'84 K10 The Animal- Now on Forty Two's

[skunked]

Yanked the np203 with the assistance of a HF transmission jack

NP205 Ready to go in

Then I ran into a couple problems....the first being that I gave away my transmission with the transmission to t-case adapter with the transmission second problem was the crossmember mounts don't line up with the 205 adapter (see below)

It looks like this second cross member will work in place of the one that's in there.

Ordered a new coupler from ORD this morning and some yukon locking hubs. The driveshaft is being extended at Sacramento Driveline, that should be done on Monday. I get back in town Sunday night with 4 days left to swap the axle and get the 205 in.

 

[y5mgisi]

Good progress even with the set backs!

 

[454Sub]

Probably to late now, but twin sticking that 205 will be a blessing with a front locker. After I lock my hubs in, I become to lazy to get out and mess with them, so being able to neutral either output to assist in turning has been very nice.

 

[skunked]

Good progress even with the set backs!

Thanks!

Probably to late now, but twin sticking that 205 will be a blessing with a front locker. After I lock my hubs in, I become to lazy to get out and mess with them, so being able to neutral either output to assist in turning has been very nice.

It's on the list along with hydro assist for this winter.

 

[454Sub]

I only mentioned it because the case is still out of the truck, and its such a simple mod to do and only takes a few minutes. Buying or making the shifters sucks, but having the abilities it gives you is a lifesaver on something like mine, with the turning radius of the USS Missouri.

 

[andyblack]

Good choice on the Horrible Freight trans jack. That ratchet strap is a life saver. I use mine for transmissions too. Works great.

There were at least two different styles of factory trans crossmembers. I see you have the flat one. Maybe the other curved style would work for you.

 

[skunked]

I only mentioned it because the case is still out of the truck, and its such a simple mod to do and only takes a few minutes. Buying or making the shifters sucks, but having the abilities it gives you is a lifesaver on something like mine, with the turning radius of the USS Missouri.

If I had more time before this camping trip I'd be all over it.

Good choice on the Horrible Freight trans jack. That ratchet strap is a life saver. I use mine for transmissions too. Works great.

There were at least two different styles of factory trans crossmembers. I see you have the flat one. Maybe the other curved style would work for you.

The jack definitely saved my ass. I may need another crossmember because the one that's in the truck now may not bolt into the rear position. We have a couple junkyards near us with plenty square bodies to pick off if needed.

I spoke with Sacramento Driveline and they recommended that I point my rear pinion up a couple degrees because as it sits now the t-case flange and pinion are sitting parallel (I have a cv joint at the t-case). I used 6 degree shims to move the pinion angle down when I installed the 14bolt so I may need to replace those with some 4 degree.

I'm anxious to get back home so I can finish this up.

 

[Chevy305]

Sub'd for another white K10

 

[skunked]

Sub'd for another white K10

I've been researching what my rear pinion angle should be since I'm going from a conventional two joint drive shaft to a CV setup at the t-case.

From Tom Woods site I need to shoot for something like this

Currently the six degree shims I have in there are rotating the diff down and I'm hoping by eliminating those I'm back where I need to be with the diff pointing at the t-case.

 

[andyblack]

Hmm. That's interesting. I wonder why the pinion needs to be pointed straight at the t-case out put like that. I thought that was a no-no with a non-CV driveshaft. What makes this setup different?

 

[skunked]

Hmm. That's interesting. I wonder why the pinion needs to be pointed straight at the t-case out put like that. I thought that was a no-no with a non-CV driveshaft. What makes this setup different?

with a conventional two joint setup the two joints cancel each other out therefore you want to run them parallel like this.

The real benefit to a C. V. (double cardan) drive shaft is smoother operation at higher operating angles and longer life. The C.V. assembly works by intersecting the joint angles at the center pivot point and delivering a smooth rotational power flow or surface velocity through the drive line. Therefore, with this type of driveline it is important to roll the differential upward so that you have minimal joint operating angle at the differential end. As any substantial joint angle would cause the pinion to try to speed up & slow down two times per revolution. Causing what is known as a torsional vibration. (Torsional vibrations will also be created in a 2 joint driveline that has unequal angles at each of the "U" joints). Rolling the differential upward will lessen the total operating angle at each end of the driveshaft. Now at the transfer case end of the driveshaft you have two joints equally dividing the total angle . This will double the life of the joints at this end, additionally you will be back up to full rated life for the joint at the differential end. I also believe a C.V. is stronger than a conventional driveline when turning through the same angle. This would be the result of transmitting the torque in a plane more perpendicular to centerline of the driveshaft.

 

[andyblack]

Good to know. Thanks.

 

[skunked]

Yesterday the ORD coupler came in so I installed the C-Clip, slid that onto the tail shaft od the th350 bolted up the np205. Then supported the transmission/t-case and installed the rear cross member in the forward position, it bolted up to the np205 adapter properly I need to find another cross member for the rear location since the NP203 cross member won't work.

Before I left for a week long business trip I found out that the "guts" to the lock out hubs are Warn and the outer covers are OEM, the two won't work together. Here is the discussion on that subject http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317144

So I ordered a pair of Yukon's to "solve" the problem and move on.....right? Pulled the Warn guts out of the DS, installed all of the new Yukon parts as instructed and then found out that I'm missing all the fuggin bolts. Fine, pickup some temporary bolts tomorrow (10-24 x 3/4") but in the meantime I'll get as far as I can and install all that I can on the passenger side. I pulled the C-clip and found that the hub on that side had broke and the end of the shaft spline (outside the c-clip) is fubbard. So I couldn't slide the guts off the shaft......Looked at the clock it was past midnight and I was too frustrated to continue so I cracked a beer and called it a night. I'm pretty sure I can clean the threads up with a small file and some patience.

My drive shaft is ready so I'm hoping to sort out the rear pinion angle tonight.

 

[skunked]

been working my ass off so I'm ready tomorrow morning

I hit the yard and found another cross member for the rear location along with the fancy skid plate that runs between the two cross members. Picked up the new rear drive shaft and got that installed as well.

after messing with the passenger hub I was finally able to pull the warn lock out from the short shaft using a universal puller. Thankfully those little allen bolts were up to the task. Installed the Yukon hub so the axle was all buttoned up.

Installed the Dana 60, new front leaf springs with 4 degree shims and removed the EZ Inch blocks. My castor is around 8 degree's, I'm going to leave it there for now and see how the truck settles and drives.

Everything on this truck from the frame to the drivetrain has been from the 73-79 K10 with exception of the engine however even that is a 79 (probably a K30). So when I ordered the 2wd steering box I bought one with a flare setup. Tore into last night to find O-ring lines
I was able to find a new high pressure line local but the low pressure line is not available. I'm going to hit the yard and get both lines and the damn pump as a backup. Also installed the ORD brace.

With the 60 installed and moved several inches forward my front driveshaft is too long, by about 2" or so. The guy I bought it from was running a atlas in a K5. So I drove out to Sacramento Driveline and they're doing a same day service for me, those guys rock.

The short list of stuff to get done today is:
Install PS lines/add fluid
bleed the brakes
install new battery and cables
add diff oil/breather line
re-torque U-bolts after a drive around the block
Install front driveshaft
top off coolant, check e-fan operation


A few pics I snapped late last night

These Yukons are quality, I see why everyone loves them and I haven't even used them yet.

and the stance

Needless to say I'll bringing a butt load of tools and extra parts for the trip tomorrow AM. No cell service up the area we'll be in

 

[78K30]

When I dropped a TBI 4.3 in my tube buggy I cut the o ring fittings off both the pressure and return lines that hooked to the '77 steering box and flared them using the nuts from the old lines. Worked great and is still running 5 years after with no leaks.

 

[skunked]

Thanks for the insight, I ended up doing the same with the two lines I had.

I'm off to the mountains tomorrow.

 

[skunked]

We had a few last minute issues to deal with on Thursday but we worked through most of them. The front drive shaft ended up binding when the truck was sitting at ride height I was pretty bummed not to have 4wd for the trip even though it really wasn't a necessity. I haven't had a chance to look at it closely but I'm thinking I need to swap out the CV for a high angle.

But the truck made it there an back without any real issues and we had a great time up in the Sierra's. I snapped a few pics along the way to share.

First stop to double check the U-Bolts after the 1.5 hr drive.

At the campsite

these with my buddies 72 Blazer with ZZ502 & Hughes 400 on tons

Packed up and leaving

Going out past Bowman

A few issues I ran into that need to be addressed:
1) Power Steering Leak- The custom flare I did on the o-ring line started leaking. To make things easier I think I'm going to buy a power steering pump with a flared output so the whole setup is flared.
2) Both axle seals started puking on the way out so those need to be replaced.
3) Install the Detroit locker, Diff Cover and pinion guard.
4) Fix the rear shocks and get them correctly inboarded
5) Mount the front shocks perpendicular to the front axle
6) Add a switch for the fans

 

[Rabbit916]

Question

Did you end up leaving the 57s Fords in the rear with Kerts kit??? If so did you end up moving your brackets back an inch? Sweet build man I like it.

 

[skunked]

Yes I'm running the 57's with 6" shackles. I have them in the stock location however I know the frames are different so that maybe why I can get away with it. Thanks.

 

[Rabbit916]

Yes I'm running the 57's with 6" shackles. I have them in the stock location however I know the frames are different so that maybe why I can get away with it. Thanks.

Damn you cab only body's! Ha I didn't think the frames ware that different. Welp guess you learn something new everyday.