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80 Jimmy - The Monkey Paw (Time to finish interior)

Idea with this was to build it robust, and simple, and utilitarian. KISS principal.
Very nice rig! I have a question is th aam axle from a dodge? I might have missed that part?
Thanks! Axle is from a 2004 Silverado 2500. Basically a 14b that's been updated w/ factory disk brakes. On e thing that got me that on this swap was the yoke from the driveshaft was a 1410, I realized there were no 1310/1410 hybrid joints out there so I was going to need to swap at least 1 yoke. That's when I decided to do the sye, and get the driveshaft I wanted. Might as well.... Seems to happen a lot on this forum.. lol

Is it vibrating on acceleration or does it do it coasting at 10mph?
The noise and from the t-case and vibration is louder when I coast, although it is still present under acceleration. I did try holding the brake while going that speed to load the driveline up and if I will still going at the 5-10mph it still shook but seemed lessened.
 
I'm really not feeling dropping the t-case again, at least not right now. So I went ahead and bought a front driveshaft from a local place since I need one anyhow and will drive it front-wheel drive and see what changes if anything. Help narrow down what it's doing.
 
Had a chance to video the driveline or suspension?
When I videoed mine, you could actually see a whole bunch of stuff not doing what it should
 
Well... I decided to go ahead and get a front shaft, and try driving it front-wheel drive w/o the rear driveshaft. Figuring it would help narrow down the problems, and I need one anyhow.

So, this morning I decided to tackle the wobbly tilt-steering column. And many bb's came out of the truck and down the driveway... Nobody local has one that I can find so I get to order those now. Seems like the only source for them is that crown set that fits the jeeps...

Did order some new carpet though, AAC from Rockauto. Essex w/ mass backing. Samples were decent of that combo. W/O mass backing or their plain cut-pile the carpet was less impressive. If I could quit spending money on broken shit, I could order up some PRP's.

In holding pattern for a couple of days now.
 
Crown bearings work great did my tilt column earlier this year. I used a fireo guide on tilt as it is same basically and wasn't to bad getting pins out of sides is little fun and then getting tilt part back on is little tricky but I could do another one. I will see if i can find write up I used and send it to you if you like seems like best out there from what I saw.
 
I got it torn down to the infamous 4 screws. I'm ordering the bearings so hopefully they'll be here tues, and I can get my column back together. Front shaft should be done Monday. Then back to trying to find the shaking.
 
For those of you that have done the bearing swap, how hard is it driving the old outer races out of the column chunk, or did you just reuse the old outer races?
 
Finally got the bearings in and put the column back together.. like 3D Tetris...

Got the rear shaft out and the front shaft in. Drove around the block Front-wheel drive. Didn't go fast, but fast enough that if there were vibrations it should have been present and they were gone. So I've eliminated 'the truck' (tires, wheels ect.)

That only leaves the shaft, pinion or sye. Going to call Tom Woods tomorrow and see what they suggest. I'm pretty sure the sye should be good too as I drove it on jack stands w/o the shaft and there was no noise or vibrations at all, at various speeds. So I'm strongly leaning towards the pinion or shaft. Esp, w/ the balance on the shaft being suspect.
 
Talked to Tom Woods shafts again. Basically I can't run the shaft - working angles too much. 22+deg. So I need to go to double cardan. Which means sending my shaft back for refit. And cutting perches and moving pinion up 18 or so deg, and changing my new yoke for a flange style to fit the 'cv'... :(
 
they couldn't tell you that to start with...?:dunno:
 
You would have thought so, but it never came up. I did waste a ton of time and money tracking this down...:(

75$ last night to have fedex package and ship it back for refitting..
 
Pulled the rear axle out, went to cut off the perches and shock tabs, no gas. Went to welding store got gas, cut off perches/tabs, ground flat. Bout that time ord's new perches showed up. But the axle under the truck and set the pinion angle, tacked it and the new shock tabs back up. Dropped it out to fully weld, and paint. Back under truck and on it's wheels . Still need to hookup brakes and bleed again.

Long day, I'm beat.

Hopefully, I don't have any other problems like this.
 
Got it figured out. Got the new shaft back from Tom Woods and that seemed to do the trick. No more vibrations, runs smooth up to at least 50 or so, didn't take it any faster. Woohoo! :smile1:

Finally got to test out the brakes. They work well, will lock up the 37's no problem. Do need to try rebleeding as it does have a bit of pull to the passenger side right before/as it's locking up.

Had to add almost 2 quarts of oil to the rear end after tipping it up like I did, but I'm happy. 4.10's made a big improvement in scoot over the old gears, may have been 3.08, I think. :burnout:

So it's time to move onto bigger and better things!

Got new AAC carpet in the front room and got some PRP's on order as well as a new rear window regulator. Also, getting some steel to get the rear bumper together.


 
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Went to take the Jimmy to the uncles house got 1/2 mile down the road and I realized I forgot to torque everything in the back down from last weekend. Turned around and I'm lucky if all the rear lugnuts and ubolts were 40ft/lbs... DOH! :doah:

Think I may adopt a policy like the old Detroit factory days and mark the bolts when they've been torqued on important items...

Josh
 
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