so I got clearance now.


Imagine this bracket (ORD stock) hitting the saddle for the exhaust coming thru right there.

had to cut and weld in 2 places to keep the angle right and get the clearance I need..

Then mounted the other muffler....waiting on exhaust parts to get here..

 

[76zimmer]

Dave, what I would do is buy stover nuts, the all metal locking nuts, which are thinner than the nylon lock nuts. Then, cut the bolt off flush with the nut. Because I think the nylon nut that close to the header collector is not going to do anything anyway, they are limited at like 250 deg or something.

Also, I would not flip the bolt around if it's going to be blocked by the header, , the head is not much thinner than a stover nut, and you don't want to have to remove the header just to replace a shackle bushing.

Also, it's looking good Dave, I know you can have it working this summer....


"YOU CAN DO IT" (with a Rob Snyder voice)

I may be up for a meet and greet depending on the schedule that week.

Great points Heath, I was looking more at that bolt on the pass side today, and it would not be able to come out with the header on. The stovernut may be a big help there.

Could you bend the headers in alittle to give you more room?
Or would that give problems with the starter getting to hot?
Also those headers look $$$ so maybe you wouldn`t like to do that.

I`m happy you got snow, makes me feel better
I should have looked at the trees in your pic and seen the fall colours

I don't want to really try that Max....looking for other options, just don't like the thought of heating and bending an expensive set of headers.

I guess we'll get a lot of snow coming in the next couple days too. Yeah keep on winter, I hate the thought of having to mow again (my mower deck needs repair too)

So I went outside on my Jimmy and had Bailey turn the wheel (which is kind of hard for a 4 yr old). While I watched the shackles. The bottom did not move hardly at all. This might change when you are bound up hard but thats not going to be very often. Since you are pretty sure you have super lift 6" springs, that would be the same as what I have. But all my mounts are still factory rubber.

I then decided to set up the video camera and just film it while I turned the wheel faster and to full lock (Bailey couldn't really get it to full lock she would give up too soon ) Even at full lock pushing against the wheel it didn't move even close to as much as Hortons shackles move(soft 56s). Maybe total movement at the shackle of a 1/4 inch.

I think Heath is onto something with the stover bolt. They taper down just a bit on the sides too so if it does contact the collecter it will help it slide over.

So I think its totally do able to move the top mounts forward a bit. As long as you can get the welds ground down Dave (freakin newb)

minimal movement sounds good right now....

and I knew there were people watching this thread waiting for me to screw up again

....thanks Eric, I know I deserved it

 

[phreddei166]

Now that is a TO-DO-LIST. Figure you can sleep and eat for 4 hours a day and work on the truck the rest of the time and you'll be done by June.

 

[Xtremegmc80]

I think my springs are Superlift 6", they are 5 leaf as is. I may be try to move the shackle mount forward, if it looks feasible.

he bought those springs off me ur right they are superlift softrides. im proud to have something that was mine on ur truck, now i got rough country 4 inch lift, and its alright

 

[jekquistk5]

Dave your checklist is almost as long as mine. Good thing I had a shawn like weekend and got a crap load done. Hope to get to stage 2 this weekend. but as of now I'm waiting on a Summit order

 

[blazinzuk]

So just for reference this is the shackle angle with a 6" superlift soft ride spring, stock shackle

That is with a 6.2 so as heavy as a big block. Full bodied no winch but I guarantee that will provide no noticeable change on the shackle angle

 

[76zimmer]

Now that is a TO-DO-LIST. Figure you can sleep and eat for 4 hours a day and work on the truck the rest of the time and you'll be done by June.

Right....I'm happy to get 4 hours a day in the shop! I really want to get it usable by June 1. I can work on little things, and maybe some upgrades later, but I need to get the basic package working.

he bought those springs off me ur right they are superlift softrides. im proud to have something that was mine on ur truck, now i got rough country 4 inch lift, and its alright

Thanks for chiming in Rich. I'm glad to have em too.

Dave your checklist is almost as long as mine. Good thing I had a shawn like weekend and got a crap load done. Hope to get to stage 2 this weekend. but as of now I'm waiting on a Summit order

Holy crap Jess, I just checked your build and what you listed, what other stuff you got planned?

So just for reference this is the shackle angle with a 6" superlift soft ride spring, stock shackle

That is with a 6.2 so as heavy as a big block. Full bodied no winch but I guarantee that will provide no noticeable change on the shackle angle

Soooooooooo, your saying your good with it, or you gonna move your hangers?

 

[jekquistk5]

So just for reference this is the shackle angle with a 6" superlift soft ride spring, stock shackle

That is with a 6.2 so as heavy as a big block. Full bodied no winch but I guarantee that will provide no noticeable change on the shackle angle

I see you have the High clearance exhaust on that K5

 

[blazinzuk]

I may leave the high clearance exhaust on it Jess, keeps me from getting stupid with it

Dave I am going to move the hangers eventually. It should improve the ride some and give me some more down travel.

I want to move the shackle mostly for ride improvement. With your rig Dave flex is going to be important. Not so much for this rig

 

[jekquistk5]

I may leave the high clearance exhaust on it Jess, keeps me from getting stupid with it

Dave I am going to move the hangers eventually. It should improve the ride some and give me some more down travel.

I want to move the shackle mostly for ride improvement. With your rig Dave flex is going to be important. Not so much for this rig

thats what i thought for my dmax too, then I end up doing stuff like this

 

[bronc3buster842001]

All the shiny new parts and used mufflers. WTF.

 

[76zimmer]

oh a ball buster huh?

Yeah, got em for cheap from a member here!

And its the sound that counts....BBC and 40's baby!

 

[bronc3buster842001]

Nothing wrong with cheap. Thats why it's taking me 4 years on my project.

 

[folkenheath]

And its the sound that counts....BBC and 40's baby!

Dave, I'm all about big blocks with 40s, wish I could put them on mine, but there is one main reason I am not going to do it, Silver Lake. If you are over a certain dB there they won't let you in. They do testing on a "who will I pick on today" basis, but my friend with a 400hp SB and 40s they wouldn't let him in. So he bought 50 series, still wouldn't let him in. He ended up having to choke his motor to death by adding supertraps at the end in addition to his 50s. And he is in his upper 40s with a fiberglass Jeep so clean that you could eat off the floor boards, not exactly a trouble maker.

My Hooker aerochambers are real quiet at low RPM, never had a problem there, but I hate the glass pack type bark I get now with the BB that wasn't there with the small block, so I will probably ditch them and get the 70 series. Same deep rumble of the 40 series, but much quieter. FYI, they test at 2500 RPM in neutral, so at WOT it can be loud, just can't be loud at 2500 RPM no load. Makes a lot of sense right.

 

[jekquistk5]

Dave, I'm all about big blocks with 40s, wish I could put them on mine, but there is one main reason I am not going to do it, Silver Lake. If you are over a certain dB there they won't let you in. They do testing on a "who will I pick on today" basis, but my friend with a 400hp SB and 40s they wouldn't let him in. So he bought 50 series, still wouldn't let him in. He ended up having to choke his motor to death by adding supertraps at the end in addition to his 50s. And he is in his upper 40s with a fiberglass Jeep so clean that you could eat off the floor boards, not exactly a trouble maker.

My Hooker aerochambers are real quiet at low RPM, never had a problem there, but I hate the glass pack type bark I get now with the BB that wasn't there with the small block, so I will probably ditch them and get the 70 series. Same deep rumble of the 40 series, but much quieter. FYI, they test at 2500 RPM in neutral, so at WOT it can be loud, just can't be loud at 2500 RPM no load. Makes a lot of sense right.

I have a DB meter if you are worried about it

 

[folkenheath]

I have a DB meter if you are worried about it

That's awesome Jess, might have to utilize that in the future. Thanks.

 

[76zimmer]

I know what you mean Heath, I've sat in line and watched them check periodically, and have watched some get tested, but I haven't seen one turned away yet....I'll keep that in mind though. Maybe a quick clamp on setup would be advantageous for such an occasion.
I'll only setup the exhaust to the mufflers right now,with that in mind.
Thanks for the reminder though.

 

[blazinzuk]

They are some money but you could use those vortex inserts up by the headers or at the very end of the exhaust.

You will want to run the exhaust all the back out to the end eventually. Carbon monoxide will get caught under the truck if you are buried in mud or sand it comes up through the floor boards pretty good.

A very scary experience taught me the importance of a full exhaust.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

They still use the flexible probe thingies to make sure you have a baffled muffler? Buddy of mine had his truck get denied due to him running straight through mufflers.