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'81 K5, "BlaZeus"- How to NOT build the ultimate budget K5; 3 & 4 link build

It will work but being a manual bender being so close is gonna suck. Especially with complex bends on different planes. You think you will have enough room until the other side of the bar is in the wall. The best spot for my bender was literally in the middle of the shop. I sleeve anchored it and put button heads on it so it when it was removed it was not Much of a nuisance.
 
It will work but being a manual bender being so close is gonna suck. Especially with complex bends on different planes. You think you will have enough room until the other side of the bar is in the wall. The best spot for my bender was literally in the middle of the shop. I sleeve anchored it and put button heads on it so it when it was removed it was not Much of a nuisance.


one of the best things I did when I put my anchors in the middle of the floor was to make a larger than the bottom fishplate that the bender bolts to.... I ran 8 studs in it, so you could clock the bender in 1/8 increments if needed as opposed to 90 degree.. when not bending, I just unbolt the whole thing and store it... just leave the 4 anchor holes in the floor...



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and yeah, first B-hoop and he'll be hating that...
 
I had my bender mounted in 3 different places before I finally broke down and bought a swag air over hydraulic setup. Best $200ish I've spent on tools.
 
I had my bender mounted in 3 different places before I finally broke down and bought a swag air over hydraulic setup. Best $200ish I've spent on tools.
Is it hard to retro fit a manual bender to a hydraulic setup?
 
You are probably going to regret mounting that bender so close to the wall......

BTDT.


-G

I was going to say...

Ive never had a bender but i could imagine its well worth it times a million to get it rigged up hydraulic on a rolling stand so you can put it where ever.

I'm sure it will be fine. I made sure my breaker bar clears the wall and then some. It was mounted as close to the wall if not closer at my previous place and I never had any problems bending any of the tubing for my cage. If it does some how end up being in the way, easy to drill a couple more holes, set anchor bolts and move the bender. No sweat. :dunno:
 
Is it hard to retro fit a manual bender to a hydraulic setup?
It's way easy with the swag setup that @skunked linked. You just have to weld some legs on your pedestal to keep it upright. Doesn't have to be on casters if you don't want it to be. It'll slide on a concrete floor without them.
 
I'm sure it will be fine. I made sure my breaker bar clears the wall and then some. It was mounted as close to the wall if not closer at my previous place and I never had any problems bending any of the tubing for my cage. If it does some how end up being in the way, easy to drill a couple more holes, set anchor bolts and move the bender. No sweat. :dunno:


it's not the leverage bar, it's loading 20' sticks into it and having enough room to bend in multiple directions..
 
So parents just asked me what I want for my birthday, i was gonna tell them nothing.....but I remembered that I could do with a tube notcher right about now....any solid recommendations for a notcher that isn't a POS HF $60? would need one that notches horizontally as i need to attach it to my drill cuz i don't have a drill press.
 
Man what a pain, the plasma made it easier but still took a while. Last night finally got to cutting out engine cage. Removed dash, such a pain. But will allow me to redo the wiring and make it neat and organized. Will also make sure the new cage terminates at the windshield uprights and not be dead tubes.

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Engine cage out. Cleaned up passenger side frame rail. But now it's time for the fun stuff...after of course more cutting and grinding....:hack::grind::o

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Cut out the rest of the engine cage and cleaned up the frame rails. Got started on the new engine cage. Lots more work to do. But ordered the woodward fab tube notcher so probly gonna wait for that to come in before I really start crankin on it.

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Last night worked on getting the holes cut out in the firewall for the tube to pass through and connect to the body cage. Again, so thankful to have a plasma! No more hacked up firewall! Stuck tubes through to check alignment...all looks good! Ended up removing the last piece of OEM in my engine compartment...the wiper motor. I didn't want to remove it but the connection broke off and it was right in the way of where I wanted my tube to run. The left over hole offered a nice place for the tube to run though

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Cut side engine cage tubes and mocked for fitment. Cut out one windshield tube and redoing it to make sure engine cage tubes terminate at a joint and not be a dead node like they were before.

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Just in case you missed it, what is going to hold the steering box in place? I'm having hard time visualizing what sort of framing you're going to have in front now that the frame is gone. :dunno:
 

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