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86 Coal Burner ...

finally gotta paid membership ...

tired of clicking here and there and not seeing what I'm trying to find ... so 25 is cheap ... for all the knowledge to be gained here ...
 
front 6" springs ...

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need 6" front springs ... mine are saggy , and although it makes for good articulation , they suck otherwise... I've seen the Pro Comp 6" ones at 4 wheel parts , but wondered if those are good enough ? I should also ad I have a very heavy very thick front bumper , that I'll be adding a winch to at some point, so added weight... so I was thinking and heavy duty front 6" springs would be the ticket to handle the extra weight up front ! you can see the sag of the truck in my avatar...

so springs first , then shocks...I was thinking the bounce was the shocks , and it may still be , but the shot springs has gotta lot to do with it i think too ... it's sagging at least 2 inches
 
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Pro comp vs Superlift 6" leafs ?

any difference in the 2 brands for Springs or are like alot of things , made by the same company , with different names on them ?
 
tired of clicking here and there and not seeing what I'm trying to find ... so 25 is cheap ... for all the knowledge to be gained here ...

I don't have answers for your lift spring questions, but welcome to the club!

Life is better when you can see the pictures. :thumb:
 
Muddysub answered...

so Tuff country or ORD for springs.... probably go with the tuffcountry ones ... cause my deal is gonna be very little offroad , just mostly for getting to the camping / fishing spots around NorCal !
 
got superlift M95's and

Ended up getting 4 - M95 Skyjacker Monotube shocks and still waiting on the 6" Superlift front springs and hardware ... should be here this week ... ! got a killer price from Rocky mountain suspension...


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Got 6" superlift springs and the skyjacker M95 monotubes

put on today ,,, the springs were a bitch , well the stabilizer was the biggest bitch , and the guy who owned this before really jack-legged the left lower shock mount ... ( had to use a "hot Wrench" ) to fix that... but all better and back sitting level, and shocks work great ! you can see the sag in my profile pic ... now below its level ... oh and only got the front springs ... the rears are fine and on blocks ... I know , I know ... not the best set up , but fine for now...

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Blocks aren't nearly as bad as people like to make them out to be.

Martin
 
blocks are fine , but ...

I know for better flex, all lift springs instead of blocks are better for articulation ... but I don't care for that , not gonna be hard core crawlin' with this ... it's too long and too heavy for that stuff... this was bought for gettin to camping spots and to fishin' holes... so now it's good ... could replace the steering stabilizer ... and still may , but is fine for now...
 
Actually lift springs on the rear get to be pretty stiff, and aren't all that great.

Axle hop is the downfall of blocks.

Martin
 
ok ...

well you can always split the spring pack and add or remove leafs to accommodate the flex you want ! we used to do that with the yota clan I ran with way back when ... don't know if chevy folks do it though
 
SHackle flip and be done.... I had lift springs, took them out for the shackle flip and its so much nicer to drive.
 
why does my tranny only ...

have 3 speeds ??? ... man one more speed would let it run over 65 .... it shifts through 3 gears in half a block of a normal street ...
 
ummm & and dilemma question ?

they didn't think someone with a 3/4 ton would want to go faster ? or the 6.2 can't handle going that fast ? ... I'd think the motor wouldn't care, it could have 8 speeds and it would run fine and at a lower rpm ... done with that rant ...

now onto ... my latest dilemma.... My oil pressure guage doesn't work now, ( stock one ) , have an aftermarket one on top of the dash, that works fine. The voltage meter stopped working ( but when tested with a dmm ... it reads 14.38 on both batteries, so I know the alt is charging, and odometer never worked, and the fuel gage sows empty , but is full of fuel.... I swapped out the one and only 20 amp fuse for the guages, but to no avail .... so what else can I check ? do I replace the wires for each or find a new panel ? or just get new aftermarket guages, etc. ? Or do I swap out the fuse block ? The odometer I really don't care about, but monitoring the voltage and the fuel are the most important to me !

Any Suggestions ?
 
where...

is it ? do I need to pull the panel to see or is it in the engine bay or right behind the fuse block ? ... there are some guages that work , btw ... speedometer does, etc.
 
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