I'd have to actually measure to be sure. But if I were to guess, I'd say it'd be an easy 1/4". I know the pan was way heavier than I thought it'd be when I first picked it up, a quality piece.
CK5
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FullSize S10 Bogger/Mud Racer
- Thread starter toomany
- Start date
Got an ATF leak on my list of things to do... Crap sheet metal pan I think is a lot of the leak. Looking for a nice thick aluminum one.
The flange is 3/8" thick. Should seal up nice.
Thanks, appreciate the measurement!
cast pans are a good upgrade I think, then add to the rigidity of the case and cool a bit better than the steel pans do.
Only issue I've seen is they don't hold up to bashing too well!
Only issue I've seen is they don't hold up to bashing too well!
Idealy this one won't see much abuse from rocks/logs. But who knows what you'll find in some of the holes. My harmonic balancer is still in the local pit from when it broke off a couple years ago.
Mounted the passenger seat today and stuck the new pan on.
Same deal as the drivers side. Tried my best to get them the same height, but I think it's slightly lower. I have the cover for it too, just not on. Going to pull the drivers side one off so it doesn't get messed up.
Decided to put the new pan on before it got full of dust of I forget about it and put fluid in the transmission. Because that sounds like something I'd do. I've got the thick aluminum cover for the converter, have to trim it a little bit before I can bolt it on.
Same deal as the drivers side. Tried my best to get them the same height, but I think it's slightly lower. I have the cover for it too, just not on. Going to pull the drivers side one off so it doesn't get messed up.
Decided to put the new pan on before it got full of dust of I forget about it and put fluid in the transmission. Because that sounds like something I'd do. I've got the thick aluminum cover for the converter, have to trim it a little bit before I can bolt it on.
Those seats look painful..
Good progress though.
Good progress though.
I thought that at first too, but they aren't too bad actually. Their worst problem is the little hump near the bottom, I could see that being a problem after awhile of sitting in them. The covers have a tiny amount of pading in them. Time will tell how they do in the long run. I know I won't have any problems with them when I hit them with the power washer.
I wrote that while sitting in my Beard suspension seat in front of my computer
Im a little biased when it comes to seats....
The power washer is a good thought though. A normal seat would be soaked for a week.
Cool little project. In for updates
Another productive evening.
Started by getting my fans mounted, then the transmission cooler. Installed the starter and converter cover. Finished up with starting on the fuel system. Was going to get the transfer case shifter on, but I'm probably going to have to make one so it doesn't have 12'' of throw or end up in the passengers leg.
Fans I'm using. Came from a 94' TransAm I parted out a year or so back. The move some decent air and fit the radiator well. Will probably have one controlled with a manual switch and one off of a temp switch...both through relays. They originally mount with the tabs on the sides, but just drop down/lock on, that wouldn't work for my situation.
Brackets I made up. They attach to the holes in the upper radiator mounts and to the bed floor. The fans drop onto the studs. The brackets help to pull the upper mounts down on to the radiator so it can't bounce loose. The bigger nuts on the top space them down to just above the core. Used a rubber bushing under the bottom against the floor.
Mounted. The studs aren't the same height. Can't remember the exact reason they aren't the same in the car...but I know there was a reason. Should really put my good radiator in before I get too far along. Sort of want to wait till I get a few runs on it....just to be sure it's not going anywhere and the mounts work. Rather have the bad one fall out.
Fans on.
Trans cooler. Had this from my 87 K5 when it was still and automatic. Biggest one Jegs sold at the time. I don't plan on using the one in the radiator. It's currently held on with some zip ties and plumbing strap, need to figure out a good solution still. Also need to run the lines from the transmission yet.
Picked up the two Holley pumps from the Pirate classifieds a few months back. $30 for the pair. Guy said the smaller one (left) worked and the Black one worked but could use a rebuild. I was planning on either a Holley Blue or Black pump, so I jumped on these. Bought a new rotor/vanes/check valve for the Black pump. When I opened it up everything looked great so I only put the new check valve/pressure spring in. If it gives me any problems I'll toss the other new parts at it. Bought the regulator and gauge new.
Was going to stick the regulator on the fender but decided against it. Figured it'd be a good idea to be able to run it without the front clip for tuning. So I put it up on the firewall. Rebent the fuel line. There are two 3/8's lines on the frame I put on there when I originally owned the truck, one feed/one return. I won't be using the return...but it's there if I need it. Need to pick up a fuel filter for the line between the carb/regulator...that's what the two extra clamps are for.
Working on putting together a wiring diagram so I can order up everything for that. I've got a real good idea of what I need, but would like to only place one order.
Started by getting my fans mounted, then the transmission cooler. Installed the starter and converter cover. Finished up with starting on the fuel system. Was going to get the transfer case shifter on, but I'm probably going to have to make one so it doesn't have 12'' of throw or end up in the passengers leg.
Fans I'm using. Came from a 94' TransAm I parted out a year or so back. The move some decent air and fit the radiator well. Will probably have one controlled with a manual switch and one off of a temp switch...both through relays. They originally mount with the tabs on the sides, but just drop down/lock on, that wouldn't work for my situation.
Brackets I made up. They attach to the holes in the upper radiator mounts and to the bed floor. The fans drop onto the studs. The brackets help to pull the upper mounts down on to the radiator so it can't bounce loose. The bigger nuts on the top space them down to just above the core. Used a rubber bushing under the bottom against the floor.
Mounted. The studs aren't the same height. Can't remember the exact reason they aren't the same in the car...but I know there was a reason. Should really put my good radiator in before I get too far along. Sort of want to wait till I get a few runs on it....just to be sure it's not going anywhere and the mounts work. Rather have the bad one fall out.
Fans on.
Trans cooler. Had this from my 87 K5 when it was still and automatic. Biggest one Jegs sold at the time. I don't plan on using the one in the radiator. It's currently held on with some zip ties and plumbing strap, need to figure out a good solution still. Also need to run the lines from the transmission yet.
Picked up the two Holley pumps from the Pirate classifieds a few months back. $30 for the pair. Guy said the smaller one (left) worked and the Black one worked but could use a rebuild. I was planning on either a Holley Blue or Black pump, so I jumped on these. Bought a new rotor/vanes/check valve for the Black pump. When I opened it up everything looked great so I only put the new check valve/pressure spring in. If it gives me any problems I'll toss the other new parts at it. Bought the regulator and gauge new.
Was going to stick the regulator on the fender but decided against it. Figured it'd be a good idea to be able to run it without the front clip for tuning. So I put it up on the firewall. Rebent the fuel line. There are two 3/8's lines on the frame I put on there when I originally owned the truck, one feed/one return. I won't be using the return...but it's there if I need it. Need to pick up a fuel filter for the line between the carb/regulator...that's what the two extra clamps are for.
Working on putting together a wiring diagram so I can order up everything for that. I've got a real good idea of what I need, but would like to only place one order.
Finished the fuel system, plumbed the trans cooler and started on the t-case shifter.
Picked up my fuel filter (actually a 10pack of them), mounted the pump and connected everything. Had to get a couple barb fittings to connect the hose. Stuck the pump on the frame rail, just inside of the passenger side shock. Ideally it'd be bellow the fuel tank but I don't want it that low. The one in my K5 is mounted similar and has no problems. I may go to a fuel cell down the road anyway...so it'll be bellow it then. Only reason for using the K5 tank is because it's there and at the correct end of the truck. I don't need the full capacity of it. Drilled some holes and welded nuts to the inner part of the frame to hold it on. Hooked the ground wire up while I was there too.
Wanted to get a coil of line to do the transmission cooler lines, but the local Napa couldn't get a full roll of 5/16. Instead I had to use two 60" pieces. They turned out to be almost perfect length. Only had to add an 8'' section to each one. Used the barb fittings that came with the cooler to connect the hoses to the lines. No pictures so use your imagination here.
The start of the t-case shifter. Some angle iron, 1 1/4'' bar, 5/8'' solid bar and some 3/4'' tube. The 5/8'' bar fits snugly inside the tube and is the pivot. The angle iron will bolt to the floor of the cab. The two sets of holes in the 1 1/4'' piece are for the lever to bolt on and an extension on the bottom if I need more leverage. I'm not exactly sure how long I'm going to need the lower piece to be, which is why I did it that way. Can just bolt on a longer or shorter piece as needed. Plan is to use part of the factory 205 shifter. Mainly the part where I connects to the tie bar of the shift rails, the mounting bolt on the adapter and part of the stick...cut off. Will connect that to my shifter with a short piece of linkage. I ordered some small heim joints for it today, should be in Tuesday. Basically it'll be like how a 208 shifter is set up, except instead of connecting to the arm on the transfer case...it'll be hooked to the 205's shifter.
Was going to use a through bolt to hold everything together, even drilled the hole through the solid bar for it. I didn't feel the size of it would have been sufficient though. So I welded the solid to the angle iron. There is about 1/16'' clearance between the tube and the angle...just enough for it to feel right.
Progress might slow down a little bit, at least until the weather warms up some as I burned through the last of my wood today. Not a big deal because that gives me time to nail down exactly what I'll need for wiring and get all that on the way.
Picked up my fuel filter (actually a 10pack of them), mounted the pump and connected everything. Had to get a couple barb fittings to connect the hose. Stuck the pump on the frame rail, just inside of the passenger side shock. Ideally it'd be bellow the fuel tank but I don't want it that low. The one in my K5 is mounted similar and has no problems. I may go to a fuel cell down the road anyway...so it'll be bellow it then. Only reason for using the K5 tank is because it's there and at the correct end of the truck. I don't need the full capacity of it. Drilled some holes and welded nuts to the inner part of the frame to hold it on. Hooked the ground wire up while I was there too.
Wanted to get a coil of line to do the transmission cooler lines, but the local Napa couldn't get a full roll of 5/16. Instead I had to use two 60" pieces. They turned out to be almost perfect length. Only had to add an 8'' section to each one. Used the barb fittings that came with the cooler to connect the hoses to the lines. No pictures so use your imagination here.
The start of the t-case shifter. Some angle iron, 1 1/4'' bar, 5/8'' solid bar and some 3/4'' tube. The 5/8'' bar fits snugly inside the tube and is the pivot. The angle iron will bolt to the floor of the cab. The two sets of holes in the 1 1/4'' piece are for the lever to bolt on and an extension on the bottom if I need more leverage. I'm not exactly sure how long I'm going to need the lower piece to be, which is why I did it that way. Can just bolt on a longer or shorter piece as needed. Plan is to use part of the factory 205 shifter. Mainly the part where I connects to the tie bar of the shift rails, the mounting bolt on the adapter and part of the stick...cut off. Will connect that to my shifter with a short piece of linkage. I ordered some small heim joints for it today, should be in Tuesday. Basically it'll be like how a 208 shifter is set up, except instead of connecting to the arm on the transfer case...it'll be hooked to the 205's shifter.
Was going to use a through bolt to hold everything together, even drilled the hole through the solid bar for it. I didn't feel the size of it would have been sufficient though. So I welded the solid to the angle iron. There is about 1/16'' clearance between the tube and the angle...just enough for it to feel right.
Progress might slow down a little bit, at least until the weather warms up some as I burned through the last of my wood today. Not a big deal because that gives me time to nail down exactly what I'll need for wiring and get all that on the way.
Plenty of warm weather here.. 89 today.
23* and they are talking 4" of snow for today. Was in the 60's Thursday.
Parts have been showing up for the past week and I'm waiting on one more order.
First up, a QuickCar switch panel. Was a toss up on either this or a Moroso one. QuickCar won out on price plus had a sixth switch...or so I thought. I had assumed the switch labeled "Ignition" would go to the MSD box, well it goes to the start button. Why they label it as "Ignition", I don't know, but it prevents the start button from being hot at all time. That's not really a bad thing though. Switches feel very high quality and the wiring is nice, very happy with it.
Flaming River disconnect switch. This will kill all the power to the truck and shut it down. Alternator, fuel, MSD...everything.
Couple of relays. Again a toss up between these and some individual ones. Figured these would be easier to work with and cleaner in the end. They are wired to be triggered either by ground or 12v. Can use the extra lead to trigger something else too. Only have the pair right now, one for the fuel pump and one fan. Will pick up another pair (or the bank of four they sell) with my next Summit order.
Bunch of stuff from Waytek. Power/ground junction blocks. Ring/butt terminals and battery cable ends. Shrink wrap for the battery cables and misc connections. I ordered more stuff, mainly to stock up my boxes agian, but this is what is mostly for the truck. Word of caution about ordering from Waytek though. Not sure if it was because I ordered 4' sticks of shrink tube or what...but $36 for shipping blows. They don't tell you how much it is until it ships either. I was expecting a lot, but not that much. Plus side is I ordered on Saturday and had it to my door on Monday.
Battery cable. Actually welding wire. 2/0 gauge. Ebay was the best price I could find, $2.33/ft with free shipping. Picked up 30'. Should be enough to do power and ground cables. If not I can grab a few more feet locally. One issue I've had in the past was problems hot starting, was never quite sure what the actual problem was....but upping the cable size can't hurt anything.
Small heim joints for the transfer case shifter came in. Being fine thread and not wanting to buy one thing from MSC or Grainger and pay their shipping, I decided a long center bolt for a spring pack will work. It's hardened and long enough to cut down. If it's still not stiff enough, I'll sleeve it with some tube.
Also got my pins/bushing for the doors because I'm tired of walking around them afraid I'll knock them over or dent them. Couldn't beat RockAutos price of $1.39 for each set. Even with shipping that was cheaper than I could buy one set for locally. Hoping my order of wire will be in by the weekend, but if it doesn't show I'll still have lots to keep me busy. Might actually be a good thing if I don't get it that way I won't rush anything trying to get it fired up.
First up, a QuickCar switch panel. Was a toss up on either this or a Moroso one. QuickCar won out on price plus had a sixth switch...or so I thought. I had assumed the switch labeled "Ignition" would go to the MSD box, well it goes to the start button. Why they label it as "Ignition", I don't know, but it prevents the start button from being hot at all time. That's not really a bad thing though. Switches feel very high quality and the wiring is nice, very happy with it.
Flaming River disconnect switch. This will kill all the power to the truck and shut it down. Alternator, fuel, MSD...everything.
Couple of relays. Again a toss up between these and some individual ones. Figured these would be easier to work with and cleaner in the end. They are wired to be triggered either by ground or 12v. Can use the extra lead to trigger something else too. Only have the pair right now, one for the fuel pump and one fan. Will pick up another pair (or the bank of four they sell) with my next Summit order.
Bunch of stuff from Waytek. Power/ground junction blocks. Ring/butt terminals and battery cable ends. Shrink wrap for the battery cables and misc connections. I ordered more stuff, mainly to stock up my boxes agian, but this is what is mostly for the truck. Word of caution about ordering from Waytek though. Not sure if it was because I ordered 4' sticks of shrink tube or what...but $36 for shipping blows. They don't tell you how much it is until it ships either. I was expecting a lot, but not that much. Plus side is I ordered on Saturday and had it to my door on Monday.
Battery cable. Actually welding wire. 2/0 gauge. Ebay was the best price I could find, $2.33/ft with free shipping. Picked up 30'. Should be enough to do power and ground cables. If not I can grab a few more feet locally. One issue I've had in the past was problems hot starting, was never quite sure what the actual problem was....but upping the cable size can't hurt anything.
Small heim joints for the transfer case shifter came in. Being fine thread and not wanting to buy one thing from MSC or Grainger and pay their shipping, I decided a long center bolt for a spring pack will work. It's hardened and long enough to cut down. If it's still not stiff enough, I'll sleeve it with some tube.
Also got my pins/bushing for the doors because I'm tired of walking around them afraid I'll knock them over or dent them. Couldn't beat RockAutos price of $1.39 for each set. Even with shipping that was cheaper than I could buy one set for locally. Hoping my order of wire will be in by the weekend, but if it doesn't show I'll still have lots to keep me busy. Might actually be a good thing if I don't get it that way I won't rush anything trying to get it fired up.
Got the doors on, started making a panel for the switches and finished the transfer case shifter.
Had some free time yesterday so I tossed on the doors. Went real quick/easy. At some point in its past the door pins had been replaced. So all I had to do was knock the old bushings out and press the new ones in. Door panels are still on, will pop them off at some point and cut some weight from the doors. Probably take the mirrors off and put a block off plate on since they are directly inline with the tires...don't see them lasting too long.
Started tonight with intentions so do some wiring. To do that I had to get the switches mounted. After realizing I didn't have a whole lot of metal left to work with and that I should probably figure out where the t-case shifter was going to land (had less flexibility on where that goes), decided to do the panel quick and move on. Just some left over sheet metal. Pretty self explanatory, just a rectangle with a hole for the switches to drop through. Plan to mount it between the seats. Nice and close when I'm belted in.
Looking at the transfer case in relation to the floor, the best spot for the shifter was basically right in the middle of the cab. I could have offset it a little to the passenger side, but that would have put it just out of my reach, not that I think I'll be needing to shift it much. After drilling the holes in the floor for the pivot to drop in, whipped out a quick extension for the lower part. Little bit of tube to space out the heim inline with the shifter. Took the stock 205 shifter and cut it off, drilled a hole and added a spacer. Also ground the other side flat for the nut to sit against. Cut down my center bolt for between the to joints. Topped it off with a short handle. May or may not re-do the handle. As it is now, it shifts awesome. Almost seems better than just the factory stick. I think I ended up with a little less throw too. Because of the pivot, the pattern is backwards. 4hi all the way forward, 2wd, neutral then 4lo. Really happy with it for the 1 hour or so I spent on it tonight.
These pictures are from before I cleaned everything up and painted them.
Modified 205 shifter.
Tried to get things in as straight a line as possible. Hard to tell from the angle, but they are inline with each other.
Full forward, 4hi.
All the way back, 4lo.
Going to try getting everything I need tomorrow so I can mount the switches and probably the gauges too.
Had some free time yesterday so I tossed on the doors. Went real quick/easy. At some point in its past the door pins had been replaced. So all I had to do was knock the old bushings out and press the new ones in. Door panels are still on, will pop them off at some point and cut some weight from the doors. Probably take the mirrors off and put a block off plate on since they are directly inline with the tires...don't see them lasting too long.
Started tonight with intentions so do some wiring. To do that I had to get the switches mounted. After realizing I didn't have a whole lot of metal left to work with and that I should probably figure out where the t-case shifter was going to land (had less flexibility on where that goes), decided to do the panel quick and move on. Just some left over sheet metal. Pretty self explanatory, just a rectangle with a hole for the switches to drop through. Plan to mount it between the seats. Nice and close when I'm belted in.
Looking at the transfer case in relation to the floor, the best spot for the shifter was basically right in the middle of the cab. I could have offset it a little to the passenger side, but that would have put it just out of my reach, not that I think I'll be needing to shift it much. After drilling the holes in the floor for the pivot to drop in, whipped out a quick extension for the lower part. Little bit of tube to space out the heim inline with the shifter. Took the stock 205 shifter and cut it off, drilled a hole and added a spacer. Also ground the other side flat for the nut to sit against. Cut down my center bolt for between the to joints. Topped it off with a short handle. May or may not re-do the handle. As it is now, it shifts awesome. Almost seems better than just the factory stick. I think I ended up with a little less throw too. Because of the pivot, the pattern is backwards. 4hi all the way forward, 2wd, neutral then 4lo. Really happy with it for the 1 hour or so I spent on it tonight.
These pictures are from before I cleaned everything up and painted them.
Modified 205 shifter.
Tried to get things in as straight a line as possible. Hard to tell from the angle, but they are inline with each other.
Full forward, 4hi.
All the way back, 4lo.
Going to try getting everything I need tomorrow so I can mount the switches and probably the gauges too.
Got a decent start on mounting the switches. Spent what seemed like hours trying to figure out the best place for them. Pretty much had to just start building something so I could make up my mind. Stuck them between the seats on a slight angle. Have to finish the back legs still, but the bulk of the work is done. They look off-center/lopsided in the picture...but they are actually straight and even.
When I ran out of material for the switches I moved on the getting an idea for the gauges. Real simple dash. Probably will do one more cardboard template just to refine the shape before cutting it out of metal. Tach will be straight ahead of the steering wheel with the others off to the left. Will need to track down a couple hole saws when I get around to mounting everything.
When I ran out of material for the switches I moved on the getting an idea for the gauges. Real simple dash. Probably will do one more cardboard template just to refine the shape before cutting it out of metal. Tach will be straight ahead of the steering wheel with the others off to the left. Will need to track down a couple hole saws when I get around to mounting everything.
Finished mounting the switches today. Only took a hour or so to get the two rear legs done and everything painted. Pictures are before I took it apart and cleaned/painted.
Looking really good sir. I love how you are knocking this stuff out.
