79' GMC C15 - Spruce Caboose

[bix]

I've been thinking a lot about doing this with my crew cab. Started out with everything pretty tidy, but it seems like there's always something new that gets wired in. A lot of times the wiring was done in a rush so not as tidy as it could of been. Now I feel like it just needs gutted and rewired.

I hear ya. It seems like everytime I added something, it meant that I would have done the previous step different, but instead it just gets added on.. and like you said, usually pretty rushed, as it's like " let me use my new parts NOW! " Haha.

I don't think I'll be adding much more to my system anytime soon so it was finally the time to do it. Maybe another o2 sensor for the other bank, and maybe I'll use my two extra relay spots for high beams or something, but nothing crazy or soon.

 

[max 02]

I hear ya. It seems like everytime I added something, it meant that I would have done the previous step different, but instead it just gets added on.. and like you said, usually pretty rushed, as it's like " let me use my new parts NOW! " Haha.

I don't think I'll be adding much more to my system anytime soon so it was finally the time to do it. Maybe another o2 sensor for the other bank, and maybe I'll use my two extra relay spots for high beams or something, but nothing crazy or soon.

No kick ass tunes!?

 

[bix]

The tunes will come when air actually flows through the windows haha

I've incorporated them into my plans, but buying 6x9s, those corner speaker mounts, little sub and amp adds up. I'm hoping to get power for the stereo off the fuse panel in the back of the cab. I'm leaning towards a powered under the seat type sub,6-8 inches, low wattage - ish, just for some bumpy bump.

With the current gas prices I should probably start saving up, just to drive this lol

 

[bix]

Got some parts, started to run my wires, and seeing how its all gonna fit together. Decided on using the aluminum box in the bed. Ordered an aluminum battery hold down tray for the box. I also had some random piece of stainless cut off ive been hoarding for a few years and decided to use it as a spacer in the box, so one side is solated from the other. I really want to elimnate any unecessary holes in this box and there is some things i want to mount inside. The divider will also provide me with a mounting surface that wont ruin the box with a bunch of little holes.

Picked up a set of battery teminals thatll let me get everything i connected, without a mess at the terminal. Pretty trick little things with optional side posts that screw in with allen keys.

Ran the starter cable and holley cables down the frame, and up into the bed behind where the box will sit. Using these gasketed wire stabilizers or whatever they call em. Ill use two more going into the aluminum box. I picked up some in 3/8, 1/2 , and 3/4. Ran the power wire for the relay and fuse block, got the fuse block mounted in the box, the box turned out to be just wide enough to accomodate the distribution block, its tight but im happy. The fuse block came with an inline 70 amp fuse also. Seems well built, and im happy with spending the extra little coin. Still a bunch to button up but its getting there.

 

[mrk5]

I've debated about terminal blocks like those. They look pretty handy. I like the pass throughs you're using too.

 

[bix]

Put another day of wiring in. Sure isn't a quick task.. especially when ya forget to put wires in groups and end up chasing your tail quite a bit...
Got the relays wired up for the most part, and routed the power wires into the aluminum box in the bed.

Decided to replace the headlight connectors since I ordered a set of the hella conversion headlamps, and mine were showing some slightly melted/loose sockets. I also couldn't even get the bulbs out of the park lights, so I ordered a pair of those sockets as well. Thought it'd make more sense to run the headlight harness along the bottom of the rad support, and run the fan wires into the same loom to clean up the look of the front clip. Looks alot cleaner along the front without the plastic press in wire clips all across the rad, and the plastic corrugated wire loom. Need to order some more for that section but for now its somewhat organized.

I sorted through all the wires coming out of the OE firewall connection, and got them into groups with the other harness so i could loom them all in designated groups. Put all the main power feeds together.






Once the battery hold down, headlamps, and connectors show up from summit, i can button up the connections on both ends and start testing out the system. I do still need to mount / connect the in cab fuse block, hook up aux 12v "cigarette lighter" plugs, and connect the heated seats.. Run a ground cable to frame , from the battery to under the box, and also run a ground to the motor somewhere close to the starter? Im sure im forgetting other stuff but another chunk done, is a step in the right direction.

 

[bix]

Got some more things crossed off the list.

Wiring all ran to the battery box is done. Tossed a quick coat on the bottom of the box, since there was pipe glue spilt all over it anyway. Got the battery hold down tray in place. Still need to bolt down the box and secure the divider. Also scrubbed the gunk out of the bed.



I decided against the fuse panel at the rear of the cab, I took a look at the back of the stock fuse panel, i realized theres space in there to connect the couple aux power supplies, it also eliminates a power wire off the battery . Theres two empty powered locations for fuses already , and an empty spot or two i can use if i pin them.




Got the battery ground to frame , and engine ground done..Tidied up under the dash, and re ran the loose wires off the ECU. I need to order a glove box insert for a TBI truck. Also got the exhaust tucked up in its final location and tacked in place/



I drilled and tapped the wheels, so i could install the centre caps that i had kept when i sold the rallys. I had these spare coil mounting bolts laying, around and had just enough to be missing one.. im sure ill find one behind something one day. They were a bit long but i just ground down whatever would stick passed. Also got the hella lamps installed. Really happy with the waterproof rubber and the fit around the seal.

 

[mrk5]

Nice, those wheel caps look good.

 

[bix]

Got the trans temp gauge, heated seats and usb charging ports wired into the fuse panel, as well as a 12v source for the trans. I think the 3 wires shoved in one pin , is probably a little greasy, but it's just for 3 small light bulbs on the gauges. Buttoned up the front clip wires for most part, as well.





Tons of room for activities in that fuse block still! Good ol' base models for the win.





Layed out all the door gaskets. Weather is starting to get warmer, so paint won't be too far off I dont think.

 

[bix]

Nice, those wheel caps look good.

Thanks, I think so too. Pretty pumped on having some OEM piece on the aftermarket wheels. They do sell trim rings for them, but they cost almost as much as the wheels haha, so I passed.

 

[bix]

Got the wiring all connected. Tested the grounds, and everything has less resistance than .025-.3 ohms between the main grounds. I think .05 is what i read should be the most? I did mess up and connect the usb plugs and gauge lights into a hot at all times run off in the fuse block. So that will need to be changed, and my blinkers are acting wierd also.

Both front side markers dont light up, most likely burnt bulbs... Tested for 12v at the brown wire leading into both sockets and have proper voltage there so the bulbs must be junk. When the blinker is turned to the left i have no blinker, just a solid rear tail light. So i thought okay maybe the flasher relay is junk too, but i have blinking happening on the right turn signal side of things. I even tested the side marker socket with the right, and left turn signals on, and the right side shows a pulsating voltage from the blue wire, and the left side just a constant 12v. Im confused about this because the right side stuff all branches off the main wiring which runs to the left side first, so for that side to be acting up makes me confuzled. Im sure ill figure it out, just need to scan over my wires, and the wiring diagram. Im just super stoked almost everything is fine on the electrical side, and nothing fugged up yet.

One thing i never really checked much, was if using the th350 dip stick will give me an accurate reading in the oil pan of the 4l60e. Pulled the dipstick yesterday and there seems to be way too much in there, but is that just what would normally be in the transmission cooler lines and cooler since you check with it running? I have to drop the pan to weld in the bung for the temp sensor anyway, figured id measure what comes out vs the recommended fill volume, and compare.

 

[imiceman44]

Got the wiring all connected. Tested the grounds, and everything has less resistance than .025-.3 ohms between the main grounds. I think .05 is what i read should be the most? I did mess up and connect the usb plugs and gauge lights into a hot at all times run off in the fuse block. So that will need to be changed, and my blinkers are acting wierd also.

Both front side markers dont light up, most likely burnt bulbs... Tested for 12v at the brown wire leading into both sockets and have proper voltage there so the bulbs must be junk. When the blinker is turned to the left i have no blinker, just a solid rear tail light. So i thought okay maybe the flasher relay is junk too, but i have blinking happening on the right turn signal side of things. I even tested the side marker socket with the right, and left turn signals on, and the right side shows a pulsating voltage from the blue wire, and the left side just a constant 12v. Im confused about this because the right side stuff all branches off the main wiring which runs to the left side first, so for that side to be acting up makes me confuzled. Im sure ill figure it out, just need to scan over my wires, and the wiring diagram. Im just super stoked almost everything is fine on the electrical side, and nothing fugged up yet.

One thing i never really checked much, was if using the th350 dip stick will give me an accurate reading in the oil pan of the 4l60e. Pulled the dipstick yesterday and there seems to be way too much in there, but is that just what would normally be in the transmission cooler lines and cooler since you check with it running? I have to drop the pan to weld in the bung for the temp sensor anyway, figured id measure what comes out vs the recommended fill volume, and compare.

When engine is off the fluid must be high.
When the engine is idling the pump will be moving the fluid and the level drops

 

[mrk5]

Are you running LED lights?

 

[bix]

Are you running LED lights?

Just stock 194 bulbs. I did order some LED ones in hopes of putting them in the cluster for a brighter light, but the exterior lights are all stock replacements.

When engine is off the fluid must be high.
When the engine is idling the pump will be moving the fluid and the level drops

Yea i was thinking that would probably be the case.

Im getting to the point where this thing has been sitting for long enough that i forget what ive done to it.. I was under the truck the other day and thought "oh crap", when i saw that my fan had an arrow pointing to it being a pusher fan. Went back in my build thread, and saw that i had revered the polarity and turned the fan blade around.... ADHD and the memory of goldfish are not always good things haha.

 

[bix]

There is a 12v wire in the dbw harness that needs to be connected to the brake as a secondary safety, incase one of the sensors fail and you aren't stuck wide open I believe. The issue with this is, it will not let a greater than 10% input from the pedal be recognized and also limits fuel flow to 30lb/hour. So that really leaves little room for shenanigans... My solution to this is to put it on a toggle switch.

Also this thing... Reminded and frustrated me like one of those metal puzzles I'd play with as a kid.





It also seems that TBI glove box inserts are not as cheap as they used to be... Seems like I can't find one for less than 100$+. I didn't modify the dash yet to show the vin, since it doesn't have the cut out for it, as it must be from a later year. Only other spot I have showing the vin is in my glove box, and I decided to try and just modify mine to the same general shape I need. I ordered one of those plastic welders with the shaped staples. We'll see what the future holds but for now I just tossed the cover on.

 

[bix]

Dropped the trans pan to weld the bung in.. now to play the " what is too much metal at the bottom of the pan " game. I'm gonna start reaching out to have a 4l60e mildly built, and see what the costs are these days... This is a mystery trans but if there is that much crap on the bottom of the pan from only a few hours of running... Either it's dinked or i did something to it. Wondering if I should drop it, and check to make sure the torque converter is seated properly on the pump? Other then that not sure what I could check. Probably just run it and see how long it lasts.. while sourcing a 4l60e to be built.




I do have a t5 trans sitting here in a bucket...

 

[bix]

Im still going to go ahead with the welding the pan because It is a deep 4l60e pan, and I can just reuse it on the next 4l60e I find I'd assume.

 

[centexk5]

My th350 looked like that or worse and it’s still kicking. Don’t know for how much longer haha.

 

[bix]

My th350 looked like that or worse and it’s still kicking. Don’t know for how much longer haha.

yea no doubt haha. Sometimes they just keep going, and sometimes they go boom. A good friend of mine had a dying th350 behind a boosted LS, and i couldnt beleive the abuse it took before it died.

 

[Truckman4life]

That looks pretty normal to me.