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Heath, I grooved out the joint to a VEE before welding them, so there should be a little more thickness of weld than the thickness of the metal plates themselves....does that sound OK?

I would think that would work. Thats how we weld all our gas piping at work. Grind a 45 on both pieces and weld them, then grind the welds smooth. No explosions yet!!
 
I would think that would work. Thats how we weld all our gas piping at work. Grind a 45 on both pieces and weld them, then grind the welds smooth. No explosions yet!!
Nice!

And they look strong to me... coming along , sure looks good!
 
Nice!

And they look strong to me... coming along , sure looks good!
Thanks dudes...hoping to put a good dent in the rest of the boxing kit tomorrow, and hopefully do some sandblasting on Wed....supposed to be nice out, and maybe paint by Friday:whistle:
 
Thanks dudes...hoping to put a good dent in the rest of the boxing kit tomorrow, and hopefully do some sandblasting on Wed....supposed to be nice out, and maybe paint by Friday:whistle:

I love sandblasting!! Its like wiping your butt:whistle:
 
if it wasn't a messy job that killed ya, it'd be a blast! pun intended... ;)
 
Heath, I grooved out the joint to a VEE before welding them, so there should be a little more thickness of weld than the thickness of the metal plates themselves....does that sound OK?

That sounds fine. Sometimes for clearance reasons you need to grind it flush to bolt something up (like on your washers there), but if you have more weld through the backside you'll probably be fine. I was just saying I wouldn't be grinding away weld if the only reason you are doing it is cosmetic. I think you're doing good Dave, just throwing my 2 cents at you, you can always take a baseball bat and hit it back my way. :D
 
That sounds fine. Sometimes for clearance reasons you need to grind it flush to bolt something up (like on your washers there), but if you have more weld through the backside you'll probably be fine. I was just saying I wouldn't be grinding away weld if the only reason you are doing it is cosmetic. I think you're doing good Dave, just throwing my 2 cents at you, you can always take a baseball bat and hit it back my way. :D

I'm right with you on this one heath. I always leave my welds unless i have to grind for clearance.
 
I love sandblasting!! Its like wiping your butt:whistle:
blasting the frame is one thing, but getting under the body to do the bottom side is gonna suck.

You sir have been sig'd! :haha::haha::haha::haha:
:waytogo:

if it wasn't a messy job that killed ya, it'd be a blast! pun intended... ;)
you must have a beach at your house now don't you Paul?
That sounds fine. Sometimes for clearance reasons you need to grind it flush to bolt something up (like on your washers there), but if you have more weld through the backside you'll probably be fine. I was just saying I wouldn't be grinding away weld if the only reason you are doing it is cosmetic. I think you're doing good Dave, just throwing my 2 cents at you, you can always take a baseball bat and hit it back my way. :D
It is for cosmetic reasons, which don't even make sense because no one will see them anyway????

I'm right with you on this one heath. I always leave my welds unless i have to grind for clearance.
Mine are a bunch of stitched together 2-4" long beads, most ok, but some not so good looking. I understand what you guys are saying though, and wouldn't have ground them without them being a VEE filled weld....from here on I'll save my flapdiscs' and avoid the metal dust in the air.:waytogo:
 
Don`t you nead a return line for the fuel tank?
I was thinking at work today about the frame boxing you are doing, and I don`t remember seeing one.:dunno:
 
Don`t you nead a return line for the fuel tank?
I was thinking at work today about the frame boxing you are doing, and I don`t remember seeing one.:dunno:


You don't NEED one, but some pumps are setup with a return to keep fuel circulating through the pump. My Vette doesn't have one, and I've had no problems with that. This engine doesn't seem to mind that there isn't one either.


I ran out of wire today, so finished a little early, but I did get 4 more pieces of boxing metal added. Let me say that the first kit Kert sent me was for a Short box truck, as we discussed. I used that as far as I could then made templates for him to make the rest of the kit where it differed from the SB kit. I pieced in some shorter pieces also because of my crossmember mounting plates, so I had to make pieces around those.


Now I have it boxed back to the rear spring front mounts.

Ironmaiden178.jpg


Ironmaiden177.jpg




4 pieces left to do....I'm leaving the front frame horns and the rear open up to the shackle flip brackets, because we need to mount bumpers. Once we get those mounted up we can box those areas if needbe.

Ironmaiden179.jpg
 
I was just wondering about the return line.
Your way sounds nice and simple...sweet!

I was thinking about vapor lock...maybe like in moab idleing at 110 degrees
 
Dave that frame is looking awesome. Eventually you are going to have to come out west and find a rust free body to put on that thing. Why? Cause that frame is going to out last you me and most other guys on this board by a long time!!!

Excellent Job man

Oh and my two cents on the welding grinding. I have boxed a couple frames on a couple different rigs. One was on an a square like ours but that was being hot rodded. We ground down every single weld on it but made sure to V everything. We were usually only grinding down the top 15% of the weld. Less if we were careful.

It sure looked nice when we were done. The powdercoater said he hadn't seen many frames come in that were that nice.

Unfortunately as with many things I do I forget to take pictures so no pics of it.

If you prep the weld properly (like your Vs) then grinding the weld is no problem.
 
I was just wondering about the return line.
Your way sounds nice and simple...sweet!

I was thinking about vapor lock...maybe like in moab idleing at 110 degrees

It could happen max :dunno:, but with the line being inside the boxed frame rail, it will keep direct exhaust heat off the fuel line until it gets to the pump anyway.

Dave that frame is looking awesome. Eventually you are going to have to come out west and find a rust free body to put on that thing. Why? Cause that frame is going to out last you me and most other guys on this board by a long time!!! If the body gets trashed or rusted out, its time for more tubework right?:haha:

Excellent Job man

Oh and my two cents on the welding grinding. I have boxed a couple frames on a couple different rigs. One was on an a square like ours but that was being hot rodded. We ground down every single weld on it but made sure to V everything. We were usually only grinding down the top 15% of the weld. Less if we were careful.

It sure looked nice when we were done. The powdercoater said he hadn't seen many frames come in that were that nice.

Unfortunately as with many things I do I forget to take pictures so no pics of it.

If you prep the weld properly (like your Vs) then grinding the weld is no problem.
Good talking today Eric, I'll incorporate those couple tricks you have up your sleeve into this in the next couple days:waytogo:
 
THese are the rear kickups over the axle....Kert made these off templates I sent to him from my frame....they're almost a perfect fit, a little adjustment (pulling them into place with a large C clamp works great)while tacking them in place and you have a decent mate between each edge to weld with.

Ironmaiden180.jpg


Ironmaiden181.jpg




This is a top side pic, the plate fits so good on the top side, not much material needed to be taken off before welding.

Ironmaiden182.jpg




The top is welded in here, I'll weld in the bottoms when I can turn the frame upside down

Ironmaiden183.jpg


Ironmaiden184.jpg
 
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