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'91 K5 Four Wheel Camper

This is the build for my 1991 V1500 Blazer, AKA the K5.3. It started out life being sold to the U.S. Government with a 350 TBI/700r4/241 combo. 4 years with a 5.3/700r4 Combo and now moving to an 8.1L Vortec and NV4500 5-speed.
Overview Gallery Discussion
ZooMad75 said:
Quick answer, no I don't like the look. Multiple elements just look like bugs eyes to me. They may be effective but don't do it for me. The ones I bought are Amazon specials too, I just like the look of them better.


I'm on the hunt for LED H4 bulbs. I've come across a few that have 3 or 4 sided elements allowing a 360 degree light pattern which emulates an incandescent H4 bulb pretty well. The two-sided elements do lend to shadows that if not clocked right in the housing could produce less light or just scatter it all over.


I like bright light. The 4 headlight setup could be outshined with a couple of flashlights duct-taped to the hood. Larry's the main guy to credit here for sure. He's done 95% of the work on it and it's amazing what he can do when you let his OCD go wild.


Forgot to mention when I was over at my former tech's place yesterday I picked up some fresh shackles for the front he cut on his plasma table. 3/8" thick stuff at the stock length for a '91. Beefy.
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I knew you would say Larry should get most of the credit. He’s had enough! Lol!

He is quite the perfectionist. His swaps are to behold for sure.
 
I've posted this once before, don't think it was on your thread. I also have a Tacoma and this guy is serious about correctly upgrading the lights. A large factor is the wiring and the way power is provided. He gets serious into proper cutoff lines so you get the most effective light without stray light aiming up into oncoming traffic. It takes some work but you can get light that is bright, wide and far but still not up in oncoming eyes. First page or so is worth it as the tech applies, after that it's a lot of bro's arguing why their blah blah is better than anyone.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/

My take away is that I will always start with wiring upgrades and making sure the original system is getting the best cleanest power supply, then I'll dive into the other items, housings, bulbs, etc...
 
dbcorvairracer said:
I've posted this once before, don't think it was on your thread. I also have a Tacoma and this guy is serious about correctly upgrading the lights. A large factor is the wiring and the way power is provided. He gets serious into proper cutoff lines so you get the most effective light without stray light aiming up into oncoming traffic. It takes some work but you can get light that is bright, wide and far but still not up in oncoming eyes. First page or so is worth it as the tech applies, after that it's a lot of bro's arguing why their blah blah is better than anyone.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-headlight-upgrade-h4-not-led-or-hid.398066/

My take away is that I will always start with wiring upgrades and making sure the original system is getting the best cleanest power supply, then I'll dive into the other items, housings, bulbs, etc...
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When I converted the 4 headlight setup to 2 it was with a heavy-duty relay kit to provide power directly from the battery. It takes the factory wiring to the headlamps out of the equation. The relay kit uses a little thicker gauge wires than the factory too.
 
It's a runner! Went over to Larry's after lunch today to light the great pumpkin off. After setting the power wire for the ecm to the battery, fuel system primed and it fired off on the first turn of the key as we expected. No fussing, just uncorked big block goodness.
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Capt Ron said:
So, drivelines, exhaust, wiring for bu lights and?
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Rear driveshaft was in. We did take it down to the end of Larry's street and back. Didn't rat on it without the exhaust as its a tad on the loud side right now and his new neighbor is quick to complain. But the clutch with the internal slave was buttery smooth and the hydroboost brakes will stop this thing on a dime now.

What's left is putting the front shaft in, exhaust and it will probably come home for me to tie up the loose ends.
 
ZooMad75 said:
It's horrible off of open manifolds at least. Plus the o2 sensors arent even in until the exhaust gets completed. Pure open loop running. It should clean up once we get the exhaust in and reset the fuel trims.
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I remember when I was a kid I thought it sounded cool. Actually, the first 1.5 seconds at fire up still sounds awesome. It’s great for scaring kids and pets when they walk in the garage and you turn the key!!
Engine looks awesome by the way!
 
Fastereddie said:
I remember when I was a kid I thought it sounded cool. Actually, the first 1.5 seconds at fire up still sounds awesome. It’s great for scaring kids and pets when they walk in the garage and you turn the key!!
Engine looks awesome by the way!
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Thanks dude! The fact that it lit off on the first try made the sound the best. Larry's wife and daughter were hanging out in the garage with us prior to firing it up. Larry warned them it was going to get loud really quick and they took off to the house. They could still hear it from inside, just not as well.
 
That is so awesome man! I am a massive jelly doughnut right now!

What are you running for manifolds?
 
Squarebody tbi manifolds. Nothing special. 8.1 manifolds don't fit as tight and would require notching the frame to clear.
 
ZooMad75 said:
Squarebody tbi manifolds. Nothing special. 8.1 manifolds don't fit as tight and would require notching the frame to clear.
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I tried to fit the 8.1's, but knew they would hit. Then I tried the L29 manifolds, and they were better, but still didn't fit.

Just ordered new Dorman manifolds. Never thought to look for the TBI stuff. Thanks for the help!
 
GWeakland620 said:
I tried to fit the 8.1's, but knew they would hit. Then I tried the L29 manifolds, and they were better, but still didn't fit.

Just ordered new Dorman manifolds. Never thought to look for the TBI stuff. Thanks for the help!
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The gmt400 manifolds are close, but don't snug in as tight to the block as the squarebody units do. The drivers side really has the outlet tight to the block which helps clear clutch or trans shifts linkage.
 
GWeakland620 said:
I tried to fit the 8.1's, but knew they would hit. Then I tried the L29 manifolds, and they were better, but still didn't fit.

Just ordered new Dorman manifolds. Never thought to look for the TBI stuff. Thanks for the help!
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Dude, right on page 1 of the 8.1L Resource Page I clearly spelled out ANY BBC manifold would fit an 8.1L :dunno:. If you’re putting an 8.1 in a square, get manifolds for a square with a 454 :waytogo:


- The L18 8.1L has the same foot print as older BBC engines and will bolt in the same as any other older SBC and BBC. In fact, the L18 will accept any exhaust manifold or header from older BBC engines. The starter motor from any older SBC and BBC for use with a 168 tooth flywheel will also fit the L18. Any transmission from an old PowerGlide, TH350, TH400 to Allison, to NV4500, etc. will bolt on to it as well.
 
ZooMad75 said:
The gmt400 manifolds are close, but don't snug in as tight to the block as the squarebody units do. The drivers side really has the outlet tight to the block which helps clear clutch or trans shifts linkage.
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Yeah that sounds better than what I have going on now.
Larry said:
Dude, right on page 1 of the 8.1L Resource Page I clearly spelled out ANY BBC manifold would fit an 8.1L :dunno:. If you’re putting an 8.1 in a square, get manifolds for a square with a 454 :waytogo:


- The L18 8.1L has the same foot print as older BBC engines and will bolt in the same as any other older SBC and BBC. In fact, the L18 will accept any exhaust manifold or header from older BBC engines. The starter motor from any older SBC and BBC for use with a 168 tooth flywheel will also fit the L18. Any transmission from an old PowerGlide, TH350, TH400 to Allison, to NV4500, etc. will bolt on to it as well.
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I should point out that I did not spend money on the other 2 sets lol.
 
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