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Had planned to spend several hours working on my K5 yesterday, but got too busy with work stuff. I also find that when I go out to work on it I ended up hopping around from one little project to the next, often without completing many of them!

Anyway, my first project was to try and drop my new Mishimoto Radiator in place and get it hooked up. I had read part of @Wolfshark post about his experience, so luckily I did have the right upper radiator hose. Thanks for that part number! What I did not read was the rest of his post about how the Mishimoto doesn't really "drop in place", and you have to make some adjustments to the brackets. You can see from the pic how the upper mount near the radiator cap doesn't clear the fill neck, so I'm going to have to cut that. Plus, the lower mount had to be moved over some to fit properly on the bottom. If this radiator was an inch wider and 3/4" to an inch taller it would probably be a "drop in" situation, but it's going to take some reworking of the brackets to make it work.

Can someone please post a pic of how everything is supposed to be plumbed to the radiator? I can obviously figure out the upper and lower main hoses, but what plumbs into the smaller ports on the side tanks? My buddy had removed my radiator years ago, so I don't have anything to go off for reference on where to plug stuff back in. There appear to be 2 ports on the passenger side that are open (and a 3rd that has a plug on it), and one on the driver's side that has a plug on it.

Also got the axle housing blasted out, and bolted on the disc brake conversion brackets for the disc swap on the 14BFF.

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I wired up my lighting and stereo on this truck right after I got it 10+ years ago. At the time, I just wanted it all in and working, so I got a little sloppy with the install. I did do some decent stuff for the stereo install, but there are things I would change. The wiring on the lights was done using some IPF harnesses I had lying around, and so while the wiring is sound, I was very sloppy with the install. I was trying to chase things down the other day to see if I could make sense of what I had done and I'm going to have to spend some time hunting down what harness goes to what light, etc. Thinking about all that got me thinking about creating a much cleaner install by making my own "Trail Rocker" system like Painless offers. It's a slick plug and play system, but I think I can do it for much cheaper than the $400 they want for it. Of course, it might not turn out as nice, or be as weather proof, but whatever.

I know a little bit about wiring, but admit to not being an expert of any kind. I decided to try and map out my plan and throw it up on here to get some input from those of you who know more than I. I plan on using a Blue Sea Systems 6 fused circuit distribution block with cover and negative hook up. I've got a couple of questions though. Anyone's help is appreciated, but @dyeager535 or @Lunatic or @Fordum if any of you get a second and can look at this it would be much appreciated as you all seem to know a thing or two about electrical. Thanks!
  1. Do I have this wired correct per my diagram below? I assumed I need the fused distribution block between the battery and the relays, but then I got to thinking maybe I need the fuses between the relays and the lights. From what I remember it seems like in most light harnesses there is a fused power lead that goes Battery>Fuse holder>Relay>Switch/Light, but I'm having a brain fart on that right now.
  2. Seemingly silly question, but there is only one lead off the relay that goes to the switch. Most switches have two poles (ON/OFF or +/-). I assume the wire to the switch (wire from PIN 86 in my diagram below) provides the power to the switch from the relay, but what returns the signal to the relay to let it know the switch has been turned on?
  3. I plan on running the relay + and - directly to the fused distribution block (assuming I have this diagramed right), and then I was going to get 6 circuit terminal blocks to create a clean, common mounting point to wire the individual leads to/from the lights and switches. Does anyone know about the rating of terminal blocks in terms of amperage? Blue Sea Systems makes them in various circuits (2, 4, 6, etc.), and then they have them rated by amperage (20A, 30A, 65A). Is the amperage per circuit, or per block? In other words, if I'm running two 30A accessories to one block do I need to get a 65A block to accommodate that, or does a 2 circuit 30A block handle that OK?
EDIT: I just found a thread from @mnstrburbon for the Windstar wiring and I think it answered my question about the switches. I've attached Rev1 diagram below which I think explains where the switches get their power from. The wire to the relay from the switch is the one that actually sends the signal to relay that the switch is "on". I need to run power to the switches either from an ACC on port in the fuse box, or straight to the battery if I want to be able to run things with the ignition off. My question is do I need to fuse between the switches and the power source? I would assume so, so it looks like maybe I need to add another 6 circuit distribution block and wire it between the battery and the switches. What amps would I need to run for that block if so? The relay should be taking the brunt of the load, so I would think smaller amp (10-15) would be sufficient, or should I just match them to the ones that are going to be used between the relays and the battery? Is Rev2 the right way to do all of this? Note: the wire to the fuse block for the switches doesn't tie to the 100AMP circuit breaker, it just goes straight to the battery. I'm doing this diagram in Excel, and I can only manipulate the lines between boxes so much.
 

Attachments

  • K5 Power Distribution Flow Chart.pdf
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  • Power Distribution Flow Chart- Rev1.pdf
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  • Power Distribution Flow Chart- Rev2.pdf
    19.4 KB · Views: 0
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Haven't made much progress lately since we got busy again at work. Then I went out of town, and we started building some deer blinds for friends, so unfortunately my K5 hasn't gotten much attention. Plus, my buddy's father passed away, so he hasn't had time to work on my axle. I completely understand that of course. He said he hopes to get them knocked out next week.

We did get the fuel tank dropped, and painted it along with the skid plate, my battery tray, and the side steps. I'm hoping the body shop guy that is friends with one of my guys can come this weekend and knock out the wet sanding and polishing on the paint. I'm leaning towards ditching my custom bumpers idea because 1) I like the look of the factory bumpers on these trucks, and 2) it would be much faster to just bolt them back up! I'm still trying to map out a plan in my head though of how to weld a spare tire carrier swing arm off my rear hitch and make that work with the factory bumper on.

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Truckman4life said:
Check this thread out for stockish/rear tire carrier bumper idea.
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/a-69-build-pics-my-curvy-new-backside.269675/page-125
Click to expand...
Very cool. That's along the lines of what I was thinking, but that is pretty elaborate. Nice work indeed! I was thinking of building some sort of support behind the bumper and either hanging the bumper off the new support, or building the support for the tire carrier into the factory bumper mounts (with bracing of course).
 
Yeah I like factory bumpers also and was at one point thinking of just doing some kind of simple flat rectangular steel bumper and then attaching the factory bumper over it. It would give a solid useful bumper underneath and just use the factory bumper like a "cover" how newer truck bumpers are and then you could run a tire carrier down through the factory bumper into the support behind it. Maybe use 1 1/2" by 4" or 6" rectangular steel and kind of build a simple flat steel bumper and then just mount the factory bumper over it. Might push it out a little but should be able to beef it up and make it look good somehow.
 
I've got some 2"x6" square tubing sitting around, so that might be an option. I don't mind if it pushes the bumper out a bit, but I don't want it hanging way off the back end. I'll take a look at it again and see what I can come up with.
 
I didn't get a chance to look at my fuel tank closely before it got painted. The paint job looks great, the inside of it not so much. The lock ring on the top is bent too. I'm thinking it's probably worth spending the $90-$100 for a new tank. I found one on Amazon for $95. It isn't baffled inside like my stock one appears to be. Does that matter?

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Got the exterior wet sanded, and the trash out of the clear coat. Unfortunately there are some scratches in the base color coat that will NEVER come out. This is the first time my guys had ever done and automotive job, and they didn't realize you shouldn't sand down the primer/sealer. The scratches are actually in the base prime coat under the base, not in the clear. So, it looks good from a distance, but up close you can see the scratches. I'll see how this ends up looking in the sun and decide if it is worth sanding it all down and starting over. Since I'm in the middle of restoring the dually for my wife as well I doubt that will be done for some time. I want to get further along in the dually before I worry about the paint on the K5. For now it still looks TONS better than it did before.

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So, just as a note... The G2 hub bearing kit for the 14b turned out to be pretty much worthless other than the bearings themselves. The race was too tall to use with the two piece seal I got from ORD, and the seal that came with the bearing kit was too small (diameter) to fit into the hub properly. I think the part number was the 9014 on the pic below just as a note for those of you going with G2 in a set of these axles. Maybe mine are off for some reason, but I am going to have to go back with the Timken race (382A) to get the two piece seal to fit (especially since the dang seal that came in the kit was too small).

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Can't recall if the 9014 is for the 14bff or the D60, but it's kind of irrelevant. The seal for the 14b doesn't fit right, and neither does the one for the D60. Had to source that from O'Reilly's tonight, and the one they list is the exact same as the one we pulled out of the D60 hub. I'll try and find the part number and post it tomorrow. Long story short, the hub bearing kits from G2 appear to be worthless other than the bearings themselves.
 
It sucks to find problems like that! You expect a company to have their stuff figured out!
Plus it's frustrating having delays!
 
Recently I had a G2 kit that was mis-boxed, a 14B c-clip kit in a 14BFF box.

You truck is looking nice. I really like the stance and proportions with the 14.50s.
 
Yeah, not that impressed with the G2 hub bearing kits front or rear at this point. Not sure that something was mis-boxed seeing as how both the front and rear have fitment issues with the seals. The delay is definitely frustrating, but it is more that it is eating into my time to get the housings blasted and painted again. I need to load them on my trailer first thing tomorrow morning and I want the dang paint to be dry when I do!

I like the stance too, but if all goes as planned that will change a bit this weekend. Assuming we can get these axles done today (which shouldn't be a problem as the only thing left is the brakes on the D60) then my father-in-law and I should be swapping them on and I'll bolt up those 35s I have.
 
A little behind schedule getting out of town yesterday, but managed to get everything loaded and get on the road at a decent hour. My father-in-law and I unloaded the trailer yesterday evening and got started on the axle swap while my wife and her mother went to the grocery store. Made some decent progress, but only worked for a short time since we were all hungry. Got the rear axle out and the ORD heavy duty rear shackles on. Note: When installing the greasable bushings in the shackles, make sure to lube them up real good. I was test fitting them in the shackle dry, and got them in far enough that they didn't want to come back out. Decided to press on and try and get them in all the way and they fought us pretty good. Spent 10 minutes trying to get them in far enough, and then another 30 trying to actually get them on the truck which included lots of pounding from a sledge hammer to get it in bracket on the frame. On the second one we wisely greased the bushings before pressing them in, and then only took a half dozen blows with the sledge to get it to seat on the bracket on the frame.

Goals for today:
  • Swap on the new springs (2-1/2" Skyjacker front and rear)
  • Install ORD heavy duty front shackles
  • Install the D60/14BFF
  • Install the ORD bolt-in steering box brace
If there is time we will try and make the bracket for my radiator and electric fan and maybe get that wired up. Kind of depends on how much energy we have left!

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