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79 K5 Prerunner "Lucy"
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Killer Whale, Hydroboostin!
Anyone seen this before?
I figure I'll use a washer to take the space up but I wasn't expecting this?? It's a slf1104 arm..
It's off 1/4 turn like the indexing is wrong?? Am am puzzled it's the arm everyone uses?? Could I be off when i put the sector back in that far? I thought the gears wouldn't mesh? And this is a 3.25 turn box.
Anyone seen this before?
I figure I'll use a washer to take the space up but I wasn't expecting this?? It's a slf1104 arm..
It's off 1/4 turn like the indexing is wrong?? Am am puzzled it's the arm everyone uses?? Could I be off when i put the sector back in that far? I thought the gears wouldn't mesh? And this is a 3.25 turn box.
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Steering box place told me to just grind the Nubs off the Pittman Arm and re index it myself
Removed the master splines last night and indexed the arm how I wanted. Fits perfect now. 
Odd.
Martin
Martin
Yea he said the sector shaft I got might have been from another vehicle with offset splines and that it wasn't a big deal.. I am not going to really worry about it.
Quick update! Tacked mounts together to mock it all up and cycle it again to verify all the measurements
Very nice work, kind of a silly question but what is that bracket for? I think I know what it is...
Frame bracket!
I played more with pvc and got some unexpected results gains a lot of caster at full bump. Like 8 degrees and looses 3 degrees from ride height to droop. I think I made the upper to long so I'll adjust it and check again.
I thought they looked familiar, that setup looks very familiar. 
What kind of coils are you going to use? some type of deaver?
What kind of coils are you going to use? some type of deaver?
Nope coilovers Bilstein 9300 I just have those brackets cause the build started with coils and changed midway.
Decided to move the upper mount point up because that's all I could change, this reduced the caster change a bit and enough to convince me to run it!
Here is full droop
Caster at ride height
Caster at droop.
The numbers are off cause I just want to know the rate of change. I'll set the caster at ride height and droop will be whatever it is. Not gonna worry about it anymore.
Here is the steering and trackbar angles. It will actually be right on because these strings don't show the angles with my Heims which adds 3/4 or so of an inch on both sides of the steering and by my estimation it will be right on
super stoked about that. No bumpsteer!
I also got some parts to add horsepower!!!
Oil pan gaskets. Never had an issue with cork.
These are .016 compressed. This should put my quench exactly where it should be
.046 I'll be happy with that, also depending on the timeline I'll stab a new cam in along with cutting some or a lot of material off the head and the intake.
This should bring my dismal compression up in the 9s. I'll calculate that as I get measurements.
So after fighting this damn link setup I have learned many any things regarding the compromises that come with suspension. First off you cannot have your cake and eat it too without clean sheet chassis and link design. If it fits sometimes you will give up lots of things..
As funny to me I have gone full circle and the driver has been getting a few things that are important to me established and with the current design it's not going to work.. Period I am not happy with the compromises and the complexity it adds to the build. So I will be using my original design modified a bit to accommodate more travel.
I'll be using a long radius arm, not build like this but running two lengths of tubing and joining them at the back to create a truss, the radius pivot will be at or just above my axle centerline at my ride height.
This puts my caster at ride height where I want it and will change a bunch but at this point that's the only way I can have a driveshaft that will survive and allow me the amount of travel 16 inches I want.
I'll probably make some changes to Lower the tracbar at the frame some to get the steering in exactly the same plane at the tracbar .
I also realized something else, with a Chevy you can have a really low ride height without a serious amount of fabrication, the engine crossmember is in the way, the oil pan. If you have high steer the frames I. The way etc.. I also discovered that you cannot have really short links, lots of down travel and have it be strong enough to not tuck under in a high impact situation. The amount of leverage when the arms at that steep is crazy.. So long arms help this especially if you are in search of lots of travel. I might be wrong with a lot of this bit these are my findings thus far.
The only bummer is I couldn't have a super low height so it'll be 3-5 inches lift when it's done..
Regardless it should be on the ground in two weeks.
As funny to me I have gone full circle and the driver has been getting a few things that are important to me established and with the current design it's not going to work.. Period I am not happy with the compromises and the complexity it adds to the build. So I will be using my original design modified a bit to accommodate more travel.
I'll be using a long radius arm, not build like this but running two lengths of tubing and joining them at the back to create a truss, the radius pivot will be at or just above my axle centerline at my ride height.
This puts my caster at ride height where I want it and will change a bunch but at this point that's the only way I can have a driveshaft that will survive and allow me the amount of travel 16 inches I want.
I'll probably make some changes to Lower the tracbar at the frame some to get the steering in exactly the same plane at the tracbar .
I also realized something else, with a Chevy you can have a really low ride height without a serious amount of fabrication, the engine crossmember is in the way, the oil pan. If you have high steer the frames I. The way etc.. I also discovered that you cannot have really short links, lots of down travel and have it be strong enough to not tuck under in a high impact situation. The amount of leverage when the arms at that steep is crazy.. So long arms help this especially if you are in search of lots of travel. I might be wrong with a lot of this bit these are my findings thus far.
The only bummer is I couldn't have a super low height so it'll be 3-5 inches lift when it's done..
Regardless it should be on the ground in two weeks.
The height is really not as big of deal as some think. It's just different shock tuning and you might need a swaybar.
I just picked up a set of coil springs that should work for the jimmy. Probably gonna be next year before I start but it's gonna be similar to your radius arms. So get to it!!
I just picked up a set of coil springs that should work for the jimmy. Probably gonna be next year before I start but it's gonna be similar to your radius arms. So get to it!!
I don't think you will be dissapointed with the radius arms, and they keep your front pinion angle perfect too with a CV shaft if you rotate the inner C's.
I just saw this thread and I was going to say you are going to get a lot of binding running parallel 4 links with heims everywhere, but it seems you changed the plan, so carry on. Just make sure you use bushings in at least one place on each side at the axle end.
Looks like you have a lot of work into it already. Keep it up.
I just saw this thread and I was going to say you are going to get a lot of binding running parallel 4 links with heims everywhere, but it seems you changed the plan, so carry on. Just make sure you use bushings in at least one place on each side at the axle end.
Looks like you have a lot of work into it already. Keep it up.
Thanks Health, I have a poly bushing for the lower mount on the axle, the rest is heimed, if that's not enough I can add another later, I went with the 3 inch wide bushings with the thought the bigger the better in this regard.
Finally put some metal links together!!!
This is mock up still and will get the truck on the trailer so I'm sure some changes will be made.
Good clearance at bump.
Hopefully I can get the lower built and bent before the next weekend. My goal is to have this on its tires Sunday next weekend.
How are you going to terminate the lower into the upper, just long cope? What do you think about using the same design as my traction bar and make the lower go to your existing heim and then put a pair of tabs on top just before your main drop bracket and put another heim there?
Something like this but no plate gusset in between so you could still adjust both heims for the upper.
You could even box the tabs together like I did for ultimate strength. Since your upper would not be permanently tied to the lower (unlike mine) it would be a really good idea
Something like this but no plate gusset in between so you could still adjust both heims for the upper.
You could even box the tabs together like I did for ultimate strength. Since your upper would not be permanently tied to the lower (unlike mine) it would be a really good idea
