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80 Jimmy - The Monkey Paw (Time to finish interior)

Idea with this was to build it robust, and simple, and utilitarian. KISS principal.

JoshHefnerX

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Started on the B pillar that someone had pushed in some steel wool and bondo’d over..


Cut out the steel in there and replaced w/ 16ga. Came out ok. There were some factory spot welds, so decided to try rosette welds there, and made the holes I drilled in the outer panel a bit large. May go back in and fill them in a bit better, but it’s strong.


 
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JoshHefnerX

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By this time I’d collected a D60 and a AAM 10.5 and an engo 12k. Decided that I was going to need space in my garage to work on those, so I thought I’d build a front bumper and then could at least get the winch out of the garage.

Started w/ cardboard mock up for the center section.


Used ¼” plate for the center section, and some 1” plate for the D-ring mounts. Extensions are made of 4x8” 3/16” wall square tube.







After torching that 1” plate into some rough shapes I decided that grinding them flat and square was going to suck donkey balls. Found a local machine shop that did small jobs and got them finished. I consider it money well spent.


I still have many feet of that square tube as I had to order 20’ of it. Wasn’t something they normally stocked and had no cutoffs. But that’s ok as I still have enough for the rear bumper now.
 
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JoshHefnerX

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After completing the front bumper I decided to get going on the front axle. Also, swapped to 2wd box and crossover.

Went to local yard for the 2wd box and when I got home and cleaned it up, found that it’d been remfg already and was very slop free. Score!
Kinda nasty in the hubs
Didn't take a lot of pics of the d60's There's plenty of them out there to view. I did clean them up and paint.

new shoes
old vs new


Although the D60 was a bolt in swap, the AAM was not. The reason I went w/ the newer axle was 2 fold.

  1. Those drums are expensive and heavy as hell.

  2. Disk swap kits didn’t have what I considered an acceptable parking brake assy.

And the new ones did away with both.


Had to cut off the perches and shock tabs. Those spring perches were not ever meant to come off. That was many hours w/ the cutoff wheel and grinding wheel and flapdisk later it relented.
Those were some thickass perches there...
But eventually they succumbed. you can see all of the grinding mess on the floor there...
I ended up having to take the shock tabs off later and put some different ones on.

Used ord’s 14bolt shackle reversal and perches for mounts. Although I did have to specify that this was a 3.5” tube diameter compared to the normal 3.25”.

After a day of swapping the rear - that's about what she looks like now.
 
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JoshHefnerX

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I’d read many threads on the disk brake conversions out there and the monkeying w/ prop valves and mc’s boosters ect.


What I ended up finding was that the D60 brakes (JB8) Bendix type were only 4% smaller than the fronts of the 2004 2500 that would have come w/ the rear end. So I decided I was going to use the MC from the 2004, but that it may be a challenge. I was also going to gut the factory combo valve as shown in the Atron writeup.

Well the combo valve didn’t come off as well as I’d hoped. The line for the rear would absolutely not come off. Ended up having to cut the hardline. Once I got the valve out I took it to the bench. Put a pipe wrench on it and the back of the combo valve spun out, but the fitting still would not. So I put some heat to it, and eventually it relented.

By the time I got it open and started examining everything. 40 years had taken it’s toll on that valve. It was cruddy’d up and pretty nasty. It would have been a giant PITA to salvage that thing. I started looking at the replacement parts and found that a few places made solid brass replacements that were basically already gutted, and some other ones that had a prop valve built into them.

Decided that I didn’t want to either cut and reflare all 5 lines to use one of the ones w/ adjustable prop valve in them and went with one of the solid brass gutted replacements.

Took a try or 2 to get the line reflared where I had to cut it but eventually it relented and got a leak free connection.

Now putting the MC in was a challenge. I learned a few things and will put them here for future reference.

In ’81 the hole in the booster for the MC snout changed to a larger diameter. I’d heard of people using some much later ones but having to swap the mounting bracket on the booster and having problems w/ the push rod to the brake going metric

So I decided to just try an 81 booster. And… It was a direct fit. All the threads, the mount everything was EXACTLY the same except that the mounting hole was now the ‘new’ larger bore.
80 vs 81
old 80 mc 1.1" bore vs 1.4" bore


The new MC would physically bolt right up to that booster and that booster would bolt right into my truck. With one exception.

The resovoir on the new mc was a full on quart and was HUGE! So, I decided to space down the booster at the firewall using some washers. It was a bunch of washers to get it down far enough and it still grazes the fire blanket under the hood but it does fit.


I also had to remove a piece of bracket on the A/C compressor – looked like it was for a different application, and it was extremely tight. After removal there’s plenty of space.

There is one gotcha when putting in that master cylinder. You have to convert the rear line thread from 9/16-18 to 1/2-20. I tried a conversion fitting I found locally (the only one) and the fitting didn't seal. The cone inside wasn't proud enough to contact the flare. But I did find one from Wilwood, which was the only other one I found. If you don't like the adapters you can reflare the line, but the fittings for that is even rarer. The combo of the 1/2-20 thread w/ the 1/4" line side is rare.


Allstar Performance Inverted Flare Nuts ALL50118
Wilwood Brake Line Fittings 220-8575



Which leaves me to the present day. Got everything together and went for shake down run…

Shake was the operative word. I’m going to ask a mod to see if they can merge that thread onto this one as I think it will be more appropriate at this point. (was merged, but put in the front of this)

Things left to do on this build.


Replace carpet

Replace seats

Clean up under dash wiring

Build rear bumper

Build new steps/rock sliders (yes I’m short fat and old. I need the step portion)

Build a combo trans/tcase mount / belly skid.
 
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Babaganoosh

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lol, Ben chased that for a while too if I remember.
I had a bad input seal on the transfer case, when I swapped trans I replaced it and had no problems for the 24 hours I drove it. :haha:

Honestly, I like longer wheelbase trucks - subs or longbed pu but this was a deal I couldn't refuse... Almost literally. Wife's uncle came by, knew I missed my old 77 and gave it to me. Had to get rid of it.

Nothing wrong with that at all.
 

JoshHefnerX

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Took the driveshaft off tonight to take it down to the shop tomorrow, and realized I didn't document the parking brake setup. Was pretty slick.

The cables that came on the aam were both directed to the driver side, but my 80 is split to both sides. So I expected to have to shorten both cables, but was concerned about how to make the connetion to the truck.

The factory cables are pretty slick, Steel wrapped w/ a plastic coating over that. I ruined a couple of pairs of cutters before I realized I would have to use a cutoff wheel.

The factory ends of the aam cables are some kind of brown resin. The slick part is that the reverse thread onto the plastic sheathing, so no matter how long or short you need it you can reuse that factory end. They more or less fit into the trucks stop brackets.


I actually found some ferrules at the local Home Despot.

Now I did have a failure there. I tried using their bolt cutter type of crimper and it didn't crimp enough to get grab on the cable. There were several pairs there and it looked like they'd all been used and returned several times so it's possible they were worn.... But I had a simple solution. I used my Horrible Freight hydraulic wire crimper. Comes w/ interchangeable heads on it. So 6ga heads and used that to crimp the shit out of them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

It seems to be working as my truck hasn't ended up in my neighbors yard yet... LOL
 
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Bent77

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Took the driveshaft off tonight to take it down to the shop tomorrow, and realized I didn't document the parking brake setup. Was pretty slick.

The cables that came on the aam were both directed to the driver side, but my 80 is split to both sides. So I expected to have to shorten both cables, but was concerned about how to make the connetion to the truck.

The factory cables are pretty slick, Steel wrapped w/ a plastic coating over that. I ruined a couple of pairs of cutters before I realized I would have to use a cutoff wheel.

The factory ends of the aam cables are some kind of brown resin. The slick part is that the reverse thread onto the plastic sheathing, so no matter how long or short you need it you can reuse that factory end. They more or less fit into the trucks stop brackets.

20160307_184156_zpsidjxkit3.jpg

20160307_184139_zpsfyztuhgj.jpg

20160307_184057_zpskpfwnsti.jpg


I actually found some ferrules at the local Home Despot.
20160307_184239_zpsbbe5dotp.jpg


Now I did have a failure there. I tried using their bolt cutter type of crimper and it didn't crimp enough to get grab on the cable. There were several pairs there and it looked like they'd all been used and returned several times so it's possible they were worn.... But I had a simple solution. I used my Horrible Freight hydraulic wire crimper. Comes w/ interchangeable heads on it. So 6ga heads and used that to crimp the shit out of them.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html

It seems to be working as my truck hasn't ended up in my neighbors yard yet... LOL
Are you a hostile tool chucker?
 

Bent77

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Must be missing a joke.
Just figured if you were mad at it, you chuck it over the fence . Hence the hostile tool chucker



Anything look funny when you pulled the driveline?
 

JoshHefnerX

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No, I had several sets of eyes and ears look it over this weekend. Cant figure out what it's doing. T-case is making a noise/vibration that's pretty severe at anything above a walking pace. Details are back in post 1. Doesn't do it w/ driveshaft out. So taking driveshaft to get it checked out, and if that doesn't show anything I get to drop the tcase again.
 

Bent77

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Yes also hoping it's the driveshaft.

On the GoPro concept of recording it, that's how I caught the issues under mine. 3 minutes worth of tape showed things I couldn't catch any other way
 

Bent77

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Related side note; I have replaced the output bearing on a 205 for this issue. When you went SYE, did you change the bearing?
 

JoshHefnerX

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No, it felt good, and I believe the uncle replaced that when he'd rebuilt it. I'd have to ask him for sure what he replaced inside as I know he mentioned some bearings were replaced when he did the twin-stick. This did not make noise before all of the work on the truck.

Basically over the last year the truck has been mostly parked and parts swapped. It's only just now getting to where I'd be able to drive it.

If the driveshaft comes back w/ a clean bill of health, that's something I was going to be looking at very closely.

If the shaft isn't vibrating stuff in the 205, it would have to be something w/ the helical cut on the gears shifting the output shaft... there is very minimal play in it, up/down - in/out. Just barely enough to feel it when manipulating the output shaft
 

JoshHefnerX

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So I pulled the driveshaft off and had a local company check it over. It was quite out of balance. had to go -.05oz on one end and +1.5oz on the other. This improved things quite a bit. But didn't fix it. Vibrations are markedly improved maybe 1/2 of what they were. They still work their way up in intensity till about 10mph and then it smooth's out, whereas I couldn't keep it at 10 as my vision would blur from the shaking. So anything above 15mph isn't bad at all and rides as nice as anything else I have.

The noise improved quite a bit but is still there w/ the vibrations. But at this point I'm pretty sure the noise I'm hearing is coming out of the t-case. So I think I'm going to pull that down again and start pulling it apart. It was rebuilt by the uncle maybe 1k before I got it, but maybe I jacked something up putting in the sye... the snaprings were a major pain in the ass, but I'm pretty sure I got all of the roller/needle bearings back where they belonged. At the time it was rebuilt all of the internal bearings were replaced. Also, the noise seems to worsen when letting off the gas.

Now I will say I don't really like the detent on the front shaft. It's not as positive as I'd like, so I'm going to check that out while I'm in there.

Anyone have any recommendations for a rebuilder for the 205 in the phx area incase I get into this and done see the problem?
 

JoshHefnerX

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The more I think about it, I'm not sure which is causing which or if they're even related. Is there anything in the transfer case that has enough rotational speed and mass that it could cause a vibration, or is whatever is causing the vibrations causing the noise...

If the tranfercase was the problem would the noise and vibration go away at higher speed?
 

Bent77

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The more I think about it, I'm not sure which is causing which or if they're even related. Is there anything in the transfer case that has enough rotational speed and mass that it could cause a vibration, or is whatever is causing the vibrations causing the noise...

If the tranfercase was the problem would the noise and vibration go away at higher speed?
Typically no. Only exception might be if enough of a load is present at higher speed to push something back toward the position where it's happy.

I have seen things like that in gear train before, but not real common
 

sreidmx

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Very nice rig! I have a question is th aam axle from a dodge? I might have missed that part?
 
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