i did it for a specific reason . the back half of the frame just past the gooseneck is welded back on the truck . so i tied it in before this point to help spread out any load .
and also cause i can.
Last edited:
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
budget beater - . . . HOLMES 220 single line boom wrecker install starting ..
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
and also cause i can.
time to get high off paint fumes man 
still have more to do on the back half paint wise .
but the bumper and hitch and gooseneck is all bolted in place for good .
still have more to do on the back half paint wise .
but the bumper and hitch and gooseneck is all bolted in place for good .
didnt want to but kind of had to put it here . oh well will see how long it lasts . trailer plug is in place . round 7 / flat 4 pin .
also got the rest of the rear suspension bolts all swapped from mockup hardware to final use bolts with crimp nuts . so the back end of the truck is basicly done . other than finish the refresh job on the 14ff . and the timbren bump stop brackets i need to make .
also got the rest of the rear suspension bolts all swapped from mockup hardware to final use bolts with crimp nuts . so the back end of the truck is basicly done . other than finish the refresh job on the 14ff . and the timbren bump stop brackets i need to make .
so you got a lifted truck . you wana check your fluid levels . but the truck is just to dam tall and you need help from a ladder / bucket / someones back to stand on . . .
not anymore ! ........ next time your junk yard hunting grab some tools and get your self some g-series full size van dip stick units . this bolt in mod gets you front and center for easy checking of the vitals . even the p/s pump has a remote mount fill can with hose to main pump / tank unit .
oh ya and for a little extra possible help military k30 frame bolt in re-enforcement plates for the firewall drop down area of the frame .
not anymore ! ........ next time your junk yard hunting grab some tools and get your self some g-series full size van dip stick units . this bolt in mod gets you front and center for easy checking of the vitals . even the p/s pump has a remote mount fill can with hose to main pump / tank unit .
oh ya and for a little extra possible help military k30 frame bolt in re-enforcement plates for the firewall drop down area of the frame .
getting stuff done on this SUPER NICE day with good shop doors open temps .
left brace top front 1st & 2nd hole in frame already . just mark drill 3rd and 2 bottom for 3/8" bolts .
right brace top 1st hole only in frame already . mark and drill the rest top and lower .
note lowers might be fun if no real lift springs or stock . i still have to undo the front yet 1 last time so i will drill those holes when springs are out .
left brace top front 1st & 2nd hole in frame already . just mark drill 3rd and 2 bottom for 3/8" bolts .
right brace top 1st hole only in frame already . mark and drill the rest top and lower .
note lowers might be fun if no real lift springs or stock . i still have to undo the front yet 1 last time so i will drill those holes when springs are out .
Apparently the military had issues breaking/bending frames in that location?
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I always wondered what the hell those were for?
they even did a pinion snubber on the front . but i didnt get that piece .
took the crew cab bracket's only mounts off the frame today for the rear cab mount's . you can see old short mounts in 1st pic . and little tie bar they used on them .
swapped in the std cab frame crossmember style unit . dead blow 4lb hammer popped it from the old frame and in place in this frame . punched my holes to 7/16" and used more smooth shank bolts and washers and crimped locknut's to secure it down for good .
someone was lazy the day the truck was built in the frame department . i found what was left of a part's tag made of paper between the frame rail . it basically fell apart as i looked at it . had a metal crimp washer in it that tie wire goes threw when attached to parts .
also found out i do NOT need to modify the t-case crossmember to clear the front shaft . since i used a np208 front flange on my swapped in 32 spline shaft . this pushes the c/v away a bit closer to the axle . and combined with the 2" up rotation on this doubler and the trans/t-case length i can clear no problems it looks like . but i do need to stretch the shaft a bit .
looks like around 36 inch flange to yoke on the front shaft .
swapped in the std cab frame crossmember style unit . dead blow 4lb hammer popped it from the old frame and in place in this frame . punched my holes to 7/16" and used more smooth shank bolts and washers and crimped locknut's to secure it down for good .
someone was lazy the day the truck was built in the frame department . i found what was left of a part's tag made of paper between the frame rail . it basically fell apart as i looked at it . had a metal crimp washer in it that tie wire goes threw when attached to parts .
also found out i do NOT need to modify the t-case crossmember to clear the front shaft . since i used a np208 front flange on my swapped in 32 spline shaft . this pushes the c/v away a bit closer to the axle . and combined with the 2" up rotation on this doubler and the trans/t-case length i can clear no problems it looks like . but i do need to stretch the shaft a bit .
looks like around 36 inch flange to yoke on the front shaft .
Last edited:
ready to burn some wire on this frame tonight .
engine / trans / t-case all out . frame and fish plates preped and clamped in place .
engine / trans / t-case all out . frame and fish plates preped and clamped in place .
shop got warm tonight with the heat i tossed at the wire .
got her done finally i hope . unless i missed something ( and i do ) i should be good for a clean up and paint of the front half of the frame now .
those welds might not be up to 100% specs but welding bottom side almost upside down just sucks . but i THINK they will hold just fine .
and thanks to @SpeedlabDan a few months ago said i should try .o45 wire in the big lincoln power mig 216 . . . that maching works so much better / easy for the big stuff .
got her done finally i hope . unless i missed something ( and i do ) i should be good for a clean up and paint of the front half of the frame now .
those welds might not be up to 100% specs but welding bottom side almost upside down just sucks . but i THINK they will hold just fine .
and thanks to @SpeedlabDan a few months ago said i should try .o45 wire in the big lincoln power mig 216 . . . that maching works so much better / easy for the big stuff .
great day talking with and ordering parts from @Stephen at ORD . 
here is the few pics we talked about .
old style fisher speedcast plow frame . squeezes by leaf springs and sway bar ( not on yet ) . 5/8" bolts to frame . 3 on left and 4 on right side . pics of just side plates no bumper on its missing the bumper brackets the front tabs bolt over to frame . this was just mock up to drill rear holes . and they will NOT clear a cucv grill guard stock . i had to cut / weld the tabs 1" forward on the plow frame .
then diy4x gooseneck hitch setup . 7 - 1/2" bolts per side to the truck frame . she STRONG !
and last pics is some guys bolt on A-frame drop for his lifted truck to get the plow to sit just right .
here is the few pics we talked about .
old style fisher speedcast plow frame . squeezes by leaf springs and sway bar ( not on yet ) . 5/8" bolts to frame . 3 on left and 4 on right side . pics of just side plates no bumper on its missing the bumper brackets the front tabs bolt over to frame . this was just mock up to drill rear holes . and they will NOT clear a cucv grill guard stock . i had to cut / weld the tabs 1" forward on the plow frame .
then diy4x gooseneck hitch setup . 7 - 1/2" bolts per side to the truck frame . she STRONG !
and last pics is some guys bolt on A-frame drop for his lifted truck to get the plow to sit just right .
Man I really want to upgrade my Western to a Fisher , the truck side mount is so much better.
@yellowK20
this is the old style fishers NOT mm1 or mm2 . and they didnt make a lot of mm1 or mm2 truck side units for square bodys . there out there but bring almost new prices .
the 8ft hd / 8ft 6in hd / 9ft hd all use 3/8" thick materiel for the truck side frame work . and the lower beam the plow clips in to has a wider spacing than the 7ft 6in ld and down stuff . and the ld frames were thinner material . and the lower beam is spaced closer on the 2 mount tabs for the pins to clp the plow so you cant mix-n-match . fast way to spot a true un modified unit is 3 trip springs on the plow is ld stuff and 4 trip springs is hd stuff . this tends to be just for my style older stuff . and does work most of the time on newer but not always .
and i have not weighed my truck with plow on yet as many years as i have owned them . but from reading others posts on snow plow sites and old fisher info specs the 8ft hd blade/a-frame unit is 800-825lbs and 9ft hd just over 900-925 lbs . they bite down a lot better and plow up tire packed snow a bit better . plus when you trip a fisher you loose 6" of the snow your pushing over the whole blade trip of others .
this is the old style fishers NOT mm1 or mm2 . and they didnt make a lot of mm1 or mm2 truck side units for square bodys . there out there but bring almost new prices .
the 8ft hd / 8ft 6in hd / 9ft hd all use 3/8" thick materiel for the truck side frame work . and the lower beam the plow clips in to has a wider spacing than the 7ft 6in ld and down stuff . and the ld frames were thinner material . and the lower beam is spaced closer on the 2 mount tabs for the pins to clp the plow so you cant mix-n-match . fast way to spot a true un modified unit is 3 trip springs on the plow is ld stuff and 4 trip springs is hd stuff . this tends to be just for my style older stuff . and does work most of the time on newer but not always .
and i have not weighed my truck with plow on yet as many years as i have owned them . but from reading others posts on snow plow sites and old fisher info specs the 8ft hd blade/a-frame unit is 800-825lbs and 9ft hd just over 900-925 lbs . they bite down a lot better and plow up tire packed snow a bit better . plus when you trip a fisher you loose 6" of the snow your pushing over the whole blade trip of others .
Last edited:
beags86
Eastbound and Down
wait this is getting a plow?
not trying to criticize but isn't this build basically the same thing as your plow machine build?
I feel like they are basically the same truck??
not trying to criticize but isn't this build basically the same thing as your plow machine build?
I feel like they are basically the same truck??
@beags86
no these 2 look kind of close on the outside . . . its whats under the skin that makes them so much more .
quick facts .
budget beater l31 vortec 5.7 / th400 / 203/205 doubler / 4.10 gears / eaton e-locker front if time & g80 rear already . the frame has been cut and welded together from 3 sections . and the body is what it is no repairs or paint .
plow machine 454 full roller or 8.1 vortec / 4l80-e / 203/205 doubler / 5.13 gears / arb lockers both / live hydro 20gpm to feed rear winch and full tow truck boom unit in bed . the body will be 100% redone paint wise .this frame is over 50% original paint on it and virgin un cut condition.
budget beater is replacing rusted out rebuilt 2x from 1979 old k30 . using mostly what i have on hand for the build . no major purchases other than engine that in hind sight i could have done with out but oh well .
no these 2 look kind of close on the outside . . . its whats under the skin that makes them so much more .
quick facts .
budget beater l31 vortec 5.7 / th400 / 203/205 doubler / 4.10 gears / eaton e-locker front if time & g80 rear already . the frame has been cut and welded together from 3 sections . and the body is what it is no repairs or paint .
plow machine 454 full roller or 8.1 vortec / 4l80-e / 203/205 doubler / 5.13 gears / arb lockers both / live hydro 20gpm to feed rear winch and full tow truck boom unit in bed . the body will be 100% redone paint wise .this frame is over 50% original paint on it and virgin un cut condition.
budget beater is replacing rusted out rebuilt 2x from 1979 old k30 . using mostly what i have on hand for the build . no major purchases other than engine that in hind sight i could have done with out but oh well .
beags86
Eastbound and Down
I kind of figured there were some difs, but I didn't want to look, with the amount of work your doing I think you should rust repair/ paint this one... maybe not now, but sometime
,
I don’t really want or like the quick release plow setups , my plow goes on in the fall and stays on until spring .
My current plow is an old 9ft western manual angle , that I converted to power angle and reworked the A-frame to fit the smaller Western pro-plow mounts .
I also have a 7-6” pro plow , but I rarely put that on because some one welded sides on it ( very common up here ) to help with stacking and cleanup . I don’t like it because it doesn’t let you windrow when the snow gets deep.
in my area they dump salt and liquid de-icer bad . and this is just going to be a beater truck for me . i have 3 others to dump crazy money in to . 1 of them is a k30 i have no build thread for and have not touched in over 13 - 14 years and is cleaner then all the rest of these ever dreamed of being to start a project with . .
and yellow k20 my plow does the same on 1 time and off at the end of season . unless some crazy road trip planed .
beags86
Eastbound and Down
Pic?
