His intake will NOT bolt up to a set of Vortec heads.
Martin
Martin
I can lend you my engine hoist.I had dinner with him last night and we both concluded that the stock swap is the right choice for me. I appreciate all the info, guys.
Mitch - why should I replace the flex plate? And I'll look into the warranty info on the radiator. Don't know why, but I wouldn't hate replacing the radiator even though this one is fine (i think). Also: Do you have an engine crane I could borrow for this?
I would replace the flex plate because they can Crack around the center for one, and for two, the teeth that the starter engages on can get worn. If after a close inspection yours is in like new condition, you might as well reuse it, but if it has any wear on it, I would replace it. Reason being is if you need to replace it later, you have to pull the engine or Trans to do it.

So I've finally made a decision on what to do about my engine: I'm going to replace it with a stock crate engine. I was given a '91 Toyota pick up, and it's pretty beat up and I want to sell it before I move to Oregon on February 14. Despite it's condition, and my brutal honesty in the advertisement, folks are practically busting down my door to buy it. So I'm going to take that money and use it to buy a crate long block engine.
What kinds of other expenses are involved in this that I may not be considering?
My list so far includes:
Spark plugs
Wires
Cap/Rotor (or should I just get a whole new dizzy?)
Fluids
Radiator hoses (figure now's a good time to start fresh)
Gasket kit for intake manifold
Air filter
Motor mounts
Water pump
What else should I consider?Some of this stuff is included in engine installation kits.
What crate engine company do you recommend? Been looking at Summit Racing, and their website is a bit difficult to navigate to see if I'm looking at a direct replacement or not.... I think this is the right one, but the mention of EFI throws me off. It says it's for '87-'95, so I think it's right.
And I forgot to talk about rebuilding the tbi unit. Definitely worth the time, it's not hard. I tried to replace my injectors with performance ones, but they were faulty, so I reused my stock ones.
https://sdparts.com/details/gm-goodwrench-replacement-engines/12513151
That is what I would look for. A LO5 car replacement engine.
Martin
If it was me I'd go to at least a vortec long block it's the same minus the heads, your intake and everything should bolt up. They are roller cam and 255/330 hp/tq and that's a major improvement.
I can lend you my engine hoist.
Let me know when you need it

I don't know about now but ten or so years ago GM had a bolt in crate motor that made a bit more power than the stock engine. 250hp or so. Wasn't terribly more than the stock crate motor.
If you go through summit you can avoid the cost of freight right?
Assuming you can drive over and pick it up anyway.....
I would replace the flex plate because they can Crack around the center for one, and for two, the teeth that the starter engages on can get worn. If after a close inspection yours is in like new condition, you might as well reuse it, but if it has any wear on it, I would replace it. Reason being is if you need to replace it later, you have to pull the engine or Trans to do it.
The Vortec long block is a good solution. If you don't have to pass emissions.
Martin

I don't care how good "you think" your radiator is I would replace it. Like someone already said lots of places wont warranty an engine unless it is documented that it was replaced at the same time as the engine replacement. I would also replace the serp belt BUT keep your old one as a spare emergency back-up.
My personal preference for plugs are NGK V-power, wires 8MM MSD, cap and rotor with BRASS terminals.
TBI bracketry will not plug and play on Vortec heads. The bolt spacing is different.
Colby, I dont have one, but a buddy does. Im guessing he would let you borrow it but would likely want a deposit on it.
