CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
That looks good Dave. Should keep the tank safe.
:waytogo:

I like it. looks bad a**. :thumb:
Kert's sh!t rocks :pimp:

Sweet skid plate guys! :thumb:
:bow:

Wish I would have gotten my cardboard template more exact...Kert did such an awesome job with figuring it out with what I had to give him...just seems like a hackjob now with the spacers in there...If/when I replace the floor, the gas tank will get moved up another inch or two, then I can get rid of the spacers.

Paint is drying now, I'll put it on for final install tonight when I get home from work!
 
I've been trying to think of a really smart way to do front fenderwells too...

So far the best idea I can think of is a big pile of very small diameter rod (like 1/8" or less) that can be bent into curves and tack welded between the outer fenderlip and whatever inner structure you've got to work with (cage nodes, framerail, firewall, etc).... with maybe 10 or 20 of those fitted you can flex the truck and see if the tire hits any of those rods. Cut and move as needed until everything appears to work without issue (tires straight ahead, tires turned left, tires turned right, etc).

From there you could weld other curved rods in the opposite direction, forming a large "grid" structure that will hold everything in position... and either stretch some fabric tight over the entire thing (which is then covered in fiberglass resin and layers of 'glass) or slowly fill in each square with a sheetmetal patch and weld it up solid.

Either way it sounds like a lot of work, but there would be something VERY satisfying about having front inner fender liners even with a larger set of tires! I can't recall ever seeing it done and I think it would be impressive! :waytogo:


-G

Well why not go with fiberglass, they do that and plastic on all the big rigs, the shapes are really weird so it's not easy to stamp them in steel.
The important thing is protecting the rest of the truck from mud slinging and dirty water splpashing, doesn't have to repel boulders.:dunno:
 
looks even better painted!

Ice, I like the fiberglass idea too!

HPIM3794800x600.jpg


HPIM3795800x600.jpg




hangin' from the front...clears the axle fine.

HPIM3797800x600.jpg


looks like I still got some Moab red dirt there too!
 
I'm leaving it too....be another couple years before I can get into it again!


Got the fan relays rewired and working now...ran each fan separately, the big fan is drawing about 17a steady, and a surge of 22...seem normal?

A pic of the repositioned fuel filler...gives a better route for the hose now, no kinks!

HPIM3799800x600.jpg



The rear spring pack got a couple more leaves added to it...these are from the original spring pack that were taken out...now has 6+1, instead of the 8+1...gained about 1-1/2" height overall. Needed it as my Timbrens only had about an inch of clearance before they were making contact with the spring plates.

HPIM3800800x600.jpg




full droop on the axle:

HPIM3801800x600.jpg




drilled a hole to retain the brake line in position away from the bumps:

HPIM3802800x600.jpg




and tightened a few fittings on the fuel shutoff valve:

HPIM3803800x600.jpg
 
Should get some GM wire clips instead of a zip tie. That way the line isn't rubbing against the plate.

Martin
 
Should get some GM wire clips instead of a zip tie. That way the line isn't rubbing against the plate.

Martin

What type? got a pic of what you have in mind?

And this is just cool:

fiat altered.jpg
 
The ones that have a push in spike on one side and a split circle on the other. Like they use on the headlight harness for your Blazer from the factory. The smaller one.

Martin
 
I follow now Martin, but it needs to be on a different plane from the attachment hole...is this what your thinking?

clip.jpg
 
I need something that would mount on a vertical and provide attachment to a horizontal line.
I know there is something out there like that clip with a swivel in it too.
 
Worked on a few more things today...Got the front suspension retorqued, can't believe how much things will loosen up, or settle in...I got probably 3/4 turn on the Ubolts before reaching 100#, and the Shackle bolts took another 1/2 turn or so.

The Fuel filler tube I had to reposition up a little higher, where it was located, when it was hot outside (in Moab instead of my A/C shop) the hose ended up kinking, so I moved it up higher to allow a better bend to the hose, of course that required moving the fire extenquisher mount some too.
Working on the gas tank skid plate now...


Prep and paint beadlocks...Done
trim inserts and mount tires...on hold
Remove front fenders...Done
Remove radiator support...Done
Hydro assist...Done
Repair transfer case leak
Remove radiator and mod for clearance of fan motor...Done
Gas tank filler tube...Done
Gas tank fuel shutoff valve...Done
Front axle limit straps
Torque front suspension...Done
Install radiator support/radiator/coolers...Done
Pass head v/c bolt repair/PCV line repair...Done
Add 1-2 leaves to rear springs...Done
Torque rear suspension
Drivetrain venting
Check/secure flexible brake lines...Done
Fuel tank Skid plate fitment...Done
Front fender mods, inner fenderwells
Fan relays...Done
Hood pins
Hood hinges...Done
Paint front fenders/hood/tailgate/bumpers
Paint Tube doors
Tube grille/light mounting/bezels/moldings

Next week going to try to get some RAPC PAINT base and some Matte clear on the fenders/hood.
 
your gonna go for the flat in multiple apps? remember what i told ya.... you may wanna pre-mix the whole batch, uncatalyzed......
 
I bought a gal of Matte clear from Southern Polyurethane Inc.
Talked with the guy, he said I could add more flattening to it if I wanted, but it will provide a Matte finish as is, with their slow activator.
I asked if it was compatible with Dupont/Nason Base coats, he assured me it is.
Should arrive by monday.
 
so wait... your color matching the zinc chromate in nason base?

freakin cool... crazy, but cool.... :haha:
 
yep! Ful Cryl, then the Matte clear, to keep the dulled look of the green zinc primer.
It will probably come out with a little more gloss than the primer has now, but thats fine...I should be able to replicate it when the rest of the body gets shot.
I've had more than a couple people tell me I should leave the frankenbody quarters alone, maybe even add some stitch marks to them.
If anything I would like to replace them, as they are totally sh!t and full of mud.
 
eh, just douche em and run it... when mud falls out, you can just airbrush em as wounds... :popcorn:
 
eh, just douche em and run it... when mud falls out, you can just airbrush em as wounds... :popcorn:
:haha::haha::haha:

Had a line on another K5 body, just need to get it to my place from NM...I've thought the torn metal look is cool when done right...no way I could pull it off though.

helm5.jpg

torn metal.jpg
 
yup... I always liked the torn skin tatoo's with robot guts stuff...

beyond my artistic skillset tho.. I can mask ANYTHING, including flames.. there a few freehand things I can do, including stencil work.... but ask me to draw a horses head? it's gonna look like a weird dog on acid...
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom