Thanks. Now that the weather is nice again I can get out there a little bit each night.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
FullSize S10 Bogger/Mud Racer
- Thread starter toomany
- Start date
Thanks. Now that the weather is nice again I can get out there a little bit each night.
Assembled the battery cables tonight. All six of them. Because the ground side is just as important as the positive side, everything is done with the 2/0. The hot cables are, battery to cutoff switch, switch to starter, switch to positive distribution block. Stuck some red shrink wrap along the lengths of these. I'm a firm believer in as many grounds as possible. Those cables are, battery to motor, battery to frame and battery to negative distribution block. I have a ground braided ground strap I might run from the body to the frame too, but shouldn't need it because everything in the cab will ground through the distribution block.
Two holes on the left are where the positive and negative cables come into the cab. Two on the right are where the positive goes out and "S" terminal wire for the starter. Will probably use the smaller one for other wires too.
Two holes on the left are where the positive and negative cables come into the cab. Two on the right are where the positive goes out and "S" terminal wire for the starter. Will probably use the smaller one for other wires too.
So many people neglect the grounds. Good on ya!
some sick creations going on here!!!!!!!!
Ran all my heavy cable and the wire off the starter button today. Tested things out with a battery, motor spins over stupid fast now...guess my cables were undersized before.
Will get the dash/gauges mounted before I countinue with the wiring.
Apparently I never got my wire ordered. Don't know what happened there, maybe I closed out the window too soon. So I'll be sure to get that on it's way soon.
Will get the dash/gauges mounted before I countinue with the wiring.
Apparently I never got my wire ordered. Don't know what happened there, maybe I closed out the window too soon. So I'll be sure to get that on it's way soon.
fyi not sure if you know about it... but there is a website that has awesome prices and parts...
www.waytekwire.com
www.waytekwire.com
That's where I get a lot of my wiring supplies. Think I mentioned it a page back. My only problem with them was the shipping charges. They don't tell you on the website how much shipping is. Not sure if it was because I ordered the 4' sticks of heat shrink, but it cost like $32 for shipping. Which just seems high for two boxes that weighed maybe 20lbs for the pair. I did order on Saturday and had it Monday, so that could have been it too.
Their parts are quality though. Everything I've ever gotten from them has been top notch.
Their customer service rocks as well. I ordered some 5 pin high amp relay bases awhile back and they sent me nine four pin ones and one five pin. All it took was a call and I had 10 new five pin bases on the way.
Got a decent start on the gauges today. Cut the panel, got it mounted and started drilling holes. Panel was easy to do after I got it nailed down with the cardboard, simple shape with one bend. Added a could tabs along the bottom, stuck a couple stand-offs on the cab under the windshield. Measured for the gauges and drilled pilot holes. Used a jig saw to cut out the big hole for the tach. My 2" hole saw sucks so I picked up a new one when I went into town earlier, will drill those tomorrow.
Some leftover tube with nuts welded into the end on the top. For the bottom I used the two studs that hold the steering column and the nut welded to the support brace. I may have to add a third along the top if the weight of the gauges makes it flex any. Or some kind of backbone on the panel to stiffen it up.
Back of the panel. Need to add two tabs for the tach to clamp to. Will do that tomorrow too probably.
What it looks like in the truck. I drew/measured for 4 gauges on the side, but will only have three to start with. I dimpled where the center of the fourth is with a drill bit so it'll be easy to drill after I paint it.
View from the drivers seat. Tach has a light press fit in the hole, will add two tabs on the back and secure it with a hose clamp. Have room on the right for a couple more gauges if I should find a need for them. Plenty of room else where on there to add warning lights and a switch to turn the dash/tail lights on.
Some leftover tube with nuts welded into the end on the top. For the bottom I used the two studs that hold the steering column and the nut welded to the support brace. I may have to add a third along the top if the weight of the gauges makes it flex any. Or some kind of backbone on the panel to stiffen it up.
Back of the panel. Need to add two tabs for the tach to clamp to. Will do that tomorrow too probably.
What it looks like in the truck. I drew/measured for 4 gauges on the side, but will only have three to start with. I dimpled where the center of the fourth is with a drill bit so it'll be easy to drill after I paint it.
View from the drivers seat. Tach has a light press fit in the hole, will add two tabs on the back and secure it with a hose clamp. Have room on the right for a couple more gauges if I should find a need for them. Plenty of room else where on there to add warning lights and a switch to turn the dash/tail lights on.
What did you use to bend that plate?
Nothing really. Once I had my measurments down I scored it with the grinder, clamped it to the bench (score on the bottom) at the line and bent it down. I did put a piece of angle iron on the top of it to keep even presure across it. I don't think I'll need them, but I'll put a couple tack welds on the bend line.
Pretty much everything I've bent on this thing has been done that way. I find it's the easiest way of doing it without a brake. The smaller pieces I do in the vice...but same concept.
Finished up the dash. New hole saw went right through it like nothing. Added a couple tabs on the back to hold the tach in. Cleaned it up with some brake clean and shot some paint on it, no finished pictures yet because it's still drying.
Backside.
"Loaded" Backside.
What it looks like mounted up.
Up next I think I'll get the MSD parts mounted then I can start on the wiring.
Backside.
"Loaded" Backside.
What it looks like mounted up.
Up next I think I'll get the MSD parts mounted then I can start on the wiring.
I picked up a 6AL-2 and retard box a couple months back.
Wednesday night I put the painted gauge panel back together and into the truck. Started filling the radiator up since I had the temp sender in the cylinder head, all was going good until I was almost to the top. Have a few drips coming from the core. I knew I should have swapped the other one in. Good news is my other coolant pipe is holding water just fine. Hooked up the oil pressure line too. After that I put my new coil in the distributor and routed my plug wires. Also took out the HEI module/condenser, put in the MSD pickup wires. I'll deal with the leaky radiator soon.
Tonight was a very productive night. Started by getting a panel together to mount the ignition stuff. Painted it, then promptly screwed up the paint. Mounted the boxes and started wiring them. Tested for spark (had great spark) and test fired it off of some starting fluid.
Same deal as the gauges, but with a little bit thicker metal. Used the pinch weld under the windshield for the top row of bolts, the steering column brace on the bottom left and a tube standoff for the lower right. At this point I had put the boxes on there once and thought that was good. Had I thought about it,,,,I would have wired them up first, taken it apart then painted it. I put some decent scratches in the paint when drilling for the grommets.
Everything wired up. The grommet on the left has the wires that come out from the box separate, blue wire for the lower rev limit trigger, white wire for the 2step box and a white/blue wire that I'm not using. Grommet on the right is the violet and green wires for the pickup coil. Each box has their own, but only one set is needed. The 2step box is triggered by the white wire from the big box. If for some reason I need to bypass/eliminate it, I can just unplug the trigger wire and move the violet/green wire to the other box. Pink wire from the small box is the trigger for the timing retard, that is tied out of the way in back till I need it.
Tomorrow I'll get the fuel pump and fans going and hopefully get some run time on the motor.
Tonight was a very productive night. Started by getting a panel together to mount the ignition stuff. Painted it, then promptly screwed up the paint. Mounted the boxes and started wiring them. Tested for spark (had great spark) and test fired it off of some starting fluid.
Same deal as the gauges, but with a little bit thicker metal. Used the pinch weld under the windshield for the top row of bolts, the steering column brace on the bottom left and a tube standoff for the lower right. At this point I had put the boxes on there once and thought that was good. Had I thought about it,,,,I would have wired them up first, taken it apart then painted it. I put some decent scratches in the paint when drilling for the grommets.
Everything wired up. The grommet on the left has the wires that come out from the box separate, blue wire for the lower rev limit trigger, white wire for the 2step box and a white/blue wire that I'm not using. Grommet on the right is the violet and green wires for the pickup coil. Each box has their own, but only one set is needed. The 2step box is triggered by the white wire from the big box. If for some reason I need to bypass/eliminate it, I can just unplug the trigger wire and move the violet/green wire to the other box. Pink wire from the small box is the trigger for the timing retard, that is tied out of the way in back till I need it.
Tomorrow I'll get the fuel pump and fans going and hopefully get some run time on the motor.
Mounted up the relays, wired them, cleaned up rest of the wiring, ran the motor in some and started replacing the radiator. Didn't take any pictures...so use your imagination.
Started this afternoon by getting the relays hung up. Stuck them on the back wall of the cab behind the drivers seat. They are supposed to be water proof, but I still didn't wan't them near the floor where they have a chance to get wet. Wiring was pretty straight forward, fuel pump off one, fan on the other. Will pick up another couple for the other fan.
Straightened out the wiring running from the ignition box to the switch panel. Also wired the coil into the battery disconnect so it'll ground that when you shut it off (keeps it from running on voltage from the alternator).
Had the motor running for about an hour. Set the timing and adjusted the idle mixture screws. Once I get the driveshafts back in, and a shifter, I'll fine tune it. Shouldn't need much as it was running pretty strong in the K5. Topped off the transmission fluid and power steering. Need to fill the transfer case yet.
Pulled the radiator out. Once the cooling system built pressure it started squirting from the holes. Dug through my pile of radiators and found the best one. I thought I had another that was the same width (I do...but it looked questionable), but the one I settled on was an inch or so narrower. Had to move one of the lower mounts on the box, the upper I'll be able to add a side piece to make it work. I should be able to get it back into the truck tomorrow and the system filled back up.
Did manage to get a short video of it running. I don't know if it's Photobucket or what...but the quality turned out horrible. On my phone it looks alright, once I uploaded it is when it went to crap.
http://vid1050.photobucket.com/albums/s409/toomany2yz/20160430_182111_zps6doayom4.mp4
I need to start making a list of all the little things that need to be done and go over all the fasteners. There is a bog May 14th that I want to go to for a shake down run, so that's my deadline. The major hurdle of getting it running was accomplished, moving under it's own power is next.
Started this afternoon by getting the relays hung up. Stuck them on the back wall of the cab behind the drivers seat. They are supposed to be water proof, but I still didn't wan't them near the floor where they have a chance to get wet. Wiring was pretty straight forward, fuel pump off one, fan on the other. Will pick up another couple for the other fan.
Straightened out the wiring running from the ignition box to the switch panel. Also wired the coil into the battery disconnect so it'll ground that when you shut it off (keeps it from running on voltage from the alternator).
Had the motor running for about an hour. Set the timing and adjusted the idle mixture screws. Once I get the driveshafts back in, and a shifter, I'll fine tune it. Shouldn't need much as it was running pretty strong in the K5. Topped off the transmission fluid and power steering. Need to fill the transfer case yet.
Pulled the radiator out. Once the cooling system built pressure it started squirting from the holes. Dug through my pile of radiators and found the best one. I thought I had another that was the same width (I do...but it looked questionable), but the one I settled on was an inch or so narrower. Had to move one of the lower mounts on the box, the upper I'll be able to add a side piece to make it work. I should be able to get it back into the truck tomorrow and the system filled back up.
Did manage to get a short video of it running. I don't know if it's Photobucket or what...but the quality turned out horrible. On my phone it looks alright, once I uploaded it is when it went to crap.
http://vid1050.photobucket.com/albums/s409/toomany2yz/20160430_182111_zps6doayom4.mp4
I need to start making a list of all the little things that need to be done and go over all the fasteners. There is a bog May 14th that I want to go to for a shake down run, so that's my deadline. The major hurdle of getting it running was accomplished, moving under it's own power is next.
Looks ok to me, may have been scaled down in pixel size, but seems clear enough. Sounds pretty angry.
It runs pretty strong for what it is. Basically a high rpm top end on a stock short block. I was told the bottom end had been gone through...and someone has been in there before. Heads/intake/cam were from my 400 that I snapped the crank off of. Being a stock shortblock, compression ended up high, just under 13:1. I think it could use some more cam to take advantage of the heads though. I'll run it till it pops the get going on the BBC.
Didn't get out to the shop today. Wife had plans for me after I got out of work. Tuesday might be the next chance I have to get some work done. Should be able to order my shifter tomorrow.
The heads have like 48cc chambers. Stock heads I took off were 76's. They are are set of aluminum Bowtie heads that I picked up from one of my circle track friends. They started out with 53cc chambers, but have been decked and some port work done...along with larger valves.
That number was what I came up with for the static compression. Once you factor in the cam, the dynamic compression comes in lower. Which is one of the only reasons I think it's still alive.
When I say shortblock, I'm talking stock crank, rods and pistons. The had been surfaced once when rebuilt suposedly, so the pistons aren't that far in the hole.
