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80 Jimmy - The Monkey Paw (Time to finish interior)
- Thread starter JoshHefnerX
- Start date
Idea with this was to build it robust, and simple, and utilitarian. KISS principal.
Ordered a regulator for the tailgate from lmc. Looked ok, was a little irritated as I called them to ask if the rollers were separate on new regulators or not. Lady on the phone said they were, so I ordered new rollers. Guess I have spares now... And what wasn't real clear was that the gearbox was not included, no big deal but was a surprise.
Ordered a new regulator because the old one would roll down quickly and up very slowly. Tried to re-tension the clock spring but it started binding, and it really didn't have any counter balancing to it. The new regulator is now equally slow in both directions. I greased the crap out of it as best I could, but it was still kinda tight before going in. Going to hook the drill up tomorrow and wind it up and down a few times and see if it loosens up or not. I bought a new motor from the parts store last year when I started working on this truck but it's only been up and down maybe a dozen times since then, so it could be that the motor is crap also... But I'll know more tomorrow.
Ordered a new regulator because the old one would roll down quickly and up very slowly. Tried to re-tension the clock spring but it started binding, and it really didn't have any counter balancing to it. The new regulator is now equally slow in both directions. I greased the crap out of it as best I could, but it was still kinda tight before going in. Going to hook the drill up tomorrow and wind it up and down a few times and see if it loosens up or not. I bought a new motor from the parts store last year when I started working on this truck but it's only been up and down maybe a dozen times since then, so it could be that the motor is crap also... But I'll know more tomorrow.
Been a while since I posted in here. Last time I was looking at the tailgate. Did some playing and found that my drill runs the window up and down w/ ease. But the motor not so much.
Couple of observations:
1. The dash switch worked better than the key switch - so I know there was some resistance in there someplace.
2. After moving the window up and down several times continuously the motor was not even the slightest bit warm so,
3. Checked the ground and found that there was a 12ohm drop across to the tailgate so the grounding isn't awesome - going to go over all the wires as I do the rest of the truck and the rear bumper as that's when I'll have Access.
So moving on I started stripping out the interior as I have new stuff to put in. ACC carpets and some PRP goodness!
Started in the back - got it stripped out, thought it looked pretty good...
Until I stripped the front out...
Whoever said AZ trucks don't have rust might be wrong this would be the 3rd decent rust repair on the truck. Not as bad as the Midwest -missing fenders and such or flintstone mobiles but not as good as my other projects.. So I need to now wire wheel down everything up front and see what the actual condition of the metal is up there. If a couple of patch panels will work or if I need some floor pans, but there's definitely some daylight down there.
Couple of observations:
1. The dash switch worked better than the key switch - so I know there was some resistance in there someplace.
2. After moving the window up and down several times continuously the motor was not even the slightest bit warm so,
3. Checked the ground and found that there was a 12ohm drop across to the tailgate so the grounding isn't awesome - going to go over all the wires as I do the rest of the truck and the rear bumper as that's when I'll have Access.
So moving on I started stripping out the interior as I have new stuff to put in. ACC carpets and some PRP goodness!
Started in the back - got it stripped out, thought it looked pretty good...
Until I stripped the front out...
Whoever said AZ trucks don't have rust might be wrong this would be the 3rd decent rust repair on the truck. Not as bad as the Midwest -missing fenders and such or flintstone mobiles but not as good as my other projects.. So I need to now wire wheel down everything up front and see what the actual condition of the metal is up there. If a couple of patch panels will work or if I need some floor pans, but there's definitely some daylight down there.
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I like it!
The truck, not the rust. ..
The truck, not the rust. ..
Got in there tonight to get a better idea of how much rust is actually in there.. It's not as good as I was hoping. Couple of pretty good holes. Should be able to patch them.
There is one spot where I'm not sure how to get in there. The driver side kick panel - where it meets the floorboard. Really tight spot in the corner - actually goes underneath the kick panel. Any ideas on how to cut that out?
There is one spot where I'm not sure how to get in there. The driver side kick panel - where it meets the floorboard. Really tight spot in the corner - actually goes underneath the kick panel. Any ideas on how to cut that out?
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Torch?Got in there tonight to get a better idea of how much rust is actually in there.. It's not as good as I was hoping. Couple of pretty good holes. Should be able to patch them.
There is one spot where I'm not sure how to get in there. The driver side kick panel - where it meets the floorboard. Really tight spot in the corner - actually goes underneath the kick panel. Any ideas on how to cut that out?
I'll ruminate on that for a bit. Not sure how much I trust my torch skills, but that may be that I have to do. Barely got the grinder's wire wheel in there to find those holes.
I am hoping that the torch suggestion is just BS!!
That much heat would probably warp crap and IF there was any sealer around, it would get cooked out next to the cut.
Of course a plasma cutter would keep the heat low as to reduce damage.
A body saw may be a good option, depending on the reach with the blade when you get into the corner.
Maybe a carbide bit in a drill? I have done that for some things to slow the cutting down. Maybe it would be ok for sheet metal. Dunno. ..
That much heat would probably warp crap and IF there was any sealer around, it would get cooked out next to the cut.
Of course a plasma cutter would keep the heat low as to reduce damage.
A body saw may be a good option, depending on the reach with the blade when you get into the corner.
Maybe a carbide bit in a drill? I have done that for some things to slow the cutting down. Maybe it would be ok for sheet metal. Dunno. ..
Hmm, don't have a plasma.... I keep thinking I'd buy it and not need to use it again...
I did however just buy several carbide burrs that are pretty decent. May try that.
I did however just buy several carbide burrs that are pretty decent. May try that.
That's what I meant by body saw. I have used mine a fair amount, but I can't tell you how well it will reach into the corner.
But I have found other ways to use it too.
Bigger torchIf you have a die grinder, a carbide tip on an extended shaft might reach in there
Anyone know what these are - some kind of relay for the rear power window? Didn't remember seeing them in the wiring diagram I found Driver side frame rail. It is fairly heavy gauge wire maybe 10-12ga. One wire had been chafed and shorting on a hold down clamp, another got hot and was melting to the frame...
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Where do the wires run?
Wasn't able to follow them completely, they start somewhere up on the firewall run down the driver frame to those boxes, and head to the back of the truck. Ran out of time but it's the only thing back there besides the taillights...? No electric fuel pump. Just don't remember there being any relays or anything in the diagrams.
Maybe some kind of resettable breaker.
Maybe some kind of resettable breaker.
Those are not factory.
Martin
Martin
The plot thickens.. My last jimmy had a crank handle- wasn't sure about this.
probably part of a train horn setup from the PO 
