CK5
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So I finally cut it in half with a air grinder. The cogged gear section that the sliding clutch rides on was completely welded to it's opposing gear. The roller bearings inside were completely untouched, dry even.

So I cut the pieces in half, and turned down both sides down in a lathe. Just enough to clean up the mess. Put it back together and seen that there was no drag or anything between the input and the intermediate shaft. Tossed the bearings back in and bolted the case halves together and it works. Dunno wtf happened but it's smooth now. No grinding, both cases shift in and out of every gear perfect.

Drove it about a mile or so, shifting through all the gears randomly, worked perfectly fine. Both cases were cool to the touch, and went in and out smooth as silk. Stupid, but I'll take it.
 
Wonder if when you assembled it between the bearings, case tolerances and everything it was just too close.

There not a lot of gap there. I can feeler gauge mine tomorrow
 
Something was too tight that's for sure. I'm going to run it around a few more times and drain the fluid and see what comes out.

So far so good though.
 
Do you have the snap ring on the input snout of the 203?
 
That surprised me, but only going a mile is what stopped it from being worse
 
Removing this 203 several times has got me thinking.

I run two crossmembers, why not take advantage of it? On original removal I needed to remove this 203 mount to unbolt the 203 from the tranny after the 205 is off. Well in the field supporting the tranny and stuff is a pain, so I'm cutting a slot in this bracket so I can access all 5 of the 6 bolts on the 80e bracket to remove the entire doubler while leaving the truck basically mobile and drivetrain supported.

IMG_20170927_094414350.jpg
 
Amazing how it only takes a few times pulling one of those to realize how life can be better.

I helped a friend pull his Doubler out. I stole the ideas I liked from his and reengineered some other things to make it better for me.
 
It's exactly true. I want it to be as easily serviceable and/or removable as possible. Where it can be done with very minimal tools, potentially at night, in the field.

I'm painting the 203 mount and crossmember, installing it and then removing the 205 one. I can't remove my PTO cover with the bracket installed. I also feel there may come a day where I may need to investigate inside the 205 to access damage before deciding to pull it. BB/UA thoughts.
 
I call them inspection plates since I'm not cool enough to run a PTO or use plum paint
 
I built mine with the idea I can drop my whole skid/crossmember which has the trans and eco mount attached to it. Meanwhile the drivetrain is supported by the 205 mount in the rear.
 
That's how this is setup.

I don't have a skid yet, but I can remove either mount and the drivetrain will still be supported.

I drove it yesterday without the 203 mount installed and didn't notice anything odd, shifters didn't jerk around or anything much. Guess all poly mounted is doing its job well enough. Transmits enough vibes that's for sure.
 
Yes. DIY mounts under the engine and Energy Suspension poly bushings for the tranny and 205.

It does vibrate now I will say. 2wd LL is nice, I took it out and wheeled around a bit. With the 80e being non e it will run around in OD like it would in 1st and 2wd L. 1st idled up a decent incline no problem. A bit of throttle and it walked right up.

The only complaint I have is I wish I would have looked into a 241-205 instead. 4:1 is nice for sure, but I do feel 1:1 2:1 2.72:1 and 5.insertmath:1 would be more usable overall for 98% of wheeling. Live and learn. It's still awesome with the 5.38s and is plenty low enough for what I will need, but I do enjoy the 241s low range sometimes, just like the 205s, both are super handy for different things.
 
I generally prefer to use the 241 over the 205 low. However leaving the 205 in low and moving the 241 around (as needed) is a lot easier.
 
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